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Discussion starter · #21 ·
As for the foam gun, I hope you bought the half gallon size if you plan to run the gun on full foam because you'll empty the quart sized version rather quickly. Also, you want the Foamaster by Gilmour, not the Foamaster II. The original version was made out of brass and plastic (much better quality), while the second version is all plastic and the foam adjustment mechanism sucks. Here's the original .



As for you inquiry about corners, here's what I want you to do when you look at your car in the morning. Look at every edge on the car and tell me if you can see one swirl. ;)
 
After polishing and fixing up the paint, if you were to use a sealant and let it cure for a day or two if it requires, would you then wash the car after the curing time is up? I'm assuming that even though my car would be curing in a garage undisturbed, a fair amount of dust may collect on it during the curing process so I'd want to wash that off before putting a layer of wax over the sealant?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
After polishing and fixing up the paint, if you were to use a sealant and let it cure for a day or two if it requires, would you then wash the car after the curing time is up? I'm assuming that even though my car would be curing in a garage undisturbed, a fair amount of dust may collect on it during the curing process so I'd want to wash that off before putting a layer of wax over the sealant?
You sir are a thinking man. Kudos to you for allowing logic to rule your thinking. :bigthumb:

You wouldn't WASH it because you haven't driven it and it did nothing but sit in your garage and collect a very small amount of dust (unless your car is parked in a dusty and drafty old barn). What you would do is RINSE the entire car down and then BLOW DRY it. At that point, you can then wipe the entire car down with a quick detailer to address any excess sealant that may be present. You will see it if there is as it will appear as splotchy looking areas on your paint. This comes from applying too much sealant on a given area. That's why sealants are applied in thin, even coats.

One thing about doing this rinse only process. You can do this only if your garage does not see extreme temperature fluctuations during the time you're allowing your sealant to cure. If your garage goes from 90 degrees to 30 degrees overnight, the dust will bond to the paint. The same will happen if you leave the car outdoors overnight. If dew is created on the grass in your yard, then it is also created on your car parked in your driveway. You can't wipe on a car once that happens because the dust is now matted to your clear coat. That car must be washed. The same will happen inside your garage if the temperature fluctuation is extreme. Like I said before, this is usually only an issue with someone parking in a drafty old barn, or if you allow the car to sit for 4-5 days undisturbed and where the temperature flux is extreme.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
i bought the gilmour gun you suggested, i love it, actually i havent gone wrong with anything you suggested, i guess i need to get some garry deans infinite use auto juice, and i think im set.
Infinite Use Detail Juice. It's not so much about the detail spray itself as it is about the freakin' bargain. You can't beat it.
 
Junkman, thanks for the great and informative videos. I'm a complete novice when it comes to using a polisher, and was scared to even attempt it until I saw your videos. My buddies would tell me horror stories, about how they burnt their paint, using polisher. Thanks to you, I'm looking for a good deal on a PC 7424, and going to attempt to detail my, new to me 2006 sxt. My wife took it out the other day, and got scratches on the back fender, so I've been really watching, and re-watching your videos. I don't want to make things worse. My only problem is I don't have a garage or access to a garage, so all my work would have to be outside. Will I be fighting a losing battle, since I can't do the work indoors?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
... Will I be fighting a losing battle, since I can't do the work indoors?
If you work in direct sunlight OR the surface of the car is warm, you will be creating a dusting mess and the polishes will not perform the way they should. You are NOT going to damage anything, just waste money and create a dusty mess. My suggestion? Rent a 24-hour access storage place for your car for a month and bring some lighting. Problem solved.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but don't think the wife would go for something like that. I was thinking of doing what your were saying in your video, wash it in the morning when its cool and not sunny. Here is what I was thinking let me know if u feel this would work out.
I would only wash 1 section, a 2ftx2ft section. Then dry it, and work on polishing a 1x1 section, that way if i go over the 1x1 when polishing it will still be clean and won't grind any dirt in the paint. If I take my time and just do a little section at a time would this work. I know it will take forever, but since I don't have access to a garage, probably my only option. Of course I can always try to convince the wife, and do what you suggest, but she is all ready complaining, I'm spending too much on detailing stuff, LOL. Women just don't understand, boys and our toys.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
If you are going to do it that way then you need to wash an entire panel and the panels adjacent to each side of the one you are working on. The LAST thing you want to do is overlap your buffing onto a dirty panel. Plus, you don't want your towels to be wiping on an adjacent dirty panel, both of which are going to happen.

You better plan on being up BEFORE the crack of dawn if you're doing this outside because it takes NO time for the car's surface to heat up.
 
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