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Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

32K views 73 replies 18 participants last post by  Junkman2008 
#1 · (Edited)
That's right boys and girls, The Junkman has went and made paint correction so easy, a caveman could do it! In the following video, I cover the entire process from start to finish. The first two sections of are worth their weight in gold for the information alone. I don't even start working on the paint until the third section but the amount of information I cover in the first two sections is priceless. Do NOT skip through the first part of this video!

If you have ever been apprehensive about using a machine to rid your paint of scratches and swirls, you will definitely not be worried after watching this video series. I break it down to a level where a 10 year old can watch these videos and start fixing paint. The supplies and equipment that I use are readily available in the USA and abroad (for the most part). If you have a serious desire to finally fix your paint and about 1 hour and 54 minutes, then this video is totally for you. After you have watched this video, you will not believe how easy I have made this.

So sit back and get out some popcorn, kick up your feet and enjoy. The Junkman is about to burst onto your screen in a way that only the Junkman can! 👍

Here are your before and after shots, which won't make a lot of sense until you have watched the videos, especially when you see how the number "2" ended up in the paint!


BEFORE...

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AFTER!

298561







Section 1 - Hey boys and girls! Finally, a video series that takes the process of paint correction from the beginning to the end (from claying to waxing). Although I do not apply any wax at the end, I cover everything else in detail. This series is 1 hour and 54 minutes long so that should give you an idea as to how much detail I go into.

In this first video, I talk in detail about exactly what paint correction is. I also go into detail about the polishing technique you should use as well as the best product on the market that you should buy. I cover other topics too so just sit back and kick up your feet. This video is 15 minutes and 7 seconds long.


Section 2 - In this video, I go into detail about exactly what I use to remove the paint damage within this video series. I name and visually show every piece of equipment as well as all of the products necessary to do paint correction. In some cases, I even offer up a location where you can find the products that I use. I talk about why I chose to use the products that I use as well as what I don't use. If you want a list of these items, WATCH THIS VIDEO.​


Section 3 - Okay, in this video I identify the damage that we are going to repair. I even go as far to create some damage just to ensure that my paint will be more jacked up than your paint. I then go into detail about claying, and what it does for your finish. Last of all, I show how to assemble the PC-7424XP so that we can start the polishing process. The video following this video will be in high definition so that you can clearly see the damage and the effectiveness of my repair.


Section 4 - Because I wanted the viewers of this video to be able to see the results of the work that I did in high detail, I uploaded this video in high definition. That took 12 hours!

In this video, I actually go into the proper technique for polishing with the PC-7424XP, showing me using the machine properly. I show the polishes that I use, the pads that each polish is used on, how to work the polisher and how much polish should be used. I also talk about the importance of not using too much polish and clogging up the pores in the pads, which makes the whole process worthless. I go into the discussion of how long to work a polish and when to stop (after a polish flashes). I show which order the polishes are used and explain why you use them in that order.

One thing that I stress in this video is the importance of a solid technique. I talk about and show the technique that I use, as well as how to ensure that you are developing a solid technique. As I say often in this video series, "Technique trumps product 365, 24/7. No matter who's polishes you decide to use, none of them will work worth a darn if your technique sucks. Technique rules!


Conclusion - I recap my process and allow you into my mindset concerning paint correction and caring for your paint.​



The Junkman 😉👍
 
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#2 ·
"Like Charles Barkley on a golf course". That's some funny **** man!

I usually see you talking about Adam's polishes, so where would the M105 and M205 fit in relative to them? Are they coarser?

Also, is there any maintenance that you can do to the pads to make them last longer?

As always, I love your videos.
 
#3 ·
"Like Charles Barkley on a golf course". That's some funny **** man!
Man, if you look at him on You Tube, you'll bust some stitches laughing! :cowsmile:

I usually see you talking about Adam's polishes, so where would the M105 and M205 fit in relative to them? Are they coarser?
M105 would be equivalent to SSR. M205 would be equivalent to FMP. The difference with the Meguiar's products is that M105 finishes down well enough to allow M205 to follow. There is no need for a middle polish like you would have to use with Adam's (SHR)

Also, is there any maintenance that you can do to the pads to make them last longer?

As always, I love your videos.
Yes. Wash them as soon as you're done with them and use my technique. I never wear out my pads. My technique is the reason.
 
#5 ·
#13 ·
Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!



Got them today Junk!

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#11 · (Edited)
Junkman Thanks for being here for all the guys and gals who want to keep their Chargers looking there best. I know that you have a lot of followers..

Big John:beerchug:

PS now here is a little treat for you Pontiac man:bigthumb:
 

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#12 ·
That thing is just major bad azz. When I hear the letters GTO, that's the picture that comes to my mind. That crap they built a few years ago should have had a different name instead of muddying up the name of the legend.

You should have a plaque that you put beside that ride that states:

1966 GTO - When you want to drink gas, drink it like a man." :rocker:
 
#15 ·
Re: Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!



O yea! Shes the softest and most plush BLONDE ever! The towel of course :p

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#17 ·
Great videos! Thanks!
 
#18 ·
Thank you so much for those videos, those are amazing, and very fun to watch too man. So much information, i took down 2 pages of notes while watching those. Also just a heads up the borderless blondes are back in stock as of this morning that i saw.

I cant wait for the first time that i get to try this on my daily driver and perfect it before i try it in the Charger.

Again thank you for those videos.
 
#19 ·
The Borderless Blonds have been back in stock for a few weeks now. :cowsmile:

If you took two pages of notes, you are way ahead of the game. Before you start this, watch the videos again and look at how much stuff you missed. Trust me, everyone does. Once you've done that, PM me and I will give you my number so that you can call me if you have any others questions after the second time through those videos. I go out of my way to help people who take notes. :beerchug:
 
#20 ·
Will do, had a late day at work today so most likely i will get to go over them again either tomorrow or sometime this weekend.

One thing i know you most likely covered but that i just missed is when going over corners and edges. So i will be sure to catch that this time around

Also forgot to mention i also watched the 2 Bucket washes videos, i now have the foam gun on its way. Never even knew about those till i watched the video and did some research today on them.

Cant wait till i get a chance to see what your advice can help me do though on my 2000 Monte Carlo with black paint.
 
#21 ·
As for the foam gun, I hope you bought the half gallon size if you plan to run the gun on full foam because you'll empty the quart sized version rather quickly. Also, you want the Foamaster by Gilmour, not the Foamaster II. The original version was made out of brass and plastic (much better quality), while the second version is all plastic and the foam adjustment mechanism sucks. Here's the original .



As for you inquiry about corners, here's what I want you to do when you look at your car in the morning. Look at every edge on the car and tell me if you can see one swirl. ;)
 
#22 ·
After polishing and fixing up the paint, if you were to use a sealant and let it cure for a day or two if it requires, would you then wash the car after the curing time is up? I'm assuming that even though my car would be curing in a garage undisturbed, a fair amount of dust may collect on it during the curing process so I'd want to wash that off before putting a layer of wax over the sealant?
 
#23 ·
You sir are a thinking man. Kudos to you for allowing logic to rule your thinking. :bigthumb:

You wouldn't WASH it because you haven't driven it and it did nothing but sit in your garage and collect a very small amount of dust (unless your car is parked in a dusty and drafty old barn). What you would do is RINSE the entire car down and then BLOW DRY it. At that point, you can then wipe the entire car down with a quick detailer to address any excess sealant that may be present. You will see it if there is as it will appear as splotchy looking areas on your paint. This comes from applying too much sealant on a given area. That's why sealants are applied in thin, even coats.

One thing about doing this rinse only process. You can do this only if your garage does not see extreme temperature fluctuations during the time you're allowing your sealant to cure. If your garage goes from 90 degrees to 30 degrees overnight, the dust will bond to the paint. The same will happen if you leave the car outdoors overnight. If dew is created on the grass in your yard, then it is also created on your car parked in your driveway. You can't wipe on a car once that happens because the dust is now matted to your clear coat. That car must be washed. The same will happen inside your garage if the temperature fluctuation is extreme. Like I said before, this is usually only an issue with someone parking in a drafty old barn, or if you allow the car to sit for 4-5 days undisturbed and where the temperature flux is extreme.
 
#35 ·
Junkman, thanks for the great and informative videos. I'm a complete novice when it comes to using a polisher, and was scared to even attempt it until I saw your videos. My buddies would tell me horror stories, about how they burnt their paint, using polisher. Thanks to you, I'm looking for a good deal on a PC 7424, and going to attempt to detail my, new to me 2006 sxt. My wife took it out the other day, and got scratches on the back fender, so I've been really watching, and re-watching your videos. I don't want to make things worse. My only problem is I don't have a garage or access to a garage, so all my work would have to be outside. Will I be fighting a losing battle, since I can't do the work indoors?
 
#36 ·
... Will I be fighting a losing battle, since I can't do the work indoors?
If you work in direct sunlight OR the surface of the car is warm, you will be creating a dusting mess and the polishes will not perform the way they should. You are NOT going to damage anything, just waste money and create a dusty mess. My suggestion? Rent a 24-hour access storage place for your car for a month and bring some lighting. Problem solved.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for the suggestion, but don't think the wife would go for something like that. I was thinking of doing what your were saying in your video, wash it in the morning when its cool and not sunny. Here is what I was thinking let me know if u feel this would work out.
I would only wash 1 section, a 2ftx2ft section. Then dry it, and work on polishing a 1x1 section, that way if i go over the 1x1 when polishing it will still be clean and won't grind any dirt in the paint. If I take my time and just do a little section at a time would this work. I know it will take forever, but since I don't have access to a garage, probably my only option. Of course I can always try to convince the wife, and do what you suggest, but she is all ready complaining, I'm spending too much on detailing stuff, LOL. Women just don't understand, boys and our toys.
 
#38 ·
If you are going to do it that way then you need to wash an entire panel and the panels adjacent to each side of the one you are working on. The LAST thing you want to do is overlap your buffing onto a dirty panel. Plus, you don't want your towels to be wiping on an adjacent dirty panel, both of which are going to happen.

You better plan on being up BEFORE the crack of dawn if you're doing this outside because it takes NO time for the car's surface to heat up.
 
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