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Discussion Starter #1
I was just looking around on the inner Webs and stumbled onto the JLT Intake system. I watched the Install video and that might be the nicest Built intake I I've seen.
I'm a K&N kinda guy, I grew up with them, had them on ALL my performance vehicles over the years, never had a single issue with them. BUT this JLT looks incredible. I love the details which is what is selling me. The Choice of Red or Blue Filter, the wire rubber grommet, the rubber tube hose clamp.
The ease of install is probably the best I've seen.

Anyone have one? Comments?
 

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I have it on my 5.7 and it's fantastic. The difference in throttle response over stock is crazy. My car feels like it's in Sport Mode when it's not. When Sport Mode is engaged it feels like a different car. The install was easy. It looks great. I couldn't be happier.

Get ready for all the comments that it's a waste of money and it's a "Hot" air intake. Check out the dyno videos on YouTube. Those don't lie.
 
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I have had the JLT stage 1 on my Scat for about 8 months now. I think it does it job once your driving as it stays 10-13 degrees above current temps of the day. I also live in California. Disgusting I know 😣🤣. But on the idling to long I’ve seen my temps rise up to 203* that’s typically bc these 392’s run hot as hell. Personally will recommend the legmaker instead. Ive seen its performance and it also is made out of full carbon fiber ! aFE stage 2 is also up there beating the hellcat intake IMO. By beating I am referring to dyno number as there’s been several YT vids on their numbers. Which isn’t more than 2-4hp difference between these intakes.
 

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CAI won't increase hp or torque to any degree that they make a real difference. Many times they will actually draw in warmer air then the stock intake. The stock intake is already a CAI. Many real world tests confirm this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you tested this theory yourself? My last Vehicle that I compared stock , K&n Drop in then the full K&N intake made a difference at the track which is how i tested it.
I had a 2017 Dodge Durango R/T and ran it stock. best was a 14.3 @ 96 mph. Then with the Drop in K&N air filter best was a 14.1 @ 97 mph. With the Full K&N CAI system no tune nothing else different It ran a 13.8 @ 99.6 mph. These are 1/4 mile times.
So the claims that they don't make a difference ok maybe on some cars but not my Durango. It made a nice difference. From 14.3 stock to a 13.8 with a CAI is pretty impressive if you ask me.

I have done no research on the Scat Packs to see if they gain stay the same or do worse. In take temp can be tested right on the car so that's pretty cool. At the track it's a few minutes to swap them out so number can be had to see. I have no Idea what system would be best but I really liked the JLT built quality. They seem to really pay attention to detail.
 

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CAI won't increase hp or torque to any degree that they make a real difference. Many times they will actually draw in warmer air then the stock intake. The stock intake is already a CAI. Many real world tests confirm this.
You will never get it across to them that our cars are MAP not MAF systems and that the only intake that will make a .5 difference at the track is a whipple.

They will also never understand that differences in track testing from one day/event to another will vary drastically even when no changes are made at all to the car. I gave up long ago trying to express these points and just let the CAI fans spend their money on engine bay eye candy.
 

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I had a 2017 Dodge Durango R/T and ran it stock. best was a 14.3 @ 96 mph.
Lets start with the obvious... "...best was..." Why were there slower times? That is what do you think could have possibly made that difference? If there were no changes to the hardware, should not all of your times be exactly the same?

What I have seen as proof is dyno's before the change and then dyno's done right away after the change. These showed no increases (and actually showed a decrease). This was on a 392. In one test they figured it was the throttle body that was not allowing for the additional air so they put in a Hellcat throttle body. Still no difference.\

Time and time again people have tested CAI's in real world applications (we are just speaking about Chargers here) with accurate means of testing and shown no gains. Some people here have claimed a few horsepower/torque with no real testing behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You will never get it across to them that our cars are MAP not MAF systems and that the only intake that will make a .5 difference at the track is a whipple.

They will also never understand that differences in track testing from one day/event to another will vary drastically even when no changes are made at all to the car. I gave up long ago trying to express these points and just let the CAI fans spend their money on engine bay eye candy.
I'm an old racer from the 80's and 90's. So looking into CAI systems is something that I do. I got gains from my 2017 Durango so I just assumed the 392 would also have an increase . I'm never interested in doing anything to the car to make is the same or slower. Basically what your saying is that CAI systems no matter the make yield no performance gains at all? I'm not going to waste my money on that very nice looking JLT intake if it give me nothing in return.
Thanks for the reply man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lets start with the obvious... "...best was..." Why were there slower times? That is what do you think could have possibly made that difference? If there were no changes to the hardware, should not all of your times be exactly the same?

What I have seen as proof is dyno's before the change and then dyno's done right away after the change. These showed no increases (and actually showed a decrease). This was on a 392. In one test they figured it was the throttle body that was not allowing for the additional air so they put in a Hellcat throttle body. Still no difference.\

Time and time again people have tested CAI's in real world applications (we are just speaking about Chargers here) with accurate means of testing and shown no gains. Some people here have claimed a few horsepower/torque with no real testing behind it.
Ok no problem BEST means BEST time. I ran 3 runs on the stock setup all within .1 of each run and about the same miles per hour. If you ever been to a 1/4 track, you will know many things can effect your performance which the biggest thing with a AUTO transmission is the launch. Unless your trying to shift it yourself, this is where you can greatly change your times by a few 10th's.

I have watch YouTube videos of many cars gaining 5-12 hp at the rear wheels. As a racer any HPO gain is a gain. By itself that might not make that much of a difference but leaving the 14's with a Durango and getting into the 13's is a big deal to me. I have seen many stock Durango's and none of them ran in the 13's ever with a 5.7L HEMI AWD. Hell I have seen 5.7L Chargers run in the mid to high 13's stock and they are much lighter then the 3 row SUV.
I'm thankful for you sharing what you know. I however also like to test for myself. As said above I'm an older racer and love doing performance mod's that lower my ET's at the track. I'm at sea level with a great Drayway near by in Atco Dragway park in NJ. It's an awesome place to test your car. You usually can get in 2 -6 runs per night depending on how busy they are. I would have no reason at all to purchase a CAI system if I was going to run the same or slow then the stock air box.
I know all about the Hellcat lower air box and air tube mod which from what I learned does increase air flow and should increase HP by something. I'm willing to get that setup and test it at the track against a stock air box and against a CAI system once I find one with good returns claimed and proven by other racers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I love CAI threads almost as much as oil threads.
Sorry I'm new around here so why are CAI and Oil threads frowned upon? I'm starting to get that feeling. Also how many of these people who frown on CAI systems go to the track? I'm sure there are plenty of snake oil CAI systems just like any other Hobby invested subject ( Wire in the Stereo forms is a hot one ).
 

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If you ever been to a 1/4 track, you will know many things can effect your performance which the biggest thing with a AUTO transmission is the launch. Unless your trying to shift it yourself, this is where you can greatly change your times by a few 10th's.
So... your 1/4 miles times can vary, mostly by the control of the driver... yet, the reason why you ran faster times after you changed to a CAI was... because of the CAI and not the driver.

Point made is differences in 1/4 mile times is not a good test of what changes a CAI makes. At least from what you yourself have stated. Heck, even I know the condition of the track and lanes from day to day, hour to hour can affect your times.

When you look at results from accurate testing, such as dyno runs, you will see that there is next to no gain at best from CAI on Chargers (w/o other modifications).The existing intakes are already CAI and the filter is not more restrictive then the throttle body.
 

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Sorry I'm new around here so why are CAI and Oil threads frowned upon? I'm starting to get that feeling. Also how many of these people who frown on CAI systems go to the track? I'm sure there are plenty of snake oil CAI systems just like any other Hobby invested subject ( Wire in the Stereo forms is a hot one ).
They're not frowned upon at all. It's just that there are countless threads on both of the topics, and often times they get heated because everyone has their own opinion.
 

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They all look like hot air intakes to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So... your 1/4 miles times can vary, mostly by the control of the driver... yet, the reason why you ran faster times after you changed to a CAI was... because of the CAI and not the driver.

Point made is differences in 1/4 mile times is not a good test of what changes a CAI makes. At least from what you yourself have stated. Heck, even I know the condition of the track and lanes from day to day, hour to hour can affect your times.

When you look at results from accurate testing, such as dyno runs, you will see that there is next to no gain at best from CAI on Chargers (w/o other modifications).The existing intakes are already CAI and the filter is not more restrictive then the throttle body.
With the Durango , no stock Durango R/T AWD ever ran a 13 anything ever. hell not many of them ever got down in the low 14's for that matter. So if the CAI system did nothing for my Durango R/T then how did I get into the 13's when without it I could not get past 14.3? Seems like a pretty big gain for something that supposed to do nothing for performance. Again I get it if the Charger doesn't have restriction in the intake system, I get that I just know what I saw every time I did a change on the Durango. The Drop in K&N air filter got me to a 14.1. Now mind you the temperature outside was around 55-65 degree for all the passes done both stock and with the Drop in. The CAI system also way around 58-68 degrees on it's runs. Track is at sea level.
Have you ever ran at a track? Either way if it makes a difference or not, it's a blast to go, meet other Mopar racers especially when they have the exact same car as you and you can compare slips and mod's done. It's good times man.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
They're not frowned upon at all. It's just that there are countless threads on both of the topics, and often times they get heated because everyone has their own opinion.
Gotcha. I'm not here to get into any heated debates either way. I love cars performance and I just got a brand new 2020 Scat pack. So hanging around here talking with you guys ROCKS !!!
Shame people talk the way they do on forums. Most of them would not talk that way in person. Hell all my Car guy friends love talking about Mod's that work and don't we all do our own testing and see what they do at the track. I don't street race as when I was younger I lost my license doing so. I had a 1982 Pontiac Firebird S/E model V8 that I did a lot of work to and I was out racing at the track and then on the streets all the time. We use to have 2 parking lots where all cars people would come and find a race. Sometimes someone would lose their license and one night I raced and beat a 1987 Iroc Z in bright yellow but really lost as my license was suspended for 6 months.
I like the track better as I can get a time slip and test things there. I can get what's called real world data on my own car and how it reponds.
I respect anyone who has done testing themselves and found that this or that doesn't work or they lost ET's or power whatever. Youtube wasn't around when I started racing back in 1987. Wish it was I could have saved a ton of cash LOL
 

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They advertise some decent gains..and like @green8teen345 stated, they actually do have vids of their dyno runs...!
Guess its upto you to decide whether it is worth it or not...
Based on my limited experience, given a choice I will always prefer a closed box type setup that feeds off air NOT from the engine bay area.
Day to day driving that heat soak is bound to get you...granted, the increase intake noise will be awesome...



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Discussion Starter #18
Seems like a Dyno Pull they are making some HP and Torque. Not bad . I wouldn't want it if day to day your intake temp numbers are higher then stock. The Dyno is one thing but real world is another. A Dyno has a fan keeping things cool or at least air moving.
 

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They advertise some decent gains..and like @green8teen345 stated, they actually do have vids of their dyno runs...!
So for a period of about 500rpms they gain about 12hp. All of the other times it is around 3hp. They then claim a gain of 12hp. Sounds GREAT... until you realize that this gain lasts about 1/4 of a second and the other 99% of the time it is actually around 3hp. People hear, 12hp... and think it is adding this over-all when in reality it hits that amount for such a small fraction of a time that it amounts to nothing.
 

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FWIW. I went from a Hellcat lower airbox with the Ram air tube piped into the box and a K&N FIlter. Intake temps were on average 4 degrees over ambient. I switched to the JLT Intake. Retained the tube that pipes the air from the front grill snorkel to just beneath the big blue JLT Airfilter (and it's huge). The average intake temps are now 2 degrees over ambient. Take it for what it's worth. I didn't see much of an increase in intake temps at all switching from the closed box to the open filter intake. I would think that in traffic or around town with a lot of stop and go, the stock airbox gets heat soaked but the open JLT cools down pretty quick.

The plastic pipe that connects between the open filter and the TB is a solid piece and it's pretty generous in size and smoothness compared to the little stock rubber flex coupler.
 
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