[WideBlueEyes]

My question is simple, I was looking into the Zez nitrous kit for our LX cars.

My question: is it safe to run a 100 shot with this kit on stock internals for our 5.7s.

For those who don't know, I have a 09 RT/R&T. Obviously I know it lessens the engine life and I will need a tire to retard the timing. But is it safe for the motor?

Thanks for all responses!
-Adam


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[Mean R/T]

If used right it's safe i know people that run with a 100 shot without a tune but I would recommend getting a tune for it

 

[WideBlueEyes]

If used right it's safe i know people that run with a 100 shot without a tune but I would recommend getting a tune for it

Thanks for the response! I would definitely want to data log and set up a tune, I was thinking the diablo sport intune would work well for this purpose. Any thoughts on that?


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[Mean R/T]

Yes you can use a diablo tuner to get a custom tune

 

[370 HEMI]

My question is simple, I was looking into the Zez nitrous kit for our LX cars.

My question: is it safe to run a 100 shot with this kit on stock internals for our 5.7s.

For those who don't know, I have a 09 RT/R&T. Obviously I know it lessens the engine life and I will need a tire to retard the timing. But is it safe for the motor?

Thanks for all responses!
-Adam


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One thing to remember about nitrous is that it is an accelerant which produces more temperature and pressures. The gasolines we have now already don't have any lubricity left in them....and if you run ethyl alcohol laced fuels you also have lubricity stripping going on with whatever little you do have from ethanol.

Running a stock engine with nitrous is possible and much better and safer using ACES IV in the fuel. Not only will it make the nitrous 7% more powerful, but it will also impart the lubricity necessary to keep all the parts and pieces from damage after long term use.

Using ACES IV is like having insurance. You buy it and hope to not need what it does, but when you use it, it will prevent problems down the road that you don't want!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

[WideBlueEyes]

Using ACES IV is like having insurance. You buy it and hope to not need what it does, but when you use it, it will prevent problems down the road that you don't want!



Regards,

Brian

BND Automotive LLC:driving:

440-821-9040

www.bndautomotive.com

Thanks for your response Brian! I have read many of your post and visited your web page.

I am interested in your products, if I understand correctly, you suggest certain products for specific setups.

What would you prescribe for my situation. Before and after nitrous.

I have a drop in air filter and straight pipes after the cats. I am otherwise stock with a 09 RT R&T. 110000 miles on the motor. I will be adding a diablo tuner to my setup soon and I am looking into a off-road x-pipe for my exhaust.

Thank you in advance.
-Adam


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[Mean R/T]

The rt comes with a x pipe already right behind the cats

 

[370 HEMI]

Thanks for your response Brian! I have read many of your post and visited your web page.

Your welcome Adam! We are always glad to give insight to things and try to protect your car like we would do our own. Yea, the website was a long time coming and finally the new one is up and running.

I am interested in your products, if I understand correctly, you suggest certain products for specific setups.

Yes, like you would dial in your car for drag racing, we tailor make our products for you when we know what parameters that we are working with. Engine, transmission, differential, steering system and coolant. And of course ACES IV.

What would you prescribe for my situation. Before and after nitrous.

I have a drop in air filter and straight pipes after the cats. I am otherwise stock with a 09 RT R&T. 110000 miles on the motor. I will be adding a diablo tuner to my setup soon and I am looking into an off-road x-pipe for my exhaust.

Basically we would do ACES IV 1st, then look at differential next. After that, engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid and steering system......in that order.

Thank you in advance.
-Adam


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Basically when we talk I can get a better understanding how to proceed with you! Looking forward to working with you when you are ready.:bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

[WideBlueEyes]

The rt comes with a x pipe already right behind the cats

Wow, if that's the case I want to smack the previous owner because the cut the x pipe out. Why would they do that *face palm*


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[Ddaddy]

Wow, if that's the case I want to smack the previous owner because the cut the x pipe out. Why would they do that *face palm*


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Why do you think you need an x-pipe? What do you think it will do for performance?

The SRTs don't have them on the 6.1L (it's a false x-pipe that isn't connected from side-to-side). The 5.7L used them to maintain exhaust pressure when in MDS mode to keep effective scavenging efficiency and reduce drone. If you are improving performance the first thing you will want to do is turn off MDS

 

[702RN]

Why do you think you need an x-pipe? What do you think it will do for performance?

The SRTs don't have them on the 6.1L (it's a false x-pipe that isn't connected from side-to-side). The 5.7L used them to maintain exhaust pressure when in MDS mode to keep effective scavenging efficiency and reduce drone. If you are improving performance the first thing you will want to do is turn off MDS

Good advice there. Lose the MDS. You won't notice a big change in gas mileage and you'll have instant power when accelerating from cruising speeds, no more lag.

You can run a smaller shot of nitrous with a stock motor. 75 shot is all I would go, 100 should be okay but is getting risky imo. A tune is always a nice idea, especially if you're using it for the track. Grab some colder plugs and you'll be good to go. There are quite a few threads on here about nitrous. Visit LX and search there too, it's a much more mod intensive forum.

 

[WideBlueEyes]

It's not that I need an x pipe I guess. I've always heard that they are good to have. I know they equal out the exhaust pressure between the two cylinder banks. I also heard it changes the tone of the exhaust.

But as always, I have complete trust in what you say DDaddy!


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[WideBlueEyes]

Does anyone know how much power the drivetrain is good for?

I'd like to know conservative numbers, I really don't want to stress anything to the extreme. I'm perfectly fine upgrading the soft spots in both the motor and drivetrain but would like to know what I'm safe doing because I will be upgrading things one at time.

I know I will Lilly be changing the gear ratio to 3:52 or 3:73.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance
-Adam




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[Mean R/T]

I think 400-450 to the wheels and going with higher gears will be a good idea makes a nice improvement

 

[Ddaddy]

Does anyone know how much power the drivetrain is good for?

I'd like to know conservative numbers, I really don't want to stress anything to the extreme. I'm perfectly fine upgrading the soft spots in both the motor and drivetrain but would like to know what I'm safe doing because I will be upgrading things one at time.

I know I will Lilly be changing the gear ratio to 3:52 or 3:73.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance
-Adam




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Well, the NAG1 tranny is rated for 428 lb-ft of input torque and the rear axle half-shafts are at about 500 HP. If you are pushing more than 500 HP to the rear wheels, you will need to upgrade the tranny and rear half-shafts at least.

If your engine output is around 600 HP or less, you can get by on the stock components unless you put on drag slicks and get really good traction on hard launches. That's when things will generally start breaking.

Street tires act like a power bleed to keep stress off the drive train since you can't get all the power to the ground and won't likely break parts (wheels spin, driveline stress is relieved). If you are able to get full traction with something like slicks, then the drive train experiences full loads and you find out where the failure limits are.

 

[Hemi31]

100 shot on a stock motor is fine. If you have a tuner pull 4 degrees of timing out.....if you don't then add some 100 octane unleaded to help with any detonation. Also you want to go to a colder plug. Don't worry about having to run boutique oil unless you just like spending money. You're stock trans will be fine on a 100 shot, the axles will be fine as well if you have the 215 differential.

 

[370 HEMI]

Or go ahead and use ACES IV which acts like 100 octane fuel at 1 oz per 6 gallons for .31 cents over the price of pump premium. Like what we did with the Chevy 598!

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213993


Also give us a call about QuantumBlue Custom Designed Lubricants that we will make for you. Same type of design as much as you would design specific components in an engine build.

Your choice.

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

[WideBlueEyes]

Thanks again for everyone's input. That's why I love this community.

Based on what I have read here and other places, I will be doing the ZEX Nitrous#243-82177 kit.

I knew I would have to retard the timing 4 degrees with a tuner and use colder plugs but it seems like there isn't any guess work with this system. I plan on supporting it with a 180 t-stat and lower fan temps.

I really want to drop in lower gears, I don't use this car for racing by any means and drive 5 miles of back roads to work. I'm no concerned about has mileage. Any thoughts or input on a nice gear ratio and setup?

I don't know which direction to go; 3.55, 3.73, 3.92

Thanks a million!
Adam


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[Keavdog]

With my previous setup I had a stock block 5.7 with a maggie @ 8lbs putting 479 to the rear wheels. Ran this setup for 3 years no issues. I went with the getrag 3.73 rear (Mancini racing has good prices) - one of the funnest mods I ever did! I drag race the car with Hoosier slicks so I swapped out the rear half shafts for DSS 1400 HP axles. I also ran a 3200 RPM stall - otherwise stock drive train, no issues.

 

[WideBlueEyes]

With my previous setup I had a stock block 5.7 with a maggie @ 8lbs putting 479 to the rear wheels. Ran this setup for 3 years no issues. I went with the getrag 3.73 rear (Mancini racing has good prices) - one of the funnest mods I ever did! I drag race the car with Hoosier slicks so I swapped out the rear half shafts for DSS 1400 HP axles. I also ran a 3200 RPM stall - otherwise stock drive train, no issues.

I saw the prices on all three, they want a lot more for the 3.73:1, is there any reason for this? Just high demand?

Thanks
-Adam




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