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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So it turned out I didnt have to work today and I decided to go to the dealership and order some paint for some of the interior pieces. The paint is supposed to be in tomorrow but I decided I would make sure I knew how to tear everything down today so when it came time to do it tomorrow I was good to go.

I know there are several threads about this already but I decided to post some more specific instructions and my suggestions along with pictures because I know I always feel better about a DIY mod when I have pictures to follow.

I actually used the instructions from TBYDaytona40 in another thread(http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60204) to go off of but I left the beer part out:(

So far I've gotten the steering wheel inserts out and I dont recall seeing any pics of inserts from SEs but i assume its the same process if you have the radio buttons or just the inserts like I do. So here goes....


Removing Steering Wheel Inserts

1. Start by turning the wheel 90 degrees that one of the bolts is as far down below the dash panel as you can get it. The telescope the wheel out as far as it will go. This, in combination with a ratchet extension makes, getting at the bolts as easy as possible. The socket is a 10mm. If you dont have an extionsion, a deep socket would probably do the job, but I didnt feel like looking for one.



2. After removing the first bolt turn the wheel so the other bolt is accesible and remove it also. These are the only screws/bolts you need to removed to get the airbag assembly out of the way. You should have two bolts that look like this.



3. The airbag assembly can now be pulled out but it is attached by two harnesses.



There is no need to detach those so you can just set the assembly on the wheel so it is out of the way or hold it out of the way, whichever you prefer. I just set it at an angle like this.



4. The inserts can probably be removed with any number of tools (TBYDaytona40 suggested a small jewelers screwdriver or a creditcard). I went with a trusty flathead screwdriver. I wrapped the end in masking tape to avoid any damage to the wheel or inserts.



5. Stick the screwdriver under the insert where it meets the round part of the wheel and use it to pry the insert up. BE CAREFUL because there is a small plastic piece under the insert here but I couldnt really tell what purpose it served.You will hear a loud pop when it comes out. Dont worry its, not a problem, unless you break the small plastic piece...which I still dont think is a problem. According to other post, if you have the lower two inserts also, they should just pop out without much problem.



This is what the removed insert looks like



And this is what the the recess in the wheel looks like (If you dont have the steering wheel radio controls). You can see the attachment points in both that were the sources of the loud pop.



With both inserts removed this is what you should have.



Once the inserts are painted and you're ready to put them back in they simple pop back into place. replaced the airbag assembly and screw the bolts back in in the same manner they removed in step 1 above.
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Removing the Radio Bezel and Shifter Bezel

1. Lets start with removing the radio bezel. It pretty straight forward but the bezel is kind of flimsy and expensive to replace so take it slow. I suggest starting at the top and walking it down.

Begin by pointing the air vents all the way up so you give yourself a place to grab the bezel...



...the bezel is attached with metal clips all the way down and these can be easy to pull out or very hard depending on the location and angle you are trying to pull them out (obviously pulling them directly out of their slots is the best best but its somtimes hard to tell where they are so you are often left pulling a little high or low of the actual location. A picture futher down may help in locating the clips.

Anyway...continue pulling along the sides of the bezel from the top down, making sure the clips are out before moving down...

...

when you get to the bottom, I suggesy opening the ashtray/cigarette light and pulling the bottom of the bezel from there. It is a better angle to pull from and it may detach easier...



2. Once all the clips are out, you need to unplug the harnesses. There are a total of four (three on the A/C controls and one for the hazard lights or whatever buttons you may have bewteen the top of the radio and the A/C vents. On mine there was a red clip holding the vertical harness on the A/C controls. It must be removed before the harness will dettach. Remove it by pulling it straight up.

Here is a pic of the red clip...



...and here is a pick of the back of the now disconnected bezel.



3. In order to removed the shifter bezel (and when I say bezel here, I'm refering to the black plastic piece that extends from the cig lighter tray to the cup holders, NOT the silver plastic bezel around the shifter. That piece can be removed without taking anything else apart) you must remove the ashtray/cigarette light. I did this after removing the radio bezel but I believe it could be done with the radio bezel still in place.

When removing the cig lighter/ashtray you are removing this whole piece...



...not just the part that opens. It is held inplace by four metal clips and there is a harness that supplies power to the lighter.

You can see the two clips on one side here. The other side looks the same...



4. Now, with the cig lighter out of the way you should have this view of the area infront of the shifter...



Remove the little tray to reveal two screws...



5. Remove the screws and begin lifting the bezel from the end you just removed the screws. It only has two of those metal clips and they are at the end closest to the cup holders. I had to pull pretty hard to get them to come out. In fact I thought I was going to break something before I knew exactly what was under there. Dont worry though, this piece is pretty sturdy. Just make sure you are grabbing the piece as close to the end with the clips as space and your hand size will allow before pulling. Pulling from the opposite end may lead to excess pressure on the middle of the bezel and breaking. Once again, I'm sure this piece is not cheap to replace.

Here is a pic of the location of the two metal clips...



...and here is what you should have when all the necesary pieces are removed. (NOTE: I removed my cup holder insert so I could clean it, but that it not required to get the bezel out.)

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Cluster Bezel Removal

1. This is really straight forward but needs to be done with patience. I have read several different opinions on how to remove this piece and this is just my suggestion. Start on the outside and work your way in. Once you get oneclip out wedge a flathead screwdriver under the bezel up next to he next clip like this...



...and roll the screw drive in your fingers to pry the clip out. Once you get done with one side do the other and pull the middle out last. This piece if very fragile so just take your time however you decide to do it.

Here is a view of the back showing just how many clips hold this piece in place.



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Prep and Paint

1. Make sure you have everything you need. Pieces to be painted, plastic paint to be used as primer (i bought black satin krylon fusion at wal-mart), colored paint, and if you choose so, clear top coat. I got the color matched paint and clear coat at the dealership for about 35 dollars.



2. I cleaned all the pieces with generic streak free glass cleaner with ammonia. I just sprayed it on a cloth and rubbed all the pieces down then made sure they were dry with a bare soft cloth. This is important to make sure all the grease, dirt, finger oils, etc. are off the pieces you wish to paint.

3. I buffed the tops of the steering wheel inserts with some 400 grit sandpaper to give the primer something better to bond to.

4. Apply the primer is a few light coats. Make sure not to apply too much in one coat or you may get runs or high spots and that will just cause more trouble down the road. Make sure to try and cover all surfaces that you plan on painting with the primer. I had some problems with the colored paint not bonding very well and I think its because the primer with too thin in some spots.

heres everything after priming. Nothing too exciting but an important step...



5. Once you're happy with the primer start applying the paint in thin coats to avoid runs or pooling. I wore a latex glove on hand to avoid getting more oil on the pieces, but i dont know thats it necesary. If you end up getting any high spots or runs or crackling in the paint you will probably want to wet sand it down. I used 400 grit wet sanding paper. Wait to do any sanding until the last coat you put down is pretty dry or the paint may peel away when you try to sand it and then you are left with divets that a pita to fix. Also dont rub too hard with the sand paper, if the paper is wet enough you should be able to buff out any blemishes with ease.

SUGGESTION: Dont try to cover the larger pieces in one coat application. Focus on one stretch or section at a time. This should help to avoid runs and pooling.

6. If you have continued problems with cracking, sand the area down flat, re prime it and then try to paint it again.

OK...sorry for the delay but lack of time has kept me from getting this totally wrapped up but i finally have some finished pictures.





the shift bezel isnt in there yet bc im having some issues with one spot but as soon as i get that done ill try to get a pic of it up.
 

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What color are you painting everything? Jared
 

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Nice start bro, ill keep my eye on this thread
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What color are you painting everything? Jared
im gonna go with inferno red, to match the exterior. i got a can of clear topcoat also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
added radio and shifter bezel removal. more to come still...for now, dinner.
 

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Sweet I will keep an eye out for future pictures.
 

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Nice work man. Can't wait to see the finished product
 

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excellent write up. thanks for taking the time to document this.
 

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i just got to painting my parts today and i see in your picture of your cluster rings it appears some of the tabs at the top are melted in your picture as well as when i took mine off. Anyone else have that problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, finally got some pictures of the finished pieces up. i hope everyone enjoys it as much as i do. and for anyone whos on the fence about doing this i strongly suggest you go for it. it really makes the interior pop!
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Very good write up with pics to boot! End result was sweet. Good job.
 

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Looks great good work
 

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excellent write up! good thing i ran into this because i'm considering doing the same wit hthe rings around the gauge and the shifter bezel. how did you take that off?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
excellent write up! good thing i ran into this because i'm considering doing the same wit hthe rings around the gauge and the shifter bezel. how did you take that off?
if you're asking about the silver bezel with/in the the larger black shifter bezel then that piece can just be pried out by sliding something underneath it. its just held in there with some basic clips. if you plan on taking the larger black piece out those instructions are in the write up and when you remove that piece you will be able to easily see where the silver bezel is attached and remove it. ill try to get a pic up of how the silver piece is attached but i left it at my parents house and im not going back over there till friday. if you have any other questions just PM me.
 

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Great pics, great writeup, great turn out andd great finish!!!
Sad about the beer part though. lol
 
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