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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I literally just got done installing the new Angel Eye Halo's for the taillights. I purchased them from AAC. Total install time took approx 6 hours (I did take my time though). Inspired by other Charger owners here on this forum who helped me with the front install of the Angel Eye Halo's, I decided to take pics of the install process from beginning to end. A great big thank you to forums member Hawk570 for his help with the tails install and answering all of my stupid questions. Thanks dude I owe you!. I hope this is of help to any of you out there contemplating this mod...... any questions, feel free to pm me or reply here. I will add that although the pics turned out pretty decent, this mod is a million times better viewed in person. Let me know what all of you viewing this think........ enjoy! Start by removing the assembly itself. There are 3 black plastic wing nut type screws, located inside the trunk, that hold each assenbly to the car. Remove these 3 nuts by simply hand twisting them off in a counter-clockwise motion. One is plain to see & holds some of the carpeting in place. Then 2nd one is way up high in the corner, and the 3rd one is located behind the carpeting, next to the wiring harness, closer to the outer edge of the car. You'll have to fold down the carpeting to access it. (Cont.) ----->
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The next step involves removing the assembly from the car. Once that is done, you'll have to bake each assembly in the oven for 20 minutes at 215 degrees. Place assembly on a baking sheet, outside edge facing up. After baking, carefully, CAREFULLY separate the red outer lens from the assembly itself. Take your time as it might crack if you go too fast! Never rush! After you have successfully separated out the parts you can beginning installing the Halo's themselves. (Cont.) ------>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used a center punch and heated the tip of it with a propane torch. This made for easy "punching" of the holes through the assembly itself for which to run the wires from the Halo's. A brazen rod will suffice. Don't use a drill, you'll scratch everything up and have plastic bits all over the inside of the assembly. Place the Halo ring onto the assembly, gently manuver the Halo wire through your hole. I used clear GE Silicone II to mount the ring in place. Use blue painters tape to hold the ring onto the assembly whle the sillicone is drying. While waiting for the silcione to set-up/cure..... go bake the other assembly and repeat the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While your waiting for the silicone to dry on the Halo's for BOTH assembly's, move onto the inverters. Pick a spot (INSIDE THE TRUNK) to mount them. Although AAC will claim the inverter's are waterproof, why risk it? I used adhesive backed velcro to mount 'em. Moving the inverters to the inside of the trunk will require you extending the lead wires. Cut off the attached plastic clips. It's okay, trust me. Go buy some extra wire (18ga is fine) and heat shrink tubing. Now extend your inverter wires. Moving the inverters to the inside of the trunk will also require you drilling an actual hole into your car. I suggest drilling a hole directly below where the 2nd bolt/wing nut is located. (Cont.) ---->
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After you drill a hole into your car, make sure to use a file and file off any burs and/or sharp edges. Just to be on the safe side, I painted any exposed metal using Rust-Oleum gloss black paint. Let the paint dry. Mount your inverter in the trunk now and pull your newly extended wires through the hole you just made. Don't forget you don't want any chance of water getting into your trunk, therefore use a lil GE Silicone II and close up your hole. It should now look like this. (Cont.) ---->
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Now I forgot to take pictures of these next couple of steps however it is important to re-attach the rear portion of your assembly back onto your car. The reason you want to do this step is because when you separate the outer red lens cover from the assembly, it will not seat correctly back onto the rear portion (thus causing alignment issues). After you have reattached the assembly, bring the corresponding outer red lens cover over and simply place it onto the the car as if nothing had been done to it at all. Take note of any areas that might not be lined up properly with the body lines of the trunk lid and rear quarter panels. Any adjustments will have to be made by using a combination of sanding/filing/and or cutting of the plastic edging where both parts of the assembly used to sit harmoniously as one unit. That is until you baked 'em in the oven and broke/tore 'em open! Keep repeating this process until the parts and contours of the body panels align to your desire (hopefully perfect as mine turned out). Once done fine tuning the alignment, remove the rear assembly from the car and proceed to the next step of applying the epoxy. You might want to pick up a throw away set of artists brushes for applying the epoxy neatly onto the rear part of the assembly. Place a reasonable amount all along the entire edge where both the rear/front parts of the assembly make contact with eachother. Fasten both parts together and then use the blue painters tape to secure them tightly together while they dry. After the epoxy dries, you will want to place a generous amount of GE Silicone II along the entire gap around the entire assembly. Remember you don't want any moisture getting in! Let both the epoxy and the silicone dry for 1.5-2hours. While waiting for this stuff to dry, extend both your power and ground leads from the inverters in the same fashion as you did the white wires that connect to the Halo rings themselves. Proceed to the factory installed wiring harness located inside of the trunk. Cut the black wire for your ground, and the white wire with the purple stripe for your power lead. Splice those together. Whew....almost there, last couple of steps. Re-group, take a break, maybe start cleaning up some of those tools laying around the house so your signifigant other doesn't have a cow that your "messing up the house, whle your messing up your car" Deep breath, okay, ready for the final steps.......this is the fun part. (Cont.) ---->
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Final steps........ bring your completed and dried taillights back to the car. Again using heat shrink tubing, connect the wires you extended from your inverters to the wires from the Halo rings themselves (don't forget to cut off the metal connectors from the ring's wires first though). Make the connections. Re-install the entire headlight assembly back onto the car. Plug in your factory wiring harness and re-attach your black plastic wing nuts. Put everything back together and get ready for the show. Go turn on your parking lights, walk back, and check out what you just did! Holy crap they work! Now go pull your ride out into the end of your driveway and show all of your neighbors while you pop open few cold one's, you deserve it! Hope this is of help to those considering this mod. Since this is the first thread I've ever posted, please let me know what all of you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ooops, one last shot of the taillights at night. Again, this is a very cool mod, and although I'm no photographer by any means, I think the pics turned out alright, but again, viewing this mod in person is a million times better!
 

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Interesting look and I it seems to me you did a great write up. I would definitely try to follow this if I were ever to do something similar.
 

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Very nice install dude, looks sick. If I didn't have LED's I'd definitely do this mod....
 

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You did a Great Job! Thanks for sharing.
 

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Awesome writeup, I also will be considering this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
We both hooked 'em up to the parking lights. If you wanted to hook 'em up to the brake lights only, then splice the dark green and/or light green wire. But then realize that the Halo's would only function when the brakes lights come on. Stick with just the parking lights and they'll remain on all the time.
 

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Great install guide!!
 

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We both hooked 'em up to the parking lights. If you wanted to hook 'em up to the brake lights only, then splice the dark green and/or light green wire. But then realize that the Halo's would only function when the brakes lights come on. Stick with just the parking lights and they'll remain on all the time.
The halo's get brighter after a a few seconds, so if you were to wire them to the brake lights, you would not have the full brightness all the time, not to mention, the inverters would be over worked switching on and off everytime you brake.
 
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