I recently purchased an 07 charger 3.5l with police package from a ca. Auction. It has170k. Really cool car. It regularly idles at 600rpm. Recently the battery light came on I tested it with a multi meter, battery12v car running 14v. Sometimes when I start the car it idles at 1100 rpm and won't come down until I put it in drive then the rpm's are normal. When I put the car in neutral or park the rpm's go back to 1100. I don't know if the idel issue is related to the battery light? It has a giant battery may be a deep cycle. If anyone has ideas please share. Thank you for your time. Fred
Idles high in neutral and park
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The car normally does a high idle cycle on starting (even when warm) but it comes back down on it's own. With a cold engine on cold days it may take several minutes for the idle to come down.
Was the battery light you are talking about look something like this?
)Z( with a lightning bolt in the middle? If so, that's actually the Throttle body light and may be the root of your issue.
If the TB is dirty, sticking or failing, then it would cause the continuous high idle you are describing.
Was the battery light you are talking about look something like this?
)Z( with a lightning bolt in the middle? If so, that's actually the Throttle body light and may be the root of your issue.
If the TB is dirty, sticking or failing, then it would cause the continuous high idle you are describing.
Thank you Ddaddy.
The car idle doesn't come back down even after I drive for five miles and the car is completely warm. When driving the cars rpm's are normal, when I stop and take the car out of gear the rpm's go back up to 1100. The battery light on the dash look exactly like a battery complete with + & -. It's not the light with the lightning bolt.
Thank you for your time and knowledge it's appreciated.
The car idle doesn't come back down even after I drive for five miles and the car is completely warm. When driving the cars rpm's are normal, when I stop and take the car out of gear the rpm's go back up to 1100. The battery light on the dash look exactly like a battery complete with + & -. It's not the light with the lightning bolt.
Thank you for your time and knowledge it's appreciated.
I hooked the car to a computer and the field generator has a problem. I did a wiggle test which engaged the alternator and the rpm's went back to normal. The wire that had a short was the lower wires connected to the alternator which run to the wire loom. I'm now trying to find the generator pigtail so I can splice it. I'm trying to get the part but I don't know what the part is called and the auto parts stores and the dealer say the part is anywhere from 50-100$. Seems like a pretty high price for a connecter and a couple wires? If anyone has input about the part name and number and where to get it cheap would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Hello there, first - thank you very much for your post. I realize that this is already an old post and I might not get a response. Yet, I bought a retired 2010 Charger 3.5L police cruiser about a year ago, and I am currently having exactly the same issue you described. If you happen to see my reply - was the issue resolved just by replacing the alternator lower wires connector? I am trying to avoid removing / testing or replacing the alternator unless is strictly needed; my retired cruiser has approx. 112k miles now.
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Not that hard to remove alt and take to auto store to test
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Thanks Cihlenfeld for your prompt feedback. I am getting ready to do the Timing Belt service (belt, w pump, etc.) since it is past 102k miles now. I also ordered a good quality alternator connector (Field Ctrl / Sense), will be installing a completely new one asap during my spare time. During the timing belt service, will get the Alt.. out and will take it for a bench test. I am not using this Charger as an everyday commute vehicle. Thanks.
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Please, excuse the super late update - but - for anyone who might have a similar problem: in my case, it ended up being a BAD ALTERNATOR. I found that my 2010 Dodge Charger was having these (2) additional symptoms: intermittent, random alternator voltage drop to near 12V and, a weird whining noise as it was described at another web forum (copied below).
The information found in this webpage / forum was also helpful:
Why does my car have this whine??
#15 · Sep 1, 2013
Whining noise under hood of 2006 300C
"I had this problem for about two weeks. I tried to determine what it was, with limited success. The noise sounded like it was an accessory pulley. It did not get worse when I turned the wheel, so I did not think it was the power steering pump. I changed fluid anyway. I changed out the coolant and the noise remained. The water pump seemed fine. I sprayed wd-40 on the belt tension idler pulley, but the noise remained the same. I began to get random notifications like SERVICE PARK ASSIST, and the ABS and Traction Control system lights came on and cleared. Finally, the BATTERY light came on, indicating there was a problem with the charging system. The voltage coming from the alternator must be about 14VDC or it will not charge the battery. I checked it, and it was 14VDC, but intermittently dropped to 10VDC. The bearing is actually a bushing and it was sticking, causing the alternator RPM's to drop and the voltage dropped with it. I replaced the alternator and the noise and all other problems simply went away. What a relief! I have 66,000 miles on the car, and this is the first problem I have ever had with the car. Computers do not like variations in voltage."
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