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Okay, I got a Daytona and stomping it to the floor at a light when using autostick in 1st should be rewarded with a tire squeeling launch - in my mind that is. With the EPS/BAS/TCS disabled, shouldn't it smoke 'em? I have not attempted a brake lock burnout yet as I was waiting til I had a few more miles on it, but will it "let" me or hinder me?

You know it had to be asked at some point . . . . :whistle:
 

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TATTOOMAN said:
Okay, I got a Daytona and stomping it to the floor at a light when using autostick in 1st should be rewarded with a tire squeeling launch - in my mind that is. With the EPS/BAS/TCS disabled, shouldn't it smoke 'em? I have not attempted a brake lock burnout yet as I was waiting til I had a few more miles on it, but will it "let" me or hinder me?

You know it had to be asked at some point . . . . :whistle:

Just my experience, but, when I had about 300 miles on my car, I was on a lonely smooth road, and stopped the car, turned off the ESP, and floored it, and ..... Nothing ! but pretty nice fast ride.

I was abit perplexed, but figured it was the gearing or something. At 1500 miles, on the same road, I turned off ESP and floored it, and did a 20 or 25 foot posi burn. Needless to say, I was much more satisfied. From all the reading I have done, it is the computer " learning " you. Keep teaching it how to blow the tires off, and at about 2 or 3K miles, I am very confident, it will.

Note: I have an R/T, and not a Daytona

Tricster
 

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It would not suprise me that the computer has a break-in calibration. The computer does know how many "hours" are on the engine. It could be easy for the engineers to program reduced HP for the first, lets say, 1000 miles. As far as it learning your driving habits, I don't think the computer has any real sofisticated logic. I think the computer will calculate optimum performance based on sensor inputs and pre-programed prerimiters no matter how you drive on a regular basis
 

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I'd agree that with break-in time, the car will be more responsive for you. I've also noticed on my car that as I continue break-in I'm actually getting it to shift closer to indicated redline. Straight from the dealer it would shift just shy of 5500, now it will shift at a hair over.
As for the adaptive functionality of the ECM, I don't know for sure on these cars, but on my Taurus SHOs the computer did in fact have adaptive learning. You could take a dog slow car, clear the computer, beat the snot out of it for about an hour and gain 3/10s in the quarter mile.
 

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Look at the thread on throttle tip-in. There is an adjustment you can do that may help, but the computer opens the throttle slowly to save the rear end. It's called "torque management." Short of power braking, I don't think the stock setup will let you do much of a burnout.
 

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wow do i feel like a bonehead (yes go ahead and say it)! ok, quick and short, i didn't realize that the esp was on all this time...i thought that if the little car with the squiggly lines light was on, the esp was off. so i read this thread b/c i too can't get my tires to squeel to save my life (ok once in awhile but it is a pretty depressing chirp). i have 4500 miles on the silver steel godaddy charger r/t and when i turned the esp light on (esp off) i floored it at a redlight. to my amazement i must have squeeled the tires for 20 feet!!!

i have loved this car the whole time, but now i am going to leave some me and car time every week (sorry wife)..... :wink: :wink:
 

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Yes, ESP OFF(icon lit on dash) will help with launch.


These new vehicles being drive by wire, with adaptive ecms and transmissions will take time to learn your driving style.

I was informed that the idle and some other settings were tweaked for breakin periods for as much as 5,000 miles and then the computers would recalibrate for liftime settings, and then only would adjust for fuel octane, altitude and air density. Optimium fuel economy would be seen at about 3-5 thousand miles.

Like the days of old, a hard break in means a little more guts out of your engine. Break it in soft and you are puny.

I was told by an oldtimer you may experience lower main seal leaks when you break in hard, but the older cars were easier to wrench on. It was not big deal to put a new seal in.


Just some input.
 
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