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2.7L Engine


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION
Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.


2. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container

3. Disconnect the radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.

4. Remove nuts from the heater tube flange studs.



Fig. Thermostat housing (1), bolt (2), nuts (3) and weeping hole (4)-2.7L engine

5. Loosen the starter bolt at heater tube bracket.

6. Pull the heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.

7. Remove thermostat housing (1), O-ring (2) and thermostat (4).

8. Remove thermostat housing bolts (3).



To install:

1. Thoroughly clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
NOTE
Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.


2. Install thermostat and seal (2) into thermostat housing (1).

3. If removed, install the two studs.

4. Lubricate a new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.

5. Position the heater return tube flange over the two studs. Install the 3 retaining nuts and torque to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).

6. Tighten the starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

7. Connect the lower radiator hose to thermostat housing. Install the hose clamps.

8. Refill cooling system

9. Connect the negative battery cable. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.



3.5L Engine


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
WARNING
Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.


2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

4. Detach the electrical connectors from the engine oil and power steering pressure switches.

5. Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses from thermostat housing.

6. Remove thermostat housing bolts.

7. Remove the housing, thermostat, and gasket.

NOTE
The OEM thermostat is staked in place at the factory. To ensure proper seating of the replacement thermostat, carefully remove the bulged metal from thermostat housing using a suitable hand held grinder. It is not necessary to re-stake the replacement thermostat into thermostat housing.





Fig. Thermostat housing/coolant inlet (1), thermostat (2) and gasket (3)-3.5L engine



To install:

1. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces.

2. Position a new gasket on thermostat and housing.

3. Install thermostat housing, gasket and mounting bolts onto block. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

4. Install the radiator hose.

5. Install the bypass hose.

6. Connect the negative battery cable.

7. Fill the cooling system. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.



5.7L Engines


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Disconnect the radiator hose from thermostat housing.
NOTE
Thermostat o-ring is part of thermostat and is not serviced separately.


4. Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat.



Fig. Thermostat housing (1), thermostat (2) and retaining bolt (3)-5.7L engine



To install:

1. Clean the mating areas of timing chain cover and thermostat housing (1).
NOTE
Install thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position.


2. Install thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on timing chain cover with bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position.

3. Position thermostat housing on timing chain cover.

4. Install the two housing-to-timing chain cover bolts (3). Tighten bolts to 112 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
WARNING
Thermostat housing must be tightened evenly and thermostat must be centered into recessed groove in timing chain cover. If not, it may result in a cracked thermostat housing, damaged timing chain cover threads or coolant leaks.


5. Attach the lower radiator hose to thermostat housing.

6. Carefully lower the vehicle.

7. Fill the cooling system.

8. Connect the negative battery cable. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
 

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why disconnect the battery?
 

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5.7L Engines

5. Attach the lower radiator hose to thermostat housing.
This could get interesting! It's definitely the TOP hose that goes to the T-stat housing.
 

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5.7, use the gallon zip lock bag :)

I've wanted to try a shop vac on the overflow tank while changing the stat.
 

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This could get interesting! It's definitely the TOP hose that goes to the T-stat housing.
That's what I was thinking. I've never worked on a 2.7L, but is there something unique to the 2.7L that requires you to disconnect the radiator hose? Can you not just remove the bolts/nuts from the T-stat housing and pull it loose form the engine without disturbing the hose? It's been my experience that when you remove a hose from the radiator or the engine and put it back on it leaks. Especially with the OEM spring loaded clamps.

I've wanted to try a shop vac on the overflow tank while changing the stat.
Good idea! I may have to try that one since I'm getting ready to install my summer T-stat and change the coolant.
 

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Good idea! I may have to try that one since I'm getting ready to install my summer T-stat and change the coolant.
Please let me know if it works!

But, if you're changing the fluid anyway, it's really not going to matter :) The idea behind the shop vac is to create enough of a vacuum to prevent any fluid from running out when the gooseneck is loosened.
 

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I was thinking of using the shop vac for getting all the excess fluids out of the overflow tank without having to dissconnect anything. I hate it when people show a car and they have this perfect engine compartment with an unsightly yellow/orange/brown stained overflow tank.

I was hoping some CLR would clean this thing up. If it does I don't have to remove it to clean it and the shop vac should get most of the fluid out of it using the skinny wand attachment.
 
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