Charger Forums banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the Charger and Minnesota winters probably won't get along too well, come 01 NOV I'm putting it in the back stall of the garage until April.

Here's what I'm working with--my garage is designed to be 4-car, with two stalls in front and two in back. In reality, the back stall can only fit one, because of a shelf in the way along the house wall. The garage is heated, but not climate-controlled (I keep just enough heat in there to make it tolerable when going out to the garage in the morning.) There will be no vehicles parked next to the Charger.

What do I need to do to put it away for six months or so?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
I don't lol... One of the little benefits of living in California -especially the bay area where the weather stays almost the same year round.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,557 Posts
definitely make sure that before you start it in the spring season that the oil is changed after having it sit for that long..

the user manual also recommends that the vehicles A/C is run for at least 5 minutes once every 2 weeks to keep the system lubricated to prevent risk of failure at restart..i think it would be a good thing to just let it run for a little bit once every couple of weeks to keep her all lubed up..but thats just me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
I throw some fuel stabilizer in mine, make sure the tank is full of gas(condensation) and start it up every once in a while. Mine sits in a heated environment too, which helps reduce the effects of moisture from temp change. I am going to change oil probably before I put it away just because its time. Otherwise it will be just as you left it come April or May or whatever.
Oh and as fas as the oil sitting I look at it this way, whether it sits in a jug or in my motor its in the same environment( controlled) it will be fine. Any moisture it does see will readily evaporate the first time you drive and heat the oil up to whatever the boiling point of water is at your elevation. Fuel on the other hand, well moisture sinks to the bottom ( heavier S.G.) and starts rusting whatever it touches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
Oh and as fas as the oil sitting I look at it this way, whether it sits in a jug or in my motor its in the same environment( controlled) it will be fine.
The problem with the oil in the motor is that contaminants which are in every motor will combine with the oil and THAT is what causes the oil to break down faster than in a bottle. Probably be ok but just a thought.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
487 Posts
I am also storing my car because I live in MN, there is a guy next to me that will store my car for 315.00 for six months. He owns about 50 some car’s that are worth from $50,000-$100,000 cars no joke. He has been storing car’s for years and told me that I need to get my car almost to empty and then fill the car up with the gas that has no corn in it, the Octane is like 100%. Next make sure you put a bunch of dryer sheets in the car to make sure the mice stay out of the car, they hate those bounce sheets. Also keep the battery on a small trickle charge; the chargers are not that expensive. Don’t worry about the tires having flat spots, they will work themselves out when you start driving, you only had to worry about that back in the day. He said that’s all you need to do, and you are good to go, if anyone would know better it would be that guy. I am just going to get an oil change right before I store it. He also said dont worry about starting them up every so often, he never does that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
Why put it away? Do you have heavy snow and Ice on the road every day? On those days where the roads are clear, use the car...and enjoy it. I hope you have RSA's on it. I am in Chicago and drove mine last winter. Otherwise Change oil, Fresh fuel top off, Fuel Stabilizer, trickle charger, Mice-away, tire pressure, and no sex in the back seat while in storage.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,557 Posts
i think its the salt that concerns most of the owners of these cars...

i know thats why i dont have mine up here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
As stated, most important thing is to change the oil BEFORE you store it!
Disconnect the battery too, it will die within a month if you don't and then it will freeze and burst if its dead and thats not nice in the trunk, or use a battery tender to keep it charged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,082 Posts
I'm storing mine too this winter. Last winter, I stored it outside under the carport...I didn't use fuel stabilizer or anything...and I only started the car on a few occasions, when the outside temp fell to -20 C/ -4 F or colder...and she started up everytime, the first time. I did change the oil when I first put her back on the road...but that was it.

This year, she is going to sleep on Nov. 1, to be re-awakened on April 1st 2008. Special preparations...full tank of fuel with added fuel stabilizer, removal of battery, and that's about it...and an oil change April 1st. :grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
The reason you change the oil before you store is that the oil is full of acids and contaminants from use. These acids eat away at bearings and such when you store the car, and condensation in the block mixes with the acids and does even more damage.
Your shortening your engine life if you don't put fresh oil through the motor before storage.
If you change it before storage, you don't need to change it in the spring until the reg change distance.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,650 Posts
The SKIDOO mod.

Sorry, but all the above posts are DEAD WRONG.

Here's what you do:

1) Put these on the front:



2) Put these on the back:



3) Then DRIVE THE THING ALL WINTER

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Your Friday Funny courtesy of:

-=FLEX=-
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,650 Posts
Hellooo??? Is this thing on???

Tough crowd for a Friday. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Actually I just follow your #3 without the #s 1 or 2. I didn't spend all this money on this car just to store it all winter - and I just like it way too much to do without it for that long.

If it couldn't be my daily driver, it wouldn't be my car, period :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
487 Posts
Actually I just follow your #3 without the #s 1 or 2. I didn't spend all this money on this car just to store it all winter - and I just like it way too much to do without it for that long.

If it couldn't be my daily driver, it wouldn't be my car, period :)
Since I live in MPLS, MN there is no way that I am going to make my car suffer in the winter here. I have had a lot of close call's in the city's, (not my fault just crazy driver's out their) They put more salt on the ground then on food here. I don’t have a garage so my car cover would freeze on the car lol. I don’t know how I would wash my car each week and I love washing my car my self with a good sponge and a couple of buckets. So if you love your car, you will store it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Since I live in MPLS, MN there is no way that I am going to make my car suffer in the winter here. I have had a lot of close call's in the city's, (not my fault just crazy driver's out their) They put more salt on the ground then on food here. I don’t have a garage so my car cover would freeze on the car lol. I don’t know how I would wash my car each week and I love washing my car my self with a good sponge and a couple of buckets. So if you love your car, you will store it.
Ditto. I have to drive all over the Cities, and have to do a fair amount of street parking. No way in hell am I exposing this car to salt and Minnesota drivers on slippery streets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
I have been rodding for years. Live in Iowa and store my car in a storage unit. All I do is air up tires, make sure antifreeze is at least to 30 below safe, fill the tank with at least 91 octane and put some Sta Bil in the tank. Drive my car into it's "bag" and zip it up.

When I open it in the spring there is not a bit of dust, rust, corrosion or anything else. I have lots of chrome and polished aluminum and nothing even dulls!!!!!!

http://www.try-tech.com/car-pocket/crpt-main.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
I am also storing my car because I live in MN, there is a guy next to me that will store my car for 315.00 for six months. He owns about 50 some car’s that are worth from $50,000-$100,000 cars no joke. He has been storing car’s for years and told me that I need to get my car almost to empty and then fill the car up with the gas that has no corn in it, the Octane is like 100%. Next make sure you put a bunch of dryer sheets in the car to make sure the mice stay out of the car, they hate those bounce sheets. Also keep the battery on a small trickle charge; the chargers are not that expensive. Don’t worry about the tires having flat spots, they will work themselves out when you start driving, you only had to worry about that back in the day. He said that’s all you need to do, and you are good to go, if anyone would know better it would be that guy. I am just going to get an oil change right before I store it. He also said dont worry about starting them up every so often, he never does that.
Anyone else have thoughts about the Bounce dryer sheets ??? I've heard that the mice like to tear them up and use them for building nests .... (maybe after the smell of them dissipates?) I'd hate to encourage the little buggers !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
Hey I am wondering, I changed my oil like 2-3 weeks before storing, so is this good enough for changing it before storage?
Also, would it be fine if I just disconnected the battery with the neg taken of and added the fuel stabilzers with a full tank of 91 octane fuel. Also in an UN-heated 12x10 space?
Am i looking to find problems or damage in the long run with any of this or would this be fine for storage for about 5-6 months.

-Daywalker
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,553 Posts
I have been storing this thing for two winters now without any issues. Below is a pretty good checklist to work from:

1) Detail it first
2) Nearly empty on fuel and add fuel stabilizer
3) Put on jack stands, all four corners
4) Disconnect the negative battery terminal
5) Spray rotors with a light coat of WD-40 to prevent rusting
6) Cover and open new present in the spring

Hope this helps....
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top