If you are worried about cracking I'd stay with OEM... I hadn't seen the issues with WRTs I love those wheels, always really liked the style and they fit on either spindle!
Even my 18 inch winter set I use OEM Mopar wheels, they are engineered to much higher standards than most aftermarket wheels.
thats the problem...the ones that cracked ARE OEM. its like back with the chrome clads... they also had an issue as well. the metal cracked under the clads, and caused air leakage. which was the issue i had on mine before repair. thought it was a tire puncture. after 3 days, turned out to be a cracked wheel.
and EXACTLY the reason i went with em. they fit the RT setup, and then when i switched to SRT spindles... no issues.
That's nuts, guess I missed all that. A cracking wheel is something you should never have to worry about.
When the WRT came out they were touted as Lightweight and even had it branded on the early wheels, and they weighed 25 lbs vs 29 lbs for the previous 9" wheel, so guess they got em a little too light.
I'd still go with a factory forged wheel and believe the Hellcat Slingshot wheels have been reliable, 20x9.5 with +18.5 mm offset. I've got the same wheels except in Hyperblack and 5 years and 21,000 miles and no issues.
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I can deal with a cracked wheel if the wheel was a cheap wheel. wear and tear consumables i can understand. but a forged factory wheel like ya said. thats odd to me, and theres quite a few forums and groups with people dealing with the same. never on the outside lip, JUST the inner barrel.
i really do like the slingshots, i do... and its still an option. i'd love to do a 9.5 square setup with 275 or higher all the way around. i do 60 miles daily, and jan 2 of having the car for 2 years this year due to needing to change for family, i start with 29k, and now at 86k. i do drive a lot, even with the pandemic and not traveling for shows.
the weight, to me is def as important. the dual use as BigM06R/TAWT pointed out was a selling point, and hearing 26 lbs a wheel.... i was sold. on the 2016 camaro i went from stock 5 spoke 18's to Apex PS-7's simple because it was going froma 24 lb cast oem wheel to a 21 lb flow formed wheel with only 0.5 inch width gain. i get these are heavier cars, but everything adds up. just as long as you can find parts strong enough.
i've checked the load rating of a few wheels and am also looking at the HR5 hellraiser
HR5 - Hell Raiser Edition | Hell Raiser and Tires | HR5 Wheels (pkautodesign.com)
or even a set of 18's x 9.5 in Konig Ampliforms, given they clear the 4 piston calipers. thought process is a bit more tire will cushion the wheel better.
Ampliform - Konig Wheels
Well, I want to see some more details on this before I condemn a wheel. I also must have missed this in the last year I've been on too. Even so, 10? wheels out of 100,000? I'll bet you I can find more "tire failures" too. We seem to forget that even with annew car, someone else drives it, and will NEVER admit that they damaged something.
Please, feel free to research it. Ive exhausted myself on it the last 2.5 months after getting my wheel repaired.... and not only have i looked up well more than a handful of posts and pictures on it... the inner barrel specifically... once one becomes the one who had said issue, it kinda gives you a bit more caution towards it. i still have the repaired wheel with tire and tpms in the backseat, while the spare scat wheel without tpms is still on the car.
with forged wheels i've had, even flow forged, the barrels usually BEND not crack... cracked wheels are usually reserved for low or high pressure cast wheels, which is odd. and these are the Chrysler wheels according to the engravement on the barrels. so they aren't some aftermarket switch outs. Something to note, some of the lightweight wheels actually had "lightweight" and "Mopar" engraved/embossed in them on the front face. some didn't. the wheels that i have seen pics of this damage...as well as my own, DID NOT. I'll still keep em, don't plan to sell em, but still want a different wheel.
