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gserp4sox said:
OK, this is sure to start off one interesting debate! I'm particularly interested in what some of you more advanced "motorheads" think. Check this out http://www.gizmag.com/go/4397/

Everybody play nice :happy:

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gserp4sox said:
OK, this is sure to start off one interesting debate! I'm particularly interested in what some of you more advanced "motorheads" think. Check this out http://www.gizmag.com/go/4397/

Everybody play nice :happy:
Did you attach the wrong link?
"Horsepower increase witn initial engine breakin?" and the link is to a Hemi powered grill.
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gserp4sox said:
Sorry guys, :embarrese here's the correct link:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This just sets off warning bells in my head. I don't see anything for sale so I can't call it snake oil.

from the article; I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying this method to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.
This sounds real impressive, but how many people have had a brake-in problem?
I don't know of any. So what advantage is there for this meathod.
I am sure it works after all the only brake in thing I do is use non-synthetic oil for 6000 miles then I use what ever I want. No driving habbit changes.

more from the articleThe results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.
In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!
You use this brake in method and get one of those tornado things for the throttle body and your pushing 380 hp and getting 27 mile to a gallon.

My Magnum manual says there is no brake in required for this engine.
Of course it then tells you the typical brake in method.

I am sure this method will brake in an engine just fine. It just sounds more like someone trying to get some attention and feel important about something that doesn't matter.

Kind of like my post.
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In general I agree with the article. I tend to break-in my vehicles on the hard side. Most times though, your not going to get your vehicle brand new with under 20 miles on it.
 

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Hehehehehehe

Got my Daytona with 4 miles on it! :D
 

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Got my charger today with exactly 4 miles on it. Plus, a window sticker that said, built for (my name here) on it! I plan on breaking mine-in the traditional way. You can never be too safe when it comes to that, that's why it's the traditional break in method, right??
 

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Hmmm, I dunno about this, sounds good in theory.

You make can make harder steel by firing it, cooling it, fire it up again... cool it.
Then there is exercising... run for a minute, jog for 2, run for a minute, jog for 2...

But does the same thing work for engines? And if so then doing this in the first 20 miles, as he says, has should have NO EFFECT with his method.
 

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He is right for the most part.

I've got a speed shop about a mile up the road that I hang out in sometimes. They've been building and racing drag cars for about 25 years now I believe. They will tell anyone the same basic thing. Varying your speeds and throttle usage for the first few hundred miles will greatly increase a PROPER break-in. Getting on it really hard about 20-30% of the time helps the ring seal process along greatly. The only thing I have ever avoided was stomping it in 1st gear for the first few hundred miles as this is the heaviest load you can place on your engine without towing something behind you. Simply stated, new metal is weakest. There is a great deal of truth to "Heat Cycles". It is the cycling between hot and cold that tempers metal (as well as glass). If you were to ask most people who've been involved in any kind of racing, and asked them if they would rather have a green-block, or an older well used block, they'd take the used block simply because the block has been tempered from use over a long period of time. Cylinder shafts can always be re-honed, and the blocks can be Magna-Fluxed for cracks, and you end up with an engine block that is MUCH stronger than any green block you can buy.
 

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RTjunkie said:
He is right for the most part.

Varying your speeds and throttle usage for the first few hundred miles will greatly increase a PROPER break-in. Getting on it really hard about 20-30% of the time helps the ring seal process along greatly.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt this the same basci thing the book says?
 

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The book recommends being "at speed" and not exceeding 55 mph when using any "short bursts" of WOT.

It can kinda be compared to brake bedding-in. Dodge would prefer that you don't jump all over the brakes when you just get the car in order to bed the pads into the rotor, however this process is commonly used by many professionals to obtain a better brake system break-in.

Dodge's manual is still pretty conservative on break-in's, they should instruct owners to use more WOT than they do.
 

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When I had my 350 CID Olds in my '70 Cutlass rebuilt for drag racing I brought it to the dyno after about 450 miles. Each run increased the horsepower and torque significantly. The way it was explained to me was that the rings were sealing with the WOT runs at high RPM on the dyno. Of course after the third run my head gaskets blew because it got to hot and the car was never the same again :)

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RTjunkie said:
He is right for the most part.
The only thing I have ever avoided was stomping it in 1st gear for the first few hundred miles as this is the heaviest load you can place on your engine without towing something behind you.
What do you mean by load?
The reason your not suppose to floor it in first is to avoid high rpm during the brake-in period (I thought)? Just like your not suppose to rev to red line in natural.

You can not apply full throttle in first for too long without hitting the rev limiter.


But it seems to me that first gear does not produce more load on the engine. The engine produces the same amount of power no matter the gear. So the load would be a function of resistance. Just like your towing example. First gear makes it easier for the engine to turn the tires and there for easier to move the car.

I really think the load is basically the same in first or fourth gears. But in fourth you can floor it for longer periods with less increase in rpm over that time.

Just trying to clarify
 
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