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Discussion Starter #1
I've been trying to link my Daytona to the garage door opener via Homelink but it doesn't seem to want to train. I've tried holding the button on the remote and homelink, I've tried pressing the remote every two seconds while holding homelink and still it won't train. The garage door opener is a Genie so it's compatible according to homelink website, but I think that either the opener is too old or the remote's signal is too weak. I've replaced the battery so that can't be it. Even with the remote I have for it, it takes several presses to get the door to open/close. I don't think the opener has rolling code since I don't see any buttons on the back of the housing.
 

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did you try pressing and holding?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I held the homelink I button and the remote button and kept getting the message that it did not train. I tried that a couple times then tried the holding the homelink I button and pressing the remote button every 2 seconds, but again it still would not train.
 

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I have a rather ancient Genie system too (with a rectangular remote about the size of 1/2 pack of cigarettes and 2 buttons). Following the instructions in the manual worked for me, but it took a couple of tries.

Best,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the remote that I use, I tried again today and still it won't train.




 

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Even though you can't.. these old remotes are so easy to duplicate; they offer almost no protection for your garage. I'd just go to Home Depot and get a new Garage door opener receiver and transmitter -- one with the newer Code "rotating" technology for extra security. Then train that one.

They are not expensive and should just bolt on to your existing opener.

I did it when I purchased my home.
 

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Even many older garage door openers were use intellicode for their transmitters. In order to get them to work properly, you have to first program the transmitter into your HomeLink per the owner's manual. You will then have to follow the directions to programming your garage door opend.

For my Genie system, I have a small box tied to the garage door motor. On the box is a button that has to be depressed for approximately two seconds until I get the LED flashing. Now, I press the HomeLink button and the Genie receiver recognizes the intellicode for this device and allows it to operate the garage door.

In order to open my garage door, I have to press and hold the HomeLink button for about 1-2 seconds before it will open the garage door.
 

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Even many older garage door openers were use intellicode for their transmitters. In order to get them to work properly, you have to first program the transmitter into your HomeLink per the owner's manual. You will then have to follow the directions to programming your garage door opend.

For my Genie system, I have a small box tied to the garage door motor. On the box is a button that has to be depressed for approximately two seconds until I get the LED flashing. Now, I press the HomeLink button and the Genie receiver recognizes the intellicode for this device and allows it to operate the garage door.

In order to open my garage door, I have to press and hold the HomeLink button for about 1-2 seconds before it will open the garage door.
The procedure that you are describing is for the newest (rolling code) of the 3 generations of garage door remotes. I imagine that his "old remote" is the second generation (with the dip switches). The procedure is well described in the manual.. but it sounds like he has tried that, and it is not working.

If SupremeG doesn't have the rolling code (typically with a red button at the opener -- not the remote) or the 2nd generation (with the dip switches) then he has a really old first generation. I doubt that the first generation is supported by Home Link -- but I don't really know. If it is, the procedure for setting it up would be the same as for the second generation.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garage_door_opener



Edit: One additional point. Open the remote and check if it has the dip switches. If it does, it is the 2nd generation (i.e., not rolling code). When you train HomeLink, do it in or near the garage. If the garage opens or closes, then you know that you had a good signal and HomeLink should have learned it. If HomeLink didn't learn - and the door opened or closed.. you have an incompatible remote, and I maintain my original suggestion to upgrate your receiver to a rolling code system. You don't have to change the garage door motor or anything else to do this.. just the receiver.
 

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I don't have any tips for you, but I thought I'd mention my garage door opener is a pretty old Craftsman & it works with Homelink. There has to be a way for it to hook up for you.
 

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I understand you have followed the directions in the manual? I don't see any mention in your post that you cleared the homelink first by pressing the two outside buttons and holding them untill it rapidly blinks prior to trying to program the button by simultaneously holding the button you want to program and the garage door opener until it blinks rapidly.

You mentioned that it sometimes takes a couple of pushes of your remote to open the door so may be there is a problem with the transmitter. Hope this helps.
 

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I don't see any mention in your post that you cleared the homelink first by pressing the two outside buttons and holding them untill it rapidly blinks prior to trying to program the button by simultaneously holding the button you want to program and the garage door opener until it blinks rapidly.
It's been awhile since I've read the manual (and I'm too lasy to pull it out now)
but I don't think you need to clear it first -- though it wouldn't hurt. Clearing it is really more of "I'm selling my car and I don't want to give the buyer access to my garage" feature.
 

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I mentioned it becuase that is the first step, in the manual, of how to "program" it. It is worth a try at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yes, I cleared the Channels by pressing the I and III homelink buttons and getting the EVIC message saying so. I'm not sure what generation garage door I have, only thing I know about it is that it's model number 409. Here are some pictures of the opener





 

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Discussion Starter #14
Edit: One additional point. Open the remote and check if it has the dip switches. If it does, it is the 2nd generation (i.e., not rolling code). When you train HomeLink, do it in or near the garage. If the garage opens or closes, then you know that you had a good signal and HomeLink should have learned it. If HomeLink didn't learn - and the door opened or closed.. you have an incompatible remote, and I maintain my original suggestion to upgrate your receiver to a rolling code system. You don't have to change the garage door motor or anything else to do this.. just the receiver.
When I open up the remote, under the button I press I see a small, thin, and long piece of what I assume is copper. One end is connected to the battery and the other is free to move up and down, when it comes down it touches a nipple that complete's the circuit.

 

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The model that you have is very similar to the model in my last house. The small box with the wire hanging off is your receiver. The small wire is the actual antenna. If you take the cover off this box, you should see a button on this unit that I mentioned before.
 

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Here is what I did.

-First clear channels by holding the outer buttons for 20 seconds
-Hold the Garage remote next to any home link button
-Press the remote and Homelink button at the same time, It will train.
-Press the "learning button" on your garage opener unit.
-now press/hold/release your homelink button for two seconds, a second time and a third time
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thats the problem, I can't get Homelink to train with the remote, I'm constantly getting the message that it did not train.
 

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You have the second generation system -- which should work. If you are following the directions in your manual (not the newer rolling code directions) it should work.

If that doesn't work (and even if it does -- for security) I still recommend
getting a replacement, rolling code, receiver (to replace the the black box strapped to the ceiling). The wiring is extremely simple, I have replaced mine and I am electronically challenged. Basically, the replacement box will have two wires that will get connected to the screws that are visible in the first picture of the opener motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you are following the directions in your manual (not the newer rolling code directions) it should work.
Which one, holding both buttons at the same time or holding the homelink I button and pressing the remote button every two seconds?
 

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Which one, holding both buttons at the same time or holding the homelink I button and pressing the remote button every two seconds?
From the manual with my comments in bold

Step 1 should not be needed but will not hurt -- it erases everything.


1. Press and hold the two outer HomeLink buttons, and
release only when the EVIC display shows “Channels
Cleared” (after 20 seconds). Do not hold the buttons for
longer than 30 seconds and do not repeat step one to
program a second and/or third hand-held transmitter to
the remaining two HomeLink buttons.

These are the steps that are crucial for your system


2. Position the end of your hand-held transmitter 1-3
inches (3-8 cm) away from the HomeLink buttons.

3. Simultaneously press and hold both the HomeLink
button that you want to train and the hand-held transmitter
buttons. Do not release the buttons until step 4
has been completed.

4. The EVIC display will show “Channel X Training”
(where X is Channel 1, 2, or 3). Release both buttons after
the EVIC display shows “Channel X Trained”.
NOTE: If the EVIC display shows “Did Not Train”
repeat steps 2–4.

5. Press and hold the just trained HomeLink button and
observe the EVIC display. If the EVIC display shows
“Channel X Transmit” (where X is Channel 1, 2, or 3),
programming is complete and your device should activate
when the HomeLink button is pressed and released.

In my manual the next comment is about multiple buttons. N/A
And the next comment and instructions (steps 6-8) are for 'rolling code' systems, which yours is not, so you can disregard those.

2 thru 5 above are all you should need to do.
 
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