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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anyone know what i would need to hook up an aftermarket amp to the factory "media center 430" touch screen radio? i've installed many radios/amps/speakers/etc... but i haven't looked at the back of the factory radio to see what kind of outputs it has for an external amp. normally, the first thing i would do is take out the factory radio and put in an aftermarket system, but the new touch screens are pretty damn nice (can you say hard drive?!?!)...anywho, ive decided it stays...and the stock BA speakers/amp are decent enough...i just gotta have that low end "punch" :) i heard the stock "13 speaker" - yea right - kicker set-up and was very NOT impressed. so basically, do i need an amp that has hi level inputs? or does the HU have a low level sub out (ideal)??? if i wanted a low level out, is there a kit (hi level outs suck w/amps)? or would the converter at the amp input be sufficient? i'm looking at the kenwood excelon X1200M which does not have hi level in's or MTX thunder elite 801D with speaker level in's and would prefer the kenwood - would the kenwood even be possible? i would require either a low level sub out, or a hi-to-low converter spliced off most likely the rear speakers.

note: i wanna keep things as "factory" as possible for the warranty and insurance purposes, so i don't wanna do anything "destructive."
 

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i would require either a low level sub out, or a hi-to-low converter spliced off most likely the rear speakers.

note: i wanna keep things as "factory" as possible for the warranty and insurance purposes, so i don't wanna do anything "destructive."
I've done this on two different Chargers and it's a very simple installation since everything necessary is already in the trunk. First time was with an '08 Daytona without the stock Kicker Sub and the second was on my '09 Bee with the Kicker. I used an Alpine MRP-M1000 mono amp mostly because it has both pre-amp and speaker level inputs. Without the Kicker you can splice into the rear deck sub wires straight to the amp. With the Kicker sub I spliced into the speaker feed wires before the stock sub amp (also in the rear deck). I used a Boston Acoustics SPG555ss sub with its own enclosure (about $600) that fits nicely in the trunk without taking up too much usable space.

Takes about 1/2 hour to install and about 2 minutes to remove.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Heres the Pac Audio adapter for adding amp to factory radio
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
unfortunately, i want to keep the factory amp for the main speakers. this looks like it would work if i wanted to add my own amp to the main speakers and also add a sub amp, but for what i have in mind....not sure this would work. maybe i am missing something??

Without the Kicker you can splice into the rear deck sub wires straight to the amp
i got the boston accoustic x7 speaker system (x6?? or is there a center channel i can't hear??) do all the chargers have "the rear deck sub wires" pre-wired??? not sure exacty what you are talking about here...

also, i guess that means there is no low level (sub) out from the stock head unit?? as i mentioned before, i would prefer the kenwood amp, but it does not have hi-level in's...either way - i think i can still get that amp and just get a line converter. now i just gotta find this mysterious rear deck sub wire(s) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh, forgot to ask:

how much power is going to that sub wire? the converters ive seen run between 50W and 80W input. if its 100W or more, then i gotta think of something else. actually, im not even sure the MTX amp i was looking at could take 100W input...any "input" on this matter ? :)
 

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i got the boston accoustic x7 speaker system (x6?? or is there a center channel i can't hear??) do all the chargers have "the rear deck sub wires" pre-wired??? not sure exacty what you are talking about here...

also, i guess that means there is no low level (sub) out from the stock head unit?? as i mentioned before, i would prefer the kenwood amp, but it does not have hi-level in's...either way - i think i can still get that amp and just get a line converter. now i just gotta find this mysterious rear deck sub wire(s) :)
The '08 Daytona didn't have a Kicker, but it had a smaller sub in the rear deck. You wouldn't know it was there unless someone told you and you can't see it unless you drop the cover from the rear deck speakers. I believe the wires to the sub are low level out from the stock head unit. It doesn't matter on the Alpine amp as long as the wires are providing speaker level output. If you use converters, these are still the wires you would splice into.
I assume a 7 speaker BA system would have the sub in the rear deck.

The '09 Bee has a Kicker and the factory amp for the Kicker is in the same place the sub was in the Daytona. Again, there are outputs from the stock head unit into the amp and those wires are the ones you would splice into.

It shouldn't matter if you use converters or not. Amps with speaker level inputs make it easier, not necessarily better.
 

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oh, forgot to ask:

how much power is going to that sub wire? the converters ive seen run between 50W and 80W input. if its 100W or more, then i gotta think of something else. actually, im not even sure the MTX amp i was looking at could take 100W input...any "input" on this matter ? :)
That's a good question. I'm pretty sure it was a minimal speaker level output. It didn't cause any problems with the Alpine amp...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i started looking into this again and found other mentions of the PAC C2A-CHY3. question: will this device allow me to [ADD] a subwoofer amp to my factory setup, or does this device simply allow you to [REPLACE] the factory amp with an aftermarket?

from the schematic on the PAC website, it looks like it might be possible to run both the factory amp, and an aftermarket - for additional sub-bass (which is what i want to do) off the C2A-CHY3. and the install looks very easy - with the exception of running the RCA cables to the trunk (which isn't necessarily "hard," just time consuming...

is there anyone who has used one of these (PAC C2A-CHY3) that might be better able to answer my question?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no one has ever used one of these? if anyone has any input, i would love to hear it!!
 

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I've done this on two different Chargers and it's a very simple installation since everything necessary is already in the trunk. First time was with an '08 Daytona without the stock Kicker Sub and the second was on my '09 Bee with the Kicker. I used an Alpine MRP-M1000 mono amp mostly because it has both pre-amp and speaker level inputs. Without the Kicker you can splice into the rear deck sub wires straight to the amp. With the Kicker sub I spliced into the speaker feed wires before the stock sub amp (also in the rear deck). I used a Boston Acoustics SPG555ss sub with its own enclosure (about $600) that fits nicely in the trunk without taking up too much usable space.

Takes about 1/2 hour to install and about 2 minutes to remove.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
What did you use for a speaker wiring diagram, I couldnt figure it out so took it to a stereo shop, but I would like to know if I want to change something up?
 

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trying to install a sub

Im trying to install a sub in my 2009 Daytona, but haven't done anything like this before, so before i do, I would like to get some tips on how to do it, and where the amp is.
 

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The Factory Amp is under the front Driver side Dash. If you have one. What kind of Sub are you wanting to add?
 
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