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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is throwing code P2767:
2007 Charger R/T
64K miles
Transmission W5A580 (Mercedes 5-speed)

First off, the help I’ve received thus far has been awesome. The front-end clunk went away after replacing the torsion beams as recommended.

The next issue the car has is a transmission problem. The car feels like it’s shifting with a locked-up torque converter. The shifts are really hard at part throttle, she’s not happy. The computer is throwing code: P2767-Input Sensor 2 Circuit- NO signal. The high speed input sensor has gone bad. The first time this happened was about 18 months ago, then 12 months ago, and now I can’t really drive it with out it happening.

I paid $109.88 to the dealership to run a diagnostic and make sure it was the input sensor, they confirmed it as such. That same dealer is quoting $721.31 to make the repair.

The sensor is located on top of the valve body which requires that the valve body be replaced. The replacement part listed is 52108308AB $262, the upper valve body assembly.

My first question regarding the replacement part is: can’t I just get the sensor purchased rather then buying the whole dang upper valve body?

Secondly, has anyone lowered a transmission valve body before, can someone run through the procedure with me? I’ve got as far as only servicing the transmission but that’s it.

This is a $3,500 transmission and it needs to be serviced properly but can’t replace the sensor myself and save $600?

Service manual as an FYI (search P2767):
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20HEMI%20Tech/2005%2061%20hemi%20trans.pdf

If anyone has access I would like to see the “NAg1/electrohydraulic Unit – disassembly manual”, I would like to read how or maybe find the correct part number there.
I do not know specifically which input sensor needs to replace but I do understand that this is the one that sits on top of the valve body. Possible input sensor N3?

Any help would be appreciated, I would really like to fidn the correct part number for the sensor so I don't have to get the whole valve body.

Thanks a million!
Brady
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTW,
Our transmission the W5A580:
1. W = A transmission using a hydraulic torque converter.
2. 5 = 5 forward gears.
3. A = Automatic Transmission.
4. 580 = Maximum input torque capacity in Newton meters.:rocker:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You guys suck, no responses! I guess I better do a write up.
After going into limp mode on the freeway last night I decided to dig into the bloody guts of my Charger.
I took out the bad sensor last night after dropping the valve body. I’ll do a step by step after I finish it tonight. Everything was fairly easy except for the damn wiring harness connector. There is actually a nut that is inside the plug between the sensor board plug and the plug/seal that runs through the housing. It’s seems to be a 7mm bolt that you loosen first before you drop the valve body. You remove the bolt from inside of the plug/seal from the exterior side. With out that knowledge I destroyed the board and seal removing both. Everything else was easy. No linkages to disconnect or anything else. I would highly recommend that you prop up the end of the tranny and remove the cross brace so you have lots of room.

Here’s the shopping list for tonight:
Connector Board -Part Number 52108308AB (includes the bad input sensor) $188 with employee discount from dealer, $262 retail. AutoZone also stocks a replacement (SU11036) for $163. Mopar Parts America also sells the part for $148 with $17 shipping.
Seal/Plug for transmission wiring harness $9.50
5.3 quarts of ATF4.
Not replacing filter as I just did it two months ago.
My only question that remains is do I buy the transmission dip stick or just take it to the dealer when I’m done?

It looks like I’m going to save $500 just doing it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also,
I'm going to go with $15 Mercedes Transmission Electrical plug Adapter with O-rings #203 540 02 53. It supposedly does not leak like the Mopar part.

I'm also springing for the Mercedes Dipstick tool for $70, #140 589 15 21 00. The third mark form the bottom is for cool fluid, the forth mark from bottom is for operating temp. Having a stupid dip stick will save me a lot of worries.
 

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It looks like you didnt need anybodys help.It seems like you know what your doing.Good Luck checking the tranny fluid.
 

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Don't need a dipstick......it's 6 qts with a pan and valvebody drop.
 

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fantastic job

I am having an exact same problem. Found this post and it has saved me a lot of headaches. I cant find the autozone part the but the person I was talking to on the phone seemed a bit slow.
 

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What is the process to put in a real dipstick? It would be nice to be able to check the fluid.
 

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BradyB - I know the bad input sensor work was done several months ago, but could you provide some more detail - re: your steps to get it done. I have to do the smae thing this week. Thanks. Appreciate it.
 

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Hi, I get the same code in my 2006 Charger R/T police edition. My car works fine for most of the time, but sometimes when I stop on a traffic light and try to go again, it feels like the car is stuck in a high gear. At this time, if I switch to sequencial it shows 5th gear and it doesn't change when i try to shift down. If i kill the engine and turn it on again everything starts working ok.
I checked the part number you gave us in your post and got this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2059168

for $216.79 from rockauto.com

however it says it's a part for 2007 models.

If i look for a speed sensor for my 2006 charger I get this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1190338

which is an output sensor, not input sensor.
Do you think this could solve my problem?
 

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The lead frame is over top of the valve body. This lead frame contains all the sensors and circuits that are part of the trans. Replace this and you solve the problem
 

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So did u end up finding the bad sensor
I have the same exact problem, do you think it's the plate ?
I just dropped the valve body but couldn't fibd anything wrong with it. So I just replaced the soaked socket and refilled the fluid.
 

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Late entry. Dealer just quoted me $980 to replace parts to solve the same problem. So of course I'm thinking about doing the work myself. And of course charged my wife $115 to tell her what I had her tell them (the codes, the issue, etc) instead of just giving her a quote.

How long did the job take you? I'd be doing this on a 2005 Magnum RT.
 

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If its the one im thinking about its at the top of the bell housing on the trans. Held on with a 10mm or 8mm i forget. You can reach up there and get it with a swivel.
 
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