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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
The seals sit recessed valley. I feel like they would not seal properly with the damage I see.
If course they manifolds are all on back order or charging a ridiculous number not wanting to pay 1100 dollars on top of what I already have to pay the mechanic shop. So porting it isn’t an option? And you don’t think it would do good enough until I can get a new manifold?
 

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If course they manifolds are all on back order or charging a ridiculous number not wanting to pay 1100 dollars on top of what I already have to pay the mechanic shop. So porting it isn’t an option? And you don’t think it would do good enough until I can get a new manifold?
Fb groups are good source. Or car-part.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
That way I can at least get it to my house out of the shop and to and from work until I can find an intake? Also what would cause the plastics around the gaskets to melt like that?
 

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That way I can at least get it to my house out of the shop and to and from work until I can find an intake? Also what would cause the plastics around the gaskets to melt like that?
Well, couldnt run any worse than did before. But I feel you will save alot of money doing it yourself.

Sepcially when they say a $10 seal kit is 90 damn dollars. Man I would be so pissed. In fact I am pissed for you.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Well, couldnt run any worse than did before. But I feel you will save alot of money doing it yourself.

Sepcially when they say a $10 seal kit is 90 damn dollars. Man I would be so pissed. In fact I am pissed for you.
Yeah I’m not happy about tbag the rest of the experience and customer service has been great so far not too happy with that though. I just want the car back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·

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Well shit Lmao if you were local I’d bring it to you! 😂

Just note, I've joined a few buy sell groups on FB see if I can find a intake cheap for you. wsill let you know if anything comes of it. asking for one thats naked, aka nothing on it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Another update they’re saying I need a new motor that replaced the manifold and gaskets and said it’s backfiring through the manifold and that’s why the bottom of it looked as bad as it did because at some point it overheated (which I’ve never had happen since I’ve owned the car..) and stretched the timing chain and the timing is out of sync and saying I’d need a new motor… what do y’all think? Does it make sense? I’m honestly blown away and 100% bummed out at this point
 

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Another update they’re saying I need a new motor that replaced the manifold and gaskets and said it’s backfiring through the manifold and that’s why the bottom of it looked as bad as it did because at some point it overheated (which I’ve never had happen since I’ve owned the car..) and stretched the timing chain and the timing is out of sync and saying I’d need a new motor… what do y’all think? Does it make sense? I’m honestly blown away and 100% bummed out at this point
Get another shop to look at it that doesn't want to charger $100 bucks for a $10 gasket set. Overheating is not going to stretch the timing set.............Melting the intake yes if you really push it at which point it will kill the engine.


Just going off what you have told us they are raking you over some coals and trying to do some other stuff without spitting first. Jesus Christ. Makes we wanna come up there to hear this shit in person.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Get another shop to look at it that doesn't want to charger $100 bucks for a $10 gasket set. Overheating is not going to stretch the timing set.............Melting the intake yes if you really push it at which point it will kill the engine.


Just going off what you have told us they are raking you over some coals and trying to do some other stuff without spitting first. Jesus Christ. Makes we wanna come up there to hear this shit in person.
They’ve already done the gaskets and put the manifold back on then said that’s when they started the car and noticed it backfiring through the manifold and that the heat stretched the timing chain and it’s out of timing with everything and therefore needs a new motor the car never once overheated on me which he said is what would’ve had to happen. I’ve never had it backfire either… that I know of it would occasionally pop from exhaust but it was aftermarket and mds would kick on and off etc I’m just confused how this came about all of a sudden I’m wanting to take it to get a second opinion for sure. You don’t think this was pushed to the point of killing the engine tho? I mean I will say on some downshifts when braking the car felt like it might downshift hard sometimes but that’s not timing that’s trans right? And that doesn’t correlate? Only other thing is I did have a CEL for the thermostat saying the car wasn’t getting to operating temp fast enough. That wouldn’t cause it would it? I’m honestly just lost and blindsided by this.
 

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Do not bother with the codes, you clearly tried to run it too many times, the battery is struggling, I would advise you either hook the battery to a charger or replace the battery completely.
I'm pretty sure it is not related to sensors either, if it was a bad sensor the car would start up and die.
If the car dies while driving I assure you it is not related to the battery otherwise the car would have a warning that the battery is not charging.
I am 99% sure it is the fuel pump, if you want to test it here is how:
1- get a small plastic bottle and fill it with a bit of fuel
2- make some small holes at the top
3- remove the air intake hose
4- have someone crank the car and fuel spray very lightly into the throttle body.

if the car starts then its the fuel pump, start with the relays and fuses before going for the fuel pump .. but from my experience its most likely the pump.
 

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Do not bother with the codes, you clearly tried to run it too many times, the battery is struggling, I would advise you either hook the battery to a charger or replace the battery completely.
I'm pretty sure it is not related to sensors either, if it was a bad sensor the car would start up and die.
If the car dies while driving I assure you it is not related to the battery otherwise the car would have a warning that the battery is not charging.
I am 99% sure it is the fuel pump, if you want to test it here is how:
1- get a small plastic bottle and fill it with a bit of fuel
2- make some small holes at the top
3- remove the air intake hose
4- have someone crank the car and fuel spray very lightly into the throttle body.

if the car starts then its the fuel pump, start with the relays and fuses before going for the fuel pump .. but from my experience its most likely the pump.

Have you read anything in this thread?
 
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