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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wife was driving the car she said it basically just died. Not sure what is going on with it. No signs of the battery being low beforehand unless it just died out of nowhere tried to jump it from the hood about to try the trunk as I’m still on the side of the road. I’ll post a video in a second thanks in advance!
 

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the red lightning bolt usually indicates a faulty throttle body. Run a code scan on it. I think there is a “key dance” sequence you can do and it’ll pop up codes on the dash and you can just google the code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the red lightning bolt usually indicates a faulty throttle body. Run a code scan on it. I think there is a “key dance” sequence you can do and it’ll pop up codes on the dash and you can just google the code.
That’s what I thought too is there anything I can do to troubleshoot it to at least get it home? I walked to a auto zone to get a OBD reader in about to walk back over there and get the codes trying to avoid getting it towed.
 

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We really can't help from where we are without the codes. Anything else is a shot in the dark....minus the tbody light. That just means there's an issue with the throttle system...tbody, throttle position sensor/ gas pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We really can't help from where we are without the codes. Anything else is a shot in the dark....minus the tbody light. That just means there's an issue with the throttle system...tbody, throttle position sensor/ gas pedal.
My bad didn’t realize I didn’t post them. The thermostat code has been there but other than that couple different codes came up C121C-00 - “torque request signal denied” which makes me think the sensor for the throttle is possibly bad and shut the car down? Other than that
P2172 : High Airflow/Vacuum Leak Detected (Instantaneous Accumulation)
P0038 : 02 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit High
P0058 : 02 Sensor 2/2 Heater Circuit High no other codes and those 3 were labeled “secondary DTCs” Im lost honestly spent 5 hours in the side of the road trying to figure out what it could be unplugged and plugged in map sensor took intake and tube off to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to try and get a spark to see if it was the fuel pump still wouldn’t turn. Tried jumping it. Wanted to disconnect the battery to try a reset but didn’t have a ratchet with me and I tried the pedal reset nothing ended up pushing it to a gas station for the night unfortunately couldn’t get a tow and going to try and get it to a shop tomorrow or Sunday
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The c121c-00, according to the Google, is ABS related and is cause by excessive load on engine, a bad ABS module or a faulty PCM.

Sounds like you might be better off to let a shop that can completely diagnose it do it.
I wonder what excessive load on the engine would be? I don’t dog it I damn sure don’t tote heavy shit around most I’ve done lately was my daughter got a trampoline for her birthday last week and had it in the trunk for a 10 min drive so doubt that would be it. Would that cause the car to shut down like this though? What do you think about the rest of it? I’m honestly baffled by it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’ll definitely let the shop diagnose it and figure it out from there what I can afford and what I want to do idk why the PCM would be bad it’s stock no tune (yet) etc as for the ABS module idk about that how it would happen or what would cause it etc
 

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I’ll definitely let the shop diagnose it and figure it out from there what I can afford and what I want to do idk why the PCM would be bad it’s stock no tune (yet) etc as for the ABS module idk about that how it would happen or what would cause it etc
I did a little more digging. The P2172 MIGHT be a MAP sensor and may have caused the shut down/ subsequent codes. The O2 codes are trivial. They wouldn't be the reason for the shut down, but could be set by the vacuum leak.

One caused the other and it's hard to say which did it without being there to diagnose it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did a little more digging. The P2172 MIGHT be a MAP sensor and may have caused the shut down/ subsequent codes. The O2 codes are trivial. They wouldn't be the reason for the shut down, but could be set by the vacuum leak.

One caused the other and it's hard to say which did it without being there to diagnose it.
So I should replace the map sensor first before anything just to double check? I unplugged it and plugged it back in while out there today and it still didn’t turn over but idk maybe it’s fried or too dirty to make it work?
 

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So I should replace the map sensor first before anything just to double check? I unplugged it and plugged it back in while out there today and it still didn’t turn over but idk maybe it’s fried or too dirty to make it work?
Usually when they go bad, they give some warning like bucking or bad idle before they just stop.

I'd honestly just let the shop diagnose it to make sure it was the MAP sensor that Amber Hearded your ride.
 

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I would investigate into that “vacuum leak”. Look around the intake manifold and inspect all air hoses connected to the intake manifold for cracks or if any might be disconnected.

edit-I would start with the brake booster hose that connects to the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Usually when they go bad, they give some warning like bucking or bad idle before they just stop.

I'd honestly just let the shop diagnose it to make sure it was the MAP sensor that Amber Hearded your ride.
Lmao alright I appreciate it. I’m just hoping it’s cheap and easy and I can get my car back soon.
 
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