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Discussion Starter #1
Ugh! I purchased my Charger last summer from a police department. They said it had dropped a valve or something similar. The engine was disassembled when I picked it up, and one of the pistons is destroyed as well as the head (looks like something got into the cylinder).

I finally found an engine for it on Craigslist. I had been expecting to spend around $1800 or so for a running one from a salvage yard, but this one came up for $900 and was about 2.5 hours away. A friend of mine lived there, so he offered to pick it up and pay for it. He had talked the guy down to $760.

The story on this engine was that the guy purchased it for his Durango, but when he went to put it in, he noticed that it was missing the bolt holes for the transfer case. He then figured that the engine had come from a Charger/300C/Magnum and listed it on craigslist. The engine has a 4 month warranty left from where he purchased it.

I drive to pick it up, load the engine, and bring it home (with much trouble, as my 7.3 Powerstroke decided to be really temperamental the entire trip, but that's another story). After getting it off the truck, I went outside and grabbed the parts that were in the Charger. I immediately noticed that the intake was different. I also noticed that my old block had solenoids in the valley, which I assume to be for the MDS. ****.

I've built several 6G72TT's and 4G63's and even a Honda engine once (for a ~50MPG project car), but I have absolutely no clue about the LX engine or the differences.

So, the question is.. what ARE the differences? Can I transfer the MDS to the new engine; is it even necessary? Is there any difference in cam profile, bore/stroke, compression ratio? I noticed the front case will have to be transferred over as well, since they seem different. In short... what do I need to do to get this to fit into, and run with, my 06 Charger? It is to be noted that I have the LX engine service manual as well.

ALSO!! How the HECK do you mount this thing to an engine stand? There are two eyelets that will support something about M14/M16 and four bolt holes on the transmission side of it, but they are seriously ~M12 size, and I would absolutely never trust an engine this heavy to two sufficient bolts and two tiny ones.

Thanks in advance for your responses, guys :) Oh, and here's a picture next to some of my other cars:

 

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You will need to swap intakes, oil pan, front timing cover. Sounds like your new engine is out of a truck. Not a big deal If you want to keep MDS you will also need to swap lifters for the mds cylinders. Unless you want to put a cam in it....
 

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curious...... what color is the block on the used motor you just bought???? orange or black??? pics of what you have would also be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's black. I just got home from the shop, so I'll take some pics for you tomorrow of the engine I have and the one that came out of it. The previous engine was black as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some more pictures... I made a boo boo trying to get the crank pulley off :\ It's fused onto the crankshaft... broke the chunk off using a jaw puller. I guess I'll heat it or something since I have to remove it to get the front case off. I guarandamntee they're not cheap to replace though.

Also... how the HECK do you mount these things to an engine stand?????
 

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Take the oil pan,front cover valve covers,exhaust manifolds off your old motor. If you convert the new motor to MDS then you will need to pull the heads off both and swap the lifters. While the heads are off and the lifters are out, remove the small bolts holding the MDS solenoids in place and put air on the small hole next to the lifter hold down screw hole. This will pop the MDS solenoids out without damaging them. Make sure the o-rings are not nicked and lube them good before putting them in the new motor. You will need new head gaskets and head bolts. Once done put all external pieces from the old motor onto the new one EXCEPT THE INTAKE MANIFOLD!!!!! You will need a new one!!!! There is debris traped inside from the blown motor that cannot be removed and it will wind up in the new motor.
Mounting to the engine stand is easy. Use the 4 holes across the top. The block uses a 3/8" x 16 bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It cranked pretty hard on the stand as well. I have another engine on the stand (half apart) that cranks much easier. I'm thinking whoever put this one together tightened the rod or main caps too tight, or there is possibly rust in the cylinders. I was just unsure since I've never dealt with this type of engine, so I figured it may have been normal - til I got it into the car and turned the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pulling the heads would mean getting new head bolts and head gaskets... at that point, I might as well just tear the whole thing down and spec the engine :p
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I started the engine today after soaking the cylinders in PB Blaster for awhile then lubricating with WD-40 (so my oil is pretty damn contaminated). I was pumped when the engine fired up, though it didn't have manifolds on it. Being that I hadn't done this engine R&R before, I wasn't sure whether I should have the exhaust manifolds on. Immediately after bolting it to the trans and getting the mounts on, I realized I should have put them on prior to installation.

Issue is, this problem was two-fold. The engine has to come back out... every. single. stud. is snapped off in the head, except for two of them. So I have to weld a bunch of nuts on to get them out, and I sure as hell can't do that with the engine in the car (not nearly enough room, especially on the passenger side).

Sooo... poop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I'm not sure. They were snapped before I got it - I just didn't look at the head prior to installing. I should have installed them on the stand - then I would have seen it.

BTW, just noticed you're LE as well ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After pulling the engine again (which only took me little more than an hour...), I noticed a big issue. I noticed upon pulling it that there were no broken studs (well, there were two..) as I had previously thought.

I placed the manifold up to the head and noticed that the bolt holes didn't line up. This lead to a WTF moment - the manifolds would go on the other way, facing forward, but not the way they were supposed to. Then I got to thinking...

I checked AllData for the EGR system and noticed the port in the head was to be above the alternator. Suddenly things became clear to me. It made sense as to why when I mocked up the EGR, it wouldn't reach the intake (Why isn't this port on the back, I said to myself).

The freaking heads are swapped. Someone rebuilt this engine and didn't even put the heads in the correct place... How can you mess that up? Not only was the engine incredibly tight, but this as well.

If you have someone watching over you, that's one thing - if you call yourself "D.S. Performance" and sell a "rebuilt engine" to SOMEONE ELSE, that's another.

Long story short, I will never again deal with an engine that I didn't build myself, unless it's from the factory. Could have saved myself a ton of money by buying the 5.7 hemi from a friend of mine that had a blown piston and replaced it with parts I had for a grand total of $150, which is what I'm doing today anyway :p

I'll try to get the other engine built and back in tonight. Here's hoping for some good news in the future!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, in pulling the heads, I decided that this engine couldn't be trusted. Whoever put it together couldn't even figure out which head goes where, so I couldn't trust that anything was even tightened properly... I decided to strip the engine down.

After pulling the oil pan, I grabbed all of the rods and gave them a shake back and forth. I removed the pistons after doing this. Four spun rod bearings. Four.

With the pistons and rods removed, I went to turn the crank again. Way. Too. Tight. I loosened the main bolts, but was unable to remove the main caps. One of the mains actually had a TON of sludge on it when I pulled it out (left bank closest to oil pump). With the mains loosened, the crank was still tough to turn. You should be able to spin a crank by hand at that stage...
 
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