Well, seeing as no one replied, I figured i would send an update to see if anyone has any other ideas. The dealer has changed the above part numbers and the rattle is still there. And it only happens at low speeds over the smaller bumps in the road. If its a big bump, the rattle/clunk is not there. Also, it is only noticeable with the window open.

Thanks
Xian

 

Hate that nobody replied, I am having the same problem. Did you ever get a hand on it?

 

Sounds like the outer tie rods. I had the same issues and replacing the outer tie rod fixed it.
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38103

 

Sounds like the outer tie rods. I had the same issues and replacing the outer tie rod fixed it.

X 2
I had the same thing. Mine got so bad the wheel shook when braking, the harder I broke, the worse it shook. I've heard about this a lot on our cars.

 

Thanks for the reply guys! I'll have them check at next service.

Xian

 

ive got this issue too, i want to know how to get rid of it

 

I'm not sure if were talking about the same thing but yesterday when I took off my front bumper cover, I noticed this black things that hangs freely on the bumper. I think its called bumper support? but yea I put a lot of 2 way tape so that it sticks to the cover, I have not heard the banging/clicking since I out that tape on. I mean we could possibly talking about 2 whole different problems but just thought Id mention it any ways.....

 

I have the same problem but its more of a metalic clanking it rattles for a second or 2 after a bump and its getting progressively worse. I have 48K miles

 

Yes my 2008 does that to.

 

I have some interior noise but mine are more like squeals. it seems to be coming from my dash and rear dash. i haven't heard anything outside the cabin.

 

I think I have determined this to be loose brake pads. They are about 25% left so they have worn down a bit. Next oil change will change brakes and rotors so this will make it clear what the problem is.

Xian

 

I think you are wright about the brake pads making the noise. I have tryed pressing on the brake and gas to keep the car going over the bumps and when I do the rattle is gone. I dont think it is the pads. There are some anti rattel springs on the calipers that are supose to keep the pads from ratteling. The heat from braking distorts them and they dont apply pressure to the pads anymore. I tryed to get them from the dealer but was told I had to buy the calipers to get them. The calipers are $199.99 Ea. I found them at shucks auto parts for $16.00 you have to buy them seperatly for the front and rear. Shucks is also known as O!REILY AUTO PARTS. part number for the front one is H5765Q they are made by carlson . You can order them online if you dont have a store near you. You could also googel and get a phone number if you need to talk to them. I have not put mine on yet but hope to do it tomarrow. Iam not sure if it makes any differance but my pads are only about half worn so Iam not going to replace the pads yet. If the springs bythemselves dont stop it I will put on new pads too. hope this helps let us know what you do and how it comes out. I will let you know how it went after I install the antirattel springs

 

your wright about the pads. You need new antirattle springs they keep the pads in place and dont allow them to rattle. You can not get them from the dealer unless you buy the calipers $199.99 ea. You can get them from shucks or O!reily auto parts. They are $16.00 and the part number for the front ones is H5765Q they are made by Carlson. hope this helps.

 

Mine has started rattling like you described, and it's different than the tie rod noise. It's pretty loud, it sounds like the wheel is going to fall off. I'm at 38K, so maybe it's time to look at those brake pads...

 

front end rattle



I bought the antirattle sprins but have not put them in yet. My pads are only half worn. Iam going to put the new springs in and hope it dose the trick without haveing to put on new pads. These brakes are a real pain in the butt. I had my rotors turned and the shop took them off the car to do them. Chrysler says they should be done on the car. I got the car back and found that when I turned to go into my driveway with light brake pressure I got a chuck chuck sound uneven rubbing sound. I looked on the net and found that if they did not indexed the rotors properly it would do this. I took the car back and told them they had not indexed the rotors properly. They redid them and they were ok after that. Because of the stabilazation program the pads run close to the rotors all the time. Any little thing out of wack and you get irratating noises. It dosent affect how well the brakes work but drives you crazy.

 

I had a similiar rattle, but it had nothing to do with suspension or drivetrain. Believe it or not it was something looses with the hood hinge. It was under warranty so the dealewr replaced it no cost. Fixed the problem.

 

ball joints are the problem change them and you'll never have that problem again

 

n Sorry but your wrong its the brake pads rattleing. Maybe yours was coming from the ball joints but the rattle Iam getting is coming from the brake pads. I know this because I have applied the brakes while going over the bumps with a little gas pedal so the car keeps going. When I do that the rattle gos away. As soon as I let off the brakes it comes back. I have had worn tierod ends and they make a noise too. But all suspenion parts have been checked at the dealer and are good. Thats why I tryed pressing on the brake pedal to see if it would go away. It did. I bought the new brake pads and antirattle sprins and will install them tomarrow.

 

I have the same problem on my 2006 Daytona. I had it in the dealer 4 times and they changed every part on the front end including the ball joints. It was under warranty and the time but now has 40,000 on it. Although changing the parts including the shocks seemed to help, I could never get rid of the rattling noise on the right front side when I go over small sharp bumps in the road. It even does it when going over tar used to seal cracks on the road. If I go over a severe bump or moderate bump, no rattle. I am going to check the springs and hope that is the problem. If not, the car is getting traded in.

 

I put on a new set of pads and new antirattle clips today and the ratteling is gone. Before you trade it in do this test to see if its the front brake pads. Find a road that has alot of bumps that will cause the ratteling. With your left foot lightly apply the brakes while pushing on the gas pedal with your right foot to keep the car from coming to a stop. If the ratteling stops while the brakes are applied its the brake pads. The antirattel clips get worn out from the heat and dont hold the pads in place. The second problem that leads to the ratteling is that the pads have a robber coating on the back. After I dont know how many miles this padding rubs off. You now have a weak antirattel clip that cant hold the pad and the metal on the back of the pad comes in contact with the caliper causeing a ratteling sound

 

Just as an FYI - I have had two instances like this with both a rattle and a light clunk/knock. The rattle was the brake pads and the knock was worn tie rod ends - so both issues covered in this thread are valid.

 

Your wright and that is what I said some one said it was balljoints change them and the rattel will be gone. I have had bad tierod ends and they dont rattle. I have now had bad brake pads and antirattel clips and they do cause a rattle. I know because I just changed both and the rattle is gone. Ball joints dont rattle

 

I had the same issue.. 37k (of course right when the warranty is up) sounds like the wheel is going to fall off, especially when going down a cobble stone road. I had my rotors and pads replaced with after market about 4 months ago... just now noticing. I guess Im going to the dealer tomorrow. I wonder if they'll honor my warranty? Sigh...

 

Hi,
i have the same problem and i thing is the caliper bracket. If you want to be sure take off the wheel from the noisy side and try to move the caliper up and down 99% sure you'll hear it.Sorry for my english cause i'm french

 

ratteling sound from front end

:driving:I have already solved the rattle problem. I replaced the anti rattle clips and the rattle is gone. It was caused by the brake pads ratteling. You can not buy the clips from chrysler you have to get them from an au:driving:to parts store. I bought mine from shucks auto parts. You can get on line and order them. If you need the part number let me know

 

:driving:I have already solved the rattle problem. I replaced the anti rattle clips and the rattle is gone. It was caused by the brake pads ratteling. You can not buy the clips from chrysler you have to get them from an au:driving:to parts store. I bought mine from shucks auto parts. You can get on line and order them. If you need the part number let me know

:soapbox:

That's just incredible. In my case (and I'm sure many others on here), the pads are always so tight they hardly move... to the point where I had to dremel the ears/tabs down so much just to get the pads to slide at all. I went through the original pads in stupid time, the second set wouldn't have lasted much longer if I hadn't worked on them the way I did.

And we also have people with pads so loose they RATTLE?????

I thought Bosch was supposed to be a reputable company? German precision my a$$.

 

When i had the car on a lift for the SLP install, I checked the passenger side front wheel out. Holding it from top to bottom there was no play, but side to side produced some wiggle. The ball joint is the culprit. I'll be ordering a new one shortly.

 

You check the ball joints by holding top and bottom not side to side you are wasting your money on the ball joints if they did not show wear when you grabed top and bottom. There is going to be some movement left to right. Ball joins will not rattle going over bumps.:driving:

 

I realize that the front suspensions in these cars are not as strong as the aftermarket items to replace them. My problem was the ball joints and tie rods. I replace one at a time and the culprit was the ball joints. 200 a side and 150 to replace at . mienekie mufflers.

 

Stop throwing money at this. I have the same issue. I've also had to replace my outer tie rod end to pass inspection and it is still there. I noticed 1 plastic rivet in the front wheel well was missing. The other side was missing the exact same one out of the 5 or 6 in there. Bought some replacements at AutoZone for like 3 bucks and it helped alot. If they are missing the plastic inside the wheel well rattles slightly. Check it out.

 

Well, seeing as no one replied, I figured i would send an update to see if anyone has any other ideas. The dealer has changed the above part numbers and the rattle is still there. And it only happens at low speeds over the smaller bumps in the road. If its a big bump, the rattle/clunk is not there. Also, it is only noticeable with the window open. Thanks Xian

OMG! IM HAVING SAME ISSUE N I GOT A QUOTE WITH FRONT N LOWER CONTROL ARMS TENSION STRUTS N SWAY BAR LINKS. SO IF WE HEAR THIS NOISE TO THE BACK WITH WINDOW DOWN .. SO WHY DO THEY SAY ITS THE FRONT?? IM SUPPOSE TO TAKE CAR IN WHEN THEY ORDER THE PARTS.