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I have a 2016 Dodge Charger. The lights on the gear are flashing red and the car will not start. The battery has since died. Anyone have any suggestions how to get this issue resolved?
 

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A weak or dead battery will cause all sorts of issues on these cars, I would disconnect the battery and charge it overnight then see what happens.


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I have a 2016 Dodge Charger. The lights on the gear are flashing red and the car will not start. The battery has since died. Anyone have any suggestions how to get this issue resolved?
Did you ever get this fixed? Mine is doing this currently. Ive got a brand new battery in the car, so i know its not that.
 

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Ladyv38 only posted once, doubt she'll see your post.

I'm don't know what's going on, but make sure doors are closed, shifter is in park and stuff like that while trying to start the car.
Also, maybe a new battery in the key fob?
Might try to start the car in neutral and see if that works, it's ok to start in neutral. Would eliminate the neutral start switch.
Short of the car throwing a code to give a clue, not sure what it might be.
 

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MINE IS DOING THE SAME THING IT STARTED WITH A CLICKING SOUND UNDER THE CENTER CONSOLE , THEN BATTERY ISSUES . NOW WHEN I ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR WITH PUSH BUTTON IGNITION IT WILL NOT EVEN CYCLE THROUGH ACCESSORY / RUN SEQUENCE . Sorry for the caps lock. I am leaning toward weak battery but idk I will let you know if or when I get it figured out.
 

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MINE IS DOING THE SAME THING IT STARTED WITH A CLICKING SOUND UNDER THE CENTER CONSOLE , THEN BATTERY ISSUES . NOW WHEN I ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR WITH PUSH BUTTON IGNITION IT WILL NOT EVEN CYCLE THROUGH ACCESSORY / RUN SEQUENCE . Sorry for the caps lock. I am leaning toward weak battery but idk I will let you know if or when I get it figured out.
no it will not start using fob either
 

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That is correct it will not start using the fob . When i push the start button in the car it will not cycle through the assy/run /start cycle. It doesn't do anything. I just had the battery charged and tested it was dead but charged and tested ok.
 

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Im not sure where to go with it from this point. I have checked all the fuses I can thinkl might apply. I am not real sure how to test the relay for the ign run/start. However I did switch it with another relay and it didnt make a difference
 

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Why was the battery dead originally...? Are you sure it's holding the charge? Put a voltmeter on it while someone is trying to start the car..
 

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What was the result jumping the car, if you tried jump starting it.

Charging a dead battery does not indicate the battery is good. Try jumping it.
 

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I had it load tested at AutoZone, as well as the alternator and I can't test while trying to start it because the push button start will not cycle out of the off position. It doesn't respond at all to the push button start. I have power from the battery to the front fuse block under the hood. Yes I tried jumping it with no change. Wondering if the push button is bad but it will not start with remote either so....? I believe someone was in my car and left passenger door open that's why it went dead but idk really. I know that the passenger door was noticed open and the battery was dead. Before I parked it there was a new strange clicking noise under the gear shifter. Now the lights appear to be flashing a code but I can't find anything that indicates it doing so or a legend to decipher the code (flash sequence)
 

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I had it load tested at AutoZone, as well as the alternator and I can't test while trying to start it because the push button start will not cycle out of the off position. It doesn't respond at all to the push button start. I have power from the battery to the front fuse block under the hood. Yes I tried jumping it with no change. Wondering if the push button is bad but it will not start with remote either so....? I believe someone was in my car and left passenger door open that's why it went dead but idk really. I know that the passenger door was noticed open and the battery was dead. Before I parked it there was a new strange clicking noise under the gear shifter. Now the lights appear to be flashing a code but I can't find anything that indicates it doing so or a legend to decipher the code (flash sequence)
Any luck mines doing the same
 

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No i am leaning toward the SKREEM (Sentry Key Remote entry module) or wireless control module
, or the or integrated power module but it could be the pcm, park / nuetral switch, brake switch, who knows? I wish I did but I cant afford to send it to the dealer right now my pockets are hurting and I know it will not be cheap. I have a recall that needs to be handled im going to speak with them about doing them at same time and see what happens I feel like its going to be painful but at the same time I want / need my car fixed. Idea : How about? You could take yours in then let me know what they say !!:cool:
 

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Took mine in it’s at the dealer now they are saying it needs a new battery before they can diagnose anything further I went to autozone a day before and they checked the battery and said was fine so let’s see what’s next so far I’m in it for 550 roughly
 

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Took mine in it’s at the dealer now they are saying it needs a new battery before they can diagnose anything further I went to autozone a day before and they checked the battery and said was fine so let’s see what’s next so far I’m in it for 550 roughly
So, what fixed it?
 

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I'm having a similar problem. Code P0850. From what I've read, it's pointing to the Internal Mode Switch. It's located inside the transmission and is part of the Valve Body. I called my dealer asking how much the switch was and they said that it's part of the Valve Body which was around $2500.
Crazy thing is the car isn't going into park. So, cannot shut off the ignition. And, cannot open the trunk in gear! LOL. If left, battery runs dead. I got into the trunk and just to rule out a declining battery issue, I put a new one in ($$). No help with the issue. So, now I have a string tied to the manual trunk release so I can close the trunk after disconnecting th battery (brain surgeons decided we don't need a key). Cannot lock the car. I guess I will take it somewhere unless I find more info on a switch. I think I will go for a junkyard transmission before I go with the cost of a new Valve Body.
Sure would appreciate any info you guys might have on an alternative route.
 

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It look like the shifter module under the center console got liquid in it and shorted so If you spilled something near that console it might be the culprit
 

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Boy was I wrong / right all at the same time. ot it back from dealership yesterday The park / nuetral module got corroded and failed and in turn was shorting out other modules down the line. Cost me $700.00 and I prob could have done it myself in an hour but im happy to have it running good again! TY everyone that took time to add input , hopefully the next guy has the info he needs
 

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So, are you saying that you spilled "something" on your center console and that cost you seven hundred bucks?

Guess I won't be drinking any more coffee while driving this thing....
 
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