the only harness u needed was the engine harness ? and what about the dash harness and etc ?
and whats is the Engine wiring diagnosis fee for/do??

 

peezy202

The diagnosis was in conjunction with engine installation that is basically labor work. Your parts list will be the same.. yes you only need the engine wiring harness.. the 2.7l and 3.5 models are so similar its mostly direct plug in.. have a good one good luck with your build

 

hello fellow lx body enthusiasts..
I have swapped my 2.7l from my 2005 dodge magnum with a 2010 3.5l
this has been a very tough challenge, and i am eager to complete it. It is 95% done.. Here is a list of everything purchased and paid for up to date. I of course will update when complete and running.. If anybody has helpful hints.. Let me know! Thank you all

engine bracket –dodge dealership– $116.00
engine harness & computer –$246.27-
alternator harness – dodge dealership – 13.35
harmonic balancer -$50
timing chain cover - $25
ac compressor – 86.15
6 coil pack pigtails - dodge dealership - $120
thermostat housing – dodge dealership - $35
serpentine belt - $10
cam position sensor pigtail – dodge dealership - $28
engine (2010 3.5l 40k miles w/just upper intake no bolt ons) - craigslist- $400
engine wiring diagnosis fee – guy on craigslist - $75
engine installation – drunk guy on craigslist (big mistake)- $800
ac compressor hose - $??
Thermostat housing hose - $??
Oil (mobile 1 full synthetic) + filter - $32.00
trans fluid - $??
Coolant - $??
Pcm flash - $??
Upper intake - $??
So far $1356.77 spent
upper and lower radiator hose - $40
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
05 2.7l magnum w/ blown engine - $1400
complete total so far - $2756



if you have any questions or need guidence, please let me know..

attention !!
Im having a lil trouble with my build

i really wanted to know did u ever finish ya build and got in up and running ?? Also can u plzzz direct email me plz!!

 

If I have a 2005 magnum and I want to change from a 2.7 to a 3.5 but everything comes out of another 2005 magnum, would I have to do the same thing?

 

The PCM flash was done at a dealer I am guessing? Do I just tell the dealer what I am doing and have them reflash it? I am in Wisconsin, and nobody will custom tune it here. It runs, I just have no throttle response. He never says if he ever finished in this post HemiLonestar.

Hey 2.7 to 3.5 swap enthusiasts. I have it all complete and ready to go thanks to Syked ECU Tuning out of Washington state. I actually missed a connection from the harness to the starter, but I got that fixed. The throttle was still sluggish and throwing codes P0171 and P0174. I sent the tune out to Syked and they enhanced the 2.7L ECU tune and got rid of the lean codes. The car runs like a champ now, like the engine came in the car. I know that this was a long process, but I wanted to make sure that everything went right. I have $1,300 into my car, which includes the car itself, the 3.5L engine with harness from Craigslist, and a tune. I lucked out on this one. Hopefully I will be able to do a HEMI swap in this same vehicle in a couple of years. Stay "tuned".

 

I have finished swapping the engine and wiring harness on my 2010 chrysler 300 touring, I got all parts from a wrecked 2009 chysler 300 touring. I got the car to start, have no codes but have very slow if any throttle response. was this your case?

 

Hello fellow LX body enthusiasts..
I have swapped my 2.7l from my 2005 dodge magnum with a 2010 3.5l
This has been a very tough challenge, and I am eager to complete it. It is 95% done.. here is a list of everything purchased and paid for up to date. I of course will update when complete and running.. If anybody has helpful hints.. let me know! thank you all

Engine bracket –Dodge Dealership– $116.00
Engine Harness & computer –$246.27-
Alternator Harness – Dodge Dealership – 13.35
HARMONIC BALANCER -$50
TIMING CHAIN COVER - $25
AC COMPRESSOR – 86.15
6 coil pack pigtails - Dodge Dealership - $120
Thermostat housing – Dodge Dealership - $35
Serpentine belt - $10
Cam Position Sensor pigtail – Dodge Dealership - $28
Engine (2010 3.5l 40k miles w/just upper intake no bolt ons) - Craigslist- $400
Engine wiring diagnosis fee – Guy on craigslist - $75
Engine installation – Drunk guy on craigslist (BIG MISTAKE)- $800
AC Compressor hose - $??
Thermostat housing hose - $??
Oil (MOBILE 1 FULL SYNTHETIC) + Filter - $32.00
Trans fluid - $??
Coolant - $??
PCM Flash - $??
Upper intake - $??
So far $1356.77 spent
Upper and lower radiator hose - $40
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
05 2.7l Magnum w/ blown engine - $1400
Complete total so far - $2756



I have a Chrysler 300 2005 with a 2.7 in it what do I need to do to put a 3.5 L out of a 2007 Chrysler 300 in it can it be done?

 

Can I put a 3.5 out of a Chrysler 300 2007 in a 2005 with a 2.7

 

Not sure if I am just the unluckiest guy or what but my swap is not going well. I bought a 07 Dodge Chrarger with the 2.7L engine locked for $700. I thought the swap would be smooth but didnt do enough research. I bought a 07 3.5L engine off of Ebay for $1450 with 84k miles. This came out of a 5 speed car RWD. The engine bolted to my 4 speed with no problems. However the wiring harness did not match. I found a wiring harness out of LQK U pull for 20 bucks. The problem is the alternator connector wasnt the same configuration. So I soldered on the original connector instead of swapping the alternator. I changed out all of the aforementioned items like ac compressor etc. I was able to get the car started but the car is revving up on it's own and the speedometer shows that it it is running 60 mph while the car is in park. So far the car is throwing two codes P0660 and I cant remember the other but it has something to do with low voltage. I'm thinking my issue is the alternator. The P0660 code is because the new wiring harness only had one connection for the the intake motor connectors that sit one the front and my intake has two. So I found an intake at LKQ for $30 bucks that had only one. The code is still there. Not sure if I need a PCM flash or what. Basically this is proving to be a tougher and costly exercise than I anticipated.

 

I ran into the issue with 2.7 to 3.5. we haven't installed the 3.5 yet since we just found out this issue. What was your out come or what did you end up doing?

 

I swaped out motor. Tyranny alternator a bunch of parts . Ok so it was driving good like it should for like a week then now it's like it in limp mode.! Won't shift pass 2nd or over 40 mph. Could this be the shift solenoid control valve?

 

First I'd get it scanned with a good quality scanner. Most likely a shop. You can do the key dance to get the codes but it doesn't always show them all. A shop with a good scanner can see real time data.
You could check the codes with the key then go from there. Most likely it's a speed sensor or solenoid in the trans. It could also be in the throttle pedal since they are drive by wire now. If the traction control lights are on and ABS, it could be the pedal or the throttle body.
Check all your connections. Make sure none came loose. The connector lock may not have latched all the way. Anything can happen and with todays cars, everything is critical.

 

Hello fellow LX body enthusiasts..
I have swapped my 2.7l from my 2005 dodge magnum with a 2010 3.5l
This has been a very tough challenge, and I am eager to complete it. It is 95% done.. here is a list of everything purchased and paid for up to date. I of course will update when complete and running.. If anybody has helpful hints.. let me know! thank you all

Engine bracket –Dodge Dealership– $116.00
Engine Harness & computer –$246.27-
Alternator Harness – Dodge Dealership – 13.35
HARMONIC BALANCER -$50
TIMING CHAIN COVER - $25
AC COMPRESSOR – 86.15
6 coil pack pigtails - Dodge Dealership - $120
Thermostat housing – Dodge Dealership - $35
Serpentine belt - $10
Cam Position Sensor pigtail – Dodge Dealership - $28
Engine (2010 3.5l 40k miles w/just upper intake no bolt ons) - Craigslist- $400
Engine wiring diagnosis fee – Guy on craigslist - $75
Engine installation – Drunk guy on craigslist (BIG MISTAKE)- $800
AC Compressor hose - $??
Thermostat housing hose - $??
Oil (MOBILE 1 FULL SYNTHETIC) + Filter - $32.00
Trans fluid - $??
Coolant - $??
PCM Flash - $??
Upper intake - $??
So far $1356.77 spent
Upper and lower radiator hose - $40
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
05 2.7l Magnum w/ blown engine - $1400
Complete total so far - $2756



If you have any questions or need guidence, please let me know..

hey so I’m trying to do a 2.7 to 3.5 swap to a 2008 Chrysler 300 I’m having trouble getting a engine wiring harness that can plug in. if anyone can help I would appreciate it a lot

 

I've done this 6 months ago, what's the problem? Here's the key issues you have to watch for. 2005 & 2006 & 2007 are all different harnesses and won't work on the 2008-2010's. 2005 has it's own coil pack connector and the harness lays in a track in the aluminum valve cover. The camshaft sensor is also unique to this year and early 2006's. 2006 coil pack plugs are different from 2005 plugs. The coil packs mount differently too along with specific 2005-2006 cam sensor. Takes larger connector like the 2.7l's. These are the two main areas to check when verifying a harness will work.
Also, 2005, 2006, and 2007 run dual runner valves in the intake where 2008-2010 only runs one. 2007 is a crossover year. 2005-2006 use the same dual runner valves with 2 small 2 wire plugs. 2007 uses two valves with 2 larger 6 wire plugs. It changed to the 2008-2010 coil packs and camshaft sensor and I think the wiring harness attached to the valve cover bolts like the 2008. 2005-2006 engine harness is the same and use the same alternator. 2007 harness is unique because of the dual runner valves and unique alternator plug. .
2008-2010 uses a single runner valve and different cam sensor, 2007-2010. The cam sensors are not swappable. The mounting hole is different and the plug is different. The harness attaches to the valve cover mounting bolts as the valve covers are plastic after 2006.
Next issue: runner valve function. The 2008-2010 2.7 does not use a runner valve. Therefore, the body side of the harness doesnt have the wires for it nor does the computer connector, black connector pins 16 & 21. C100 plug on the strut brace is where you need to add 2 wires in the center of the connector. You'll get P2107 & P1004 codes I think it is. Don't buy a new ruuner valve, it's not the problem. The 3.5 engine harness has the wires so your okay there. You just need to add the wires to the body harness at connector C100 and in the black plug on the computer. I went to the salvage yard and got pigtails for both. Then I removed the two wires I needed and added them to my connectors and soldered them together.
If you have anything other than the base model, LX(300) or SE(Charger), you may not need to do this. The LX 300 came with optional ABS. If you don't have ABS and use a 3.5 computer you'll lose speedometer and cruise control. If you run the 2.7 computer, which you can do, it will run lean and rough at idle. It will also stall at stop lights randomly. This is only a temporary option until getting a 3.5 computer. I had to use a 3.5 computer and program it for a 2009 Challenger because it was the only one without ABS. Ran and drove just like factory install. Gas mileage is down a little bit because of low gears and bigger motor. I get 23-24mpg and cruise 80mph at 2500/2600 rpm. My 2007 factory 3.5 Charger cruises 80mph at 2000/2100rpm and gets 27-28mpg because it has higher gears. Putting larger 20" tires on the 300 would pick gas mileage up.
The front timing cover has to be 2007-2010 also. It effects the camshaft sensor and AC mounting bosses. Make sure and install a new belt and tensioner pulley at the very least. The pulley will lock up and cause it to jump time and bend valves. Bought one like this.
On the alternator, there are 3 different alternators used and they have different plugs. 2005-2006ish use a side by side terminal fat plug. 2007ish used it's own odd shaped plug and is wired different. It grounds the field wire instead of controlling it by the computer like the other years. 2008-2010 use a skinny top/bottom terminal orientation. I can't tell you the differences between the charging/voltage sensing rates but they don't change plugs just for fun. It usually means theres a difference between systems and it's to guarantee that you can't use the wrong item in the wrong application. Splicing in plugs is a hack job usually guaranteed to cause problems. This isnt 1974 guys. Computers are very sensitive to input and output. We're talking Millivolts not Volts which can easily fry a lot of different things. Unless you can verify comparable/exact operating parameters, it's best to do it right the first time.

 

1st, what's the code? That makes a huge difference. It's not "limo mode" its "limp mode". Limp mode is usually only activated when theres transmission issues.
I'd guess something is up with the timing belt. Jumped time, missing teeth, cam out of sync. 12v is supplied to all coils all the time. The PCM grounds each one to fire it.
If you "rewired it" that may be an issue also. 1) you can't just twist wires together. They have to be soldered correctly and shrink wrapped. 2) if your using a different sensor than what is original to the PCM, that could be another issue.
I am in the process of doing this right now. The 2005-2006 3.5's and the 2.7's use a big fat plug. Looking at the end of the plug, wire numbers go 3-2-1.
1=yl/pk 5v supply,
2=db/dg sensor ground, K900
3=db/by sensor signals K44
On the smaller connector, 2007-2010's with the 3.5l, the connector is the same as the crank sensor plug. The coil pack plugs look almost identical but a groove in the plug is in a different location. The wire numbering is the same, 3-2-1, but wire usage can be reversed.
1=yl/ok 5v supply (same as above)
2=db/dg sensor ground (circuit K900)
2=db/gy sensor signal (circuit K44)
3=db/dg sensor ground (K900)
3=db/gy sensor signal (K44)
Position 2 & 3 can be reversed apparently. Not sure what the protocol was. You would need to match this up with what the PCM was originally looking for versus the sensor you have. You might try switching the two wires and see what happens. Hopefully the PCM isnt jacked.
The best method would be to use a volt meter on the plug to verify the ground and 5v supply. The sensor wire can be tested by holding the ground lead on the ground terminal, put the positive lead on the sensor terminal. Plug must be connected to the sensor. You can test at your wiring joints or back probe the connector. You meter should go from 0v to like 3v as you crank or turn the engine over with a breaker bar. Everytime it sees a window in the tone ring it should change reading.

 

It's not "limo mode" its "limp mode".

Dammit! I was really hoping to activate limo mode on my Charger.

 

Sorry for the typo lol so I have a 2009 charger 3.5 engine in a 2008 charger that had a 2.7 with a 4 speed trans. The harness came from a Chrysler 300 and has all the right connections now I have put the 3.5 pcm from an 09 charger in it and had it flashed I am still getting a camshaft sensor code, even though I have made sure it is working properly.
the other codes are :u1110, p0340, p2017,p0688, pp0685
I also had the speedometer working with the original pcm but now it does not

 

Sorry for the typo lol so I have a 2009 charger 3.5 engine in a 2008 charger that had a 2.7 with a 4 speed trans. The harness came from a Chrysler 300 and has all the right connections now I have put the 3.5 pcm from an 09 charger in it and had it flashed I am still getting a camshaft sensor code, even though I have made sure it is working properly.
the other codes are :u1110, p0340, p2017,p0688, pp0685
I also had the speedometer working with the original pcm but now it does not

Typical. Not sure why your getting camshaft error.
This is a good site to compare connectors:

Mopar Connection Repair Kit

connectors.dcctools.com

Put in the right year and body. When the list comes up, look for "modules-powertrain controls (C1)-black". Print it off then change years and print all 4 off for each year: C1, C2, C3, C4. Compare to verify wires are identical.
Check C100 too. I attached a picture. I circled pins 9 & 10. Looks to be your issue. Sometimes the same pin can be used for different functions on different configurations. 2.7l uses one layout, 3.5l uses another. Looks like pins #4 & #11 are the alternate pin locations. Match wire colors up to the body side/engine side. You'll have to pull the blue & red pin lock insert out first. I think the red insert has tabs you can grip with good needle nose and pull it out. The blue insert requires using a sharp knife tip or a wire probe to get it started. You then have to release the lock tab for each wire. The wire probe tip works good for this.
08-10 should be the same harness. I'll look at the wiring diagram. On all except the Uxxxx code, it's looking like some wires aren't matching up. P2017 is for the runner valve. You'll get P1004 also. This is because the 08-10 2.7l doesnt use a runner valve. Even though the 3.5l engine harness has the wires, the body harness for the 2.7l doesn't. There are two wires missing in the C100 connector. It's a rectangular black plug that presses into the strut brace right about the strut tower. The two wires are the two middle wires. One is SRV-Control & SRV-Signal. You're also missing the wires in the black connector on the PCM. Pins #16 & #21. You'll have to go to a salvage yard and get pigtails or buy a connector on Ebay. Since you need a computer anyways, look for one they cut the wires on and left the connectors. Kind of two birds with one stone deal. I have extra wires for both I could send you. I bought both connectors and use them for swaps.
Now, speedometer issue. 90% of most 2.7l cars don't have ABS. So, they look for the speed sensor on the wheels or somewhere. 90% of 3.5l cars had ABS because they were upper level cars. The PCM is looking for the speed sensor in the ABS unit which it doesnt have. So, no speedo or cruise.
The fix, have someone "tune" the speed sensor where it needs to be. Or, buy a 2009 Challenger PCM for a 3.5l, 4 speed trans and no ABS. Part number 68026433AK. Then have your VIN programmed into it. You can have your 3.5l or 2.7l PCM programmed to the Challenger part number if you have a source. Exact same computers, just programmed differently. I have a guy do mine. Just sent one off. Don't expect the dealer to be thrilled to do this. They will flat out refuse to program a computer to your car that is not the right part # per the VIN. Most other computer suppliers won't do it either. Some programmers will do it for $100 plus shipping and your computer. Some shops with a good scanner can do it if persuaded correctly or if you know a guy that knows a guy.

 

Hello fellow LX body enthusiasts.. I have swapped my 2.7l from my 2005 dodge magnum with a 2010 3.5l This has been a very tough challenge, and I am eager to complete it. It is 95% done.. here is a list of everything purchased and paid for up to date. I of course will update when complete and running.. If anybody has helpful hints.. let me know! thank you all Engine bracket –Dodge Dealership– $116.00 Engine Harness & computer –$246.27- Alternator Harness – Dodge Dealership – 13.35 HARMONIC BALANCER -$50 TIMING CHAIN COVER - $25 AC COMPRESSOR – 86.15 6 coil pack pigtails - Dodge Dealership - $120 Thermostat housing – Dodge Dealership - $35 Serpentine belt - $10 Cam Position Sensor pigtail – Dodge Dealership - $28 Engine (2010 3.5l 40k miles w/just upper intake no bolt ons) - Craigslist- $400 Engine wiring diagnosis fee – Guy on craigslist - $75 Engine installation – Drunk guy on craigslist (BIG MISTAKE)- $800 AC Compressor hose - $?? Thermostat housing hose - $?? Oil (MOBILE 1 FULL SYNTHETIC) + Filter - $32.00 Trans fluid - $?? Coolant - $?? PCM Flash - $?? Upper intake - $?? So far $1356.77 spent Upper and lower radiator hose - $40 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 05 2.7l Magnum w/ blown engine - $1400 Complete total so far - $2756 If you have any questions or need guidence, please let me know..

Do you have to have the pcm flashed? Bc I just did the swap and I have no cranking of the motor

 

No, as long as the PCM is for your car. VIN # has to match. If you swapped the computer it wont work without having the VIN# programmed into it. The original 2.7 computer will work temporarily but will run lean and throw codes. You really need to use the correct 3.5l wiring harness for your year of car.
Mixing years will definitely cause problems. 2007 was it's own year and the starter was wired differently. It a 2007 only wiring harness and alternator. Intake is also specific. This is usually the issue with no crank.
The other issue is the ground wire from the passenger rear strut tower down to the transmission bolt/stud. It's easy to forget to hook that back up since its hidden. There are several small wires that ground to both strut tower studs. Make sure they are all connected. The main ground wire is a big heavy black battery cable. It's the main ground for the engine. If you swapped harnesses, make sure the battery cable is connected and tight in the passenger fender well. Some models have different starter/alternator wiring. Some have just one cable that runs to the starter and then the alternator cable is welded to it inside the harness in the middle of the engine harness above the trans. Others have two separate cables that slip together at the starter and bolt up there. Verify which one you have. Look at your old harness. You may have to move the battery cable from the 0ld harness to the new one if it is the independent type.
May sure the starter relay wire is plugged into the starter. It's easy to miss because it's a bear to see and get to. Sometimes they get damaged or broken because of the heat. I've had to repair several. You can try jumping the starter relay to see if it'll crank that way. This test fir the relay wire connection and if you have a good battery + and battery - connection.
Using a 2.7l harness is a cluster most of the time even though they are close, getting things rerouted properly and grounds and capacitors connected properly can be a nightmare if you dont know what your doing. Even then, its questionable.
You're pretty much stick with the 2.7l computer unless you know a good programmer because a 3.5l computer is setup for ABS. 2.7l cars rarely had ABS. So a 3.5l computer will run the car but you'll lose speedometer and cruise because the computers look for the speed sensor in different locations.
Theres only one factory setup that allows this to work properly and only on certain years. Or, you have to custom tune the 2.7l computer for the 3.5l fuel trims.
I've done 2 4.0l swaps and 1 3.5l swap all on different years. I've been through almost every scenario you can imagine to make this work. The best running setup was a 4.0l in a 2008 300. It would give RT's a run for their money.

 

2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 engine to put in 2008 dodge charger w 2.7 engine .. will i have a lot of issues?

 

Yes, you will have a ton of issues. 05-06 3.5l's use a different block than 08-10's. The AC mounting hole is different. The computers are different generations as well as the wiring harness. The cam sensor is totally different also.
You can make it work but you'll need the 06 Ac compressor and lines, then you'll have to find 07-10 valve covers. Then an 08-10 intake, wiring harness and PCM. Wiring harness has to have the VLP plug on the trans. Most don't for a 3.5l. You can add it if you are good with wiring. It will bolt up to the trans fine and to the exhaust. And, that's where the easy ends. Everything else has to be 3.5l stuff. Heater hoses air intake ect. Hopefully you have ABS or that will be another issue. You'll need a 3.5l PCM too for a 08'10 so that it matches the computer.
It's not a plug and play situation.

 

some 2006 charger 2.7 year had 4 speed tyrannies with 1 more plug(4 instead of 3) we wired the additional circuit using the wires from the original 2.7 harness into the replacement harness(obtained from a salvage yard) into the appropriate spots on the pcm harness,, seems to work except for the fuel trim problem

 

Same here!

 

Yeah I'm trying to figure out how to swap motors out myself. I'm not a mechanic I'm a backyard mechanic in the beginning stages. Well I'm tryi ng to take the motor from a 2006 Dodge Charger 3.5L and put it in my 2007 Dodge Charger 2.7L. What I'm trying to figure out is what parts do I need off of 2006 Charger and will it be compatible because when I was given the 2006 charger it wouldn't start or crank over for nothing I was figuring I could just use my ignition from my 2007 charger and everything will be perfectly fine. Can you please help me out with the next step into getting this car finished

 

You've got a Mellava Hess going on here. You're mixing generations of computers, engine sizes, AC compressors, engine wiring, ect.
05-06's are oddball engines and wiring unto themselves. 07 is special to itself with PCM, TIPM & wiring harness. Intakes are different as well as coil packs. If you are experienced, have tons of time and some money, its doable. But for a first timer, you're in way too deep. Even with what you have, you'll need the correct 07 wiring harness, 07 only and matching PCM. Then, it has to be from a 4 speed trans car with or without VLP option, depending on what the 07 car has. Oil pan needs to be for a 4 speed car on the 3.5l too.
Your looking at probably minimum $200 in parts if you can find them and pull them yourself. Which, is really the only option for the wiring harness at least. Otherwise, you'll be in the $500-1000 department range. It isnt a straight bolt in and go situation. It will bolt in, but that's where easy ends.

 

Well the 2007 is the one that I'm taking the 2.7L V6 out of and putting a 2006 3.5L V6 into the 2007 now I have all the wiring from both cars how to I get it to run

 

Well I have the 06 charger complete car with motor and transmission including every single wire harness. My 07 charger is gone to crap why couldn't I just swap everything over to the 07 charger from the 06 charger

 

The engine and trans will bolt in but that's where it ends. 07 is it's own year for wiring for the starter and for the alternator. The body wiring for the 06 computer is different the the 07 wiring. Theres a system called CANBUS that ties several computers together. 06 is gen3, 07 is gen 4. You cant mix generations. You'll have to get 07 wiring harness and computer from a 3.5l car. Valve covers are different and coil packs and they have to match to the 07 setup. Its doable, but it's not a direct swap. Its another $200-1000 worth of parts at least.

 

hello sir my chrysler 300c 2.7 4 gear broke engine its posibile swap for 3.5l chrysler pacifica 05 06 ?

 

Okay I'm new to this I have a 2007 Dodge Charger 2.7L V6 that I swapped motors with even transmissions with a 2006 Dodge Charger 3.5L V6. It doesn't crank I've switched up some of the wiring already but should I just change out all the wiring harnesses to the car because I saved the wiring harnesses from the 06 charger? I'm not a mechanic by trade but I'm trying to get this car rolling again what do I have to do to get it back on the road please help me.

 

2007 has it's own special wiring that doesnt match any other year. You can only use a 2007 harness on a 2007 model car. 2005-6 are totally different as well as 2008-2010.
You need a 2007 3.5l with a 4 speed trans harness. Starter & alternator wiring are s po specific to 2007's. Alternator is 2007 specific also to match wiring harness. You CANNOT splice wires in on these. It will not work. Computers are different as well as TIPM.

 

Do what you told me to get 2007 wires for the Dodge Charger but for the 3.5L V6

 

So i have successfully completed this swap. Car runs and drives great and shift good all 4 gears. Im using original 2007 ecm on my charger. Had a 2.7 in it. I took a 3.5 motor and harness offa 2005 4speed magnum. With slight modification with one of the transmission wires. All is good except i can pass inspection due to lean codes in both banks. Anyone resolve this issue. I have no vacuum leaks and replaced all seals and gaskets. Any input?

 

You will run lean with the 2.7l computer. You have to run a 3.5l computer. They are the same part #, just programmed different. You can reprogram yours or just go but one that is a for sure known 3.5l computer. Verify VIN before buying. If seller cant supply VIN to verify, leave it or get a warranty on it. You will have to program VIN to match your car to before it will work.

 

But I have the transmission for the 3.5L from the 06 I even have the rear end like I said I have everything that was on the 06 3.5L I'm just trying to throw it on the 07 because I pulled the 2.7L off of the 07 because it was shot and I had the 06 Charger all beat up so I switched everything to 07 Charger because the body is still right I even have the computer from the 06 Charger that went to the 3.5L. I've changed the wires on the motor and now I'm about to change all the wiring under the dash tell this will work because I'm at a lost here.

 

Like I said in the beginning this is not an easy swap.
Theres two ways to do this. '06 & '07 cars are totally different builds electrically. Sheet metal wise they are the same.
So, option #1, the hardest way, is to totally strip both cars down to the body. You have to do this as almost every electrical connector is different between the two years. The doors and switches may or may not match up. The main body harness runs from the tail lights to the dash and across the interior. You have to change out the complete dash, body harness, dash to headlights harness, seats and steering column. You'll have to use the '06 key also so that means you'll have to change the locks too.
Option #2: Just change the engine harness to an '07 3.5l, 4 speed harness with or without VLP. ABS setup has to match up also. Either both cant have it or both need to have it.
You will also have to change the valve covers to the '07 plastic style and the '07 coil packs to match the harness. The cam sensor is different also. You can't change that out because they are totally different sizes and the connectors are totally different. Crank sensor is the same setup I believe.
This is not an easy swap to do. Theres more to this story you will find out. It's not plug and play by any means. Theres going to be programming issues most likely and wire splicing required. Thats just all there is too it.
If you do the full swap method, there's going to be missed connections, grounds not hooked up, broken connectors and bad connections.

 

Making any progress?

 

No I changed engine harness and dash with ignition wires and computer wires plus the shifter I haven't attempted to start because I have to put the dash back together plus I'm already discouraged to finish it because now I feel like I really ****ed it up this sucks.