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So I decided to follow the "How Do I Do Everything" post on the DIY Intake.
I haven't gotten to run the intake since it is snowing again and I don't want a speck of salt on my brand new staggered Torq Thrust's I just mounted this week. So until I can actually try it out, I can only show you what I made..... I wanted to post my steps used to powder coat the intake. I haven't seen anyone post the steps to do it. I have been powder coating for a few years and wanted to do it to my intake for durability.
So to save the long explanation of what I used to make the intake, you can read the post "Homemade CAI". I didn't design this intake and credit should go to who deserves it for this design. I simply copied it. I went ahead and came up with my own measurements and cut pipe to length. I had a T-drill from work that I was able to borrow to cut the pipe. They do an awesome job cutting pipe evenly. I then filed the edges, sanded the tubes, and drilled my sensor hole. I did add a few inches of wire to my existing sensor so I could locate it a bit farther down the tube past the first elbow location. I wanted it hidden under the first tube before the bend down into the fender. Of course I test fitted everything to make sure it fit perfectly before painting. I washed all parts down with soap water and then Acetone to remove any additional dirt / oil before being powdered.
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I then rigged a simple wire to hang and ground my parts for powder coat.
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I then went ahead and sprayed my first part with powder. Notice the powder inside the intake tube. NOT OK WITH ME! I doubt it will ever flake, but I don't want any chances of flaking powder in the engine.
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So before I baked the powder, a simple fix is to use a long air hose nozzle on low pressure and blow off the powder from the inside of the tube. I was very CAREFUL not to disrupt the outer powder.
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In the oven they go. 400 degrees (F). I did only one part at a time to avoid bumping parts in the oven. I just take my time. No need to rush
Once it flows you need to use the specs called out on the powder. The matte black powder I was using required 20 minutes at 400 degrees (F). Set your timer after the flow begins. Don't set your timer right away or you shorten your cure time. All powders are a little different and have specific time needed to cure. Read those labels!
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I have a laser temp gun. I like to check a few minutes "After Flow" to guarantee that the part itself is 400 Degrees (F). Right on the button! I know I am getting a good bake cycle....
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Timer is done and the time to remove from the oven and cool. After a minute or two parts are cool enough to touch. After a little inspection they are approved to my standards and are ready for mounting....
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**Note - The little pinhole in the tube on the right is so I know that it is the end that is to go closest to the throttle. It is covered by the 90 degree elbow***
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If any of you want to do this, you can simply buy a cheap setup for under $60. Harbor Freight has a very basic gun "Link" that will at least let you do small parts like this. I have used much nicer guns but for this setup I tried this setup so I could let you all know if it works. It does but it's not top quality. It did the job. I had a gun that was about $300 and it did a better job. Guns go all they way up to several thousand bucks and are amazing to use. For this setup you just need a good ground on you part. For this job I imply used the little alligator clip. It didn't work well and I lost a lot of powder on the floor. To help with this I have a designated ground that I have just for powder coating in my garage. I have a grounding rod that goes 6ft in the ground that is just for my powder gun ground wire. It helps a ton. Another thing to keep in mind is have very dry clean air. I suggest using brand new new hose. You do not want to use a hose that has ever had any oil run through it. If you have an automatic oilier on your air lines or have a compressor that uses oil on the motor you will contaminate your lines. That oil can collect in the lines even after your air filter or dryer and you will still have dirty air. You will splatter oil or water and will get fish eyes if you don't have clean air. Have a final cheap disposable filter right at your gun for the last line of defense for moister and oil/dirt. Also a good regulator is nice to have to help control even air flow. I can tell you that a mod to the gun can be a simple help to. Adding a second 1/6 or 1/8" hole on harbor freight gun air tube that goes into the Powder holding cup will help flow the powder. Other than that, give it a try..... Pretty easy to do.
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Once I get this completely installed and the engine bay cleaned up after it stops snowing I will post pics.... I am guessing this weekend. More pics to come
I haven't gotten to run the intake since it is snowing again and I don't want a speck of salt on my brand new staggered Torq Thrust's I just mounted this week. So until I can actually try it out, I can only show you what I made..... I wanted to post my steps used to powder coat the intake. I haven't seen anyone post the steps to do it. I have been powder coating for a few years and wanted to do it to my intake for durability.
So to save the long explanation of what I used to make the intake, you can read the post "Homemade CAI". I didn't design this intake and credit should go to who deserves it for this design. I simply copied it. I went ahead and came up with my own measurements and cut pipe to length. I had a T-drill from work that I was able to borrow to cut the pipe. They do an awesome job cutting pipe evenly. I then filed the edges, sanded the tubes, and drilled my sensor hole. I did add a few inches of wire to my existing sensor so I could locate it a bit farther down the tube past the first elbow location. I wanted it hidden under the first tube before the bend down into the fender. Of course I test fitted everything to make sure it fit perfectly before painting. I washed all parts down with soap water and then Acetone to remove any additional dirt / oil before being powdered.
I then rigged a simple wire to hang and ground my parts for powder coat.
I then went ahead and sprayed my first part with powder. Notice the powder inside the intake tube. NOT OK WITH ME! I doubt it will ever flake, but I don't want any chances of flaking powder in the engine.
So before I baked the powder, a simple fix is to use a long air hose nozzle on low pressure and blow off the powder from the inside of the tube. I was very CAREFUL not to disrupt the outer powder.
In the oven they go. 400 degrees (F). I did only one part at a time to avoid bumping parts in the oven. I just take my time. No need to rush
Once it flows you need to use the specs called out on the powder. The matte black powder I was using required 20 minutes at 400 degrees (F). Set your timer after the flow begins. Don't set your timer right away or you shorten your cure time. All powders are a little different and have specific time needed to cure. Read those labels!
I have a laser temp gun. I like to check a few minutes "After Flow" to guarantee that the part itself is 400 Degrees (F). Right on the button! I know I am getting a good bake cycle....
Timer is done and the time to remove from the oven and cool. After a minute or two parts are cool enough to touch. After a little inspection they are approved to my standards and are ready for mounting....
**Note - The little pinhole in the tube on the right is so I know that it is the end that is to go closest to the throttle. It is covered by the 90 degree elbow***
If any of you want to do this, you can simply buy a cheap setup for under $60. Harbor Freight has a very basic gun "Link" that will at least let you do small parts like this. I have used much nicer guns but for this setup I tried this setup so I could let you all know if it works. It does but it's not top quality. It did the job. I had a gun that was about $300 and it did a better job. Guns go all they way up to several thousand bucks and are amazing to use. For this setup you just need a good ground on you part. For this job I imply used the little alligator clip. It didn't work well and I lost a lot of powder on the floor. To help with this I have a designated ground that I have just for powder coating in my garage. I have a grounding rod that goes 6ft in the ground that is just for my powder gun ground wire. It helps a ton. Another thing to keep in mind is have very dry clean air. I suggest using brand new new hose. You do not want to use a hose that has ever had any oil run through it. If you have an automatic oilier on your air lines or have a compressor that uses oil on the motor you will contaminate your lines. That oil can collect in the lines even after your air filter or dryer and you will still have dirty air. You will splatter oil or water and will get fish eyes if you don't have clean air. Have a final cheap disposable filter right at your gun for the last line of defense for moister and oil/dirt. Also a good regulator is nice to have to help control even air flow. I can tell you that a mod to the gun can be a simple help to. Adding a second 1/6 or 1/8" hole on harbor freight gun air tube that goes into the Powder holding cup will help flow the powder. Other than that, give it a try..... Pretty easy to do.
Once I get this completely installed and the engine bay cleaned up after it stops snowing I will post pics.... I am guessing this weekend. More pics to come
