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Discussion Starter #1
So as of today the engine temp in my R/T has begun fluctuating pretty badly. It goes from 188F driving to as high as 231F. Once it hits 220F the fans go onto high gear and it makes me a bit nervous. Not only because I fear the fans going BANG but because I know if the engine gets too hot I am susceptible to the valve issues many have had.

I'm not sure what's going on or what to look for but I use my car for Uber and I had to cut my day short because I didn't want to risk it.

All it takes is to stop at a light and it rises QUICK. It goes from 195 to 230 in 2 minutes or less. Once I move, even slightly, it goes down again. No idea where to start...

Any help is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Note: at 231F the engine needle is still dead center, doesn't move past the half way mark. But the temps do rise extremely quickly.
 

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I assume you are seeing the actual engine temp in the extended (hidden) EVIC and not in standard view mode?

What you are describing sounds like one of several possibilities. First is that you have air is the system that needs to be purged. Second is that you may have already lost one of the two cooling fans. Third is that you have a thermostat that is sticking and not allowing full coolant circulation. Last is a failing water pump.


I would start with the fans. Visually verify that both are operating at high speed when the engine is hot like you described while sitting at a light. If not, repair as necessary.

After that, I would replace the t-stat (cheap and easy to do) and make sure all of the air is out of the system.

If none of all of that works, it's time to consider a new water pump.
 
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Note: at 231F the engine needle is still dead center, doesn't move past the half way mark. But the temps do rise extremely quickly.
Are you sure you aren't looking at oil temp rather than coolant temp?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you sure you aren't looking at oil temp rather than coolant temp?
Definitely coolant temp. I am in the hidden EVIC menu and I am on the page that has speed, RPMs, engine temp, voltage. The temps coincide with when the fans come on at full blast. How do I go about testing the fans? They sound awfully loud when they ramp up, I wouldn't be surprised if one gave out. The car was fine earlier so I couldn't imagine there being air in the system, the car hasn't been touched.
 

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You can visually inspect the fans. When they are running at high speed, open the hood and visually verify that both are spinning at about the same speed (you will be easily able to tell if one isn't).

As far as air in the system, it would be as a result of a hidden leak that you aren't aware of that has sucked air into the system when the engine cooled down. Is your coolant level steady in the overflow bottle?

The stuck (or only partially opening) t-stat can happen at anytime especially with older vehicles. You'd be surprised how many folks here replace their t-stat and found that the old one was fubar when they looked at it. A partially opening t-stat will restrict coolant flow and give you all of the symptoms you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You can visually inspect the fans. When they are running at high speed, open the hood and visually verify that both are spinning at about the same speed (you will be easily able to tell if one isn't).

As far as air in the system, it would be as a result of a hidden leak that you aren't aware of that has sucked air into the system when the engine cooled down. Is your coolant level steady in the overflow bottle?

The stuck (or only partially opening) t-stat can happen at anytime especially with older vehicles. You'd be surprised how many folks here replace their t-stat and found that the old one was fubar when they looked at it. A partially opening t-stat will restrict coolant flow and give you all of the symptoms you describe.
I sure hope it's the T-Stat! It would give me an excuse to "upgrade" to the 180F T-Stat like the one I installed in the Daytona. Easy job, too!

The fans would be ironic considering my recent interest in the "customer notice" that came out about them.

I sure hope it's not a leak or the water pump. The coolant has remained the same level as far as I can tell. After the engine has been running, it is at right around the "LOW" mark. I can't say I've ever checked it when it's been cold, but could low coolant also be a culprit? I'm sure the car could use a coolant flush regardless, wouldn't be surprised if it's the original fluid from 2008. :frown2:

Note: I have never noted any fluid under the car after it's been sitting, nor have I seen any spilled anywhere in the engine bay. I don't have the belly pan, so I assume I would've noted it by now. That may be the least probable cause, but I could be wrong...
 

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I sure hope it's the T-Stat! It would give me an excuse to "upgrade" to the 180F T-Stat like the one I installed in the Daytona. Easy job, too!

The fans would be ironic considering my recent interest in the "customer notice" that came out about them.

I sure hope it's not a leak or the water pump. The coolant has remained the same level as far as I can tell. After the engine has been running, it is at right around the "LOW" mark. I can't say I've ever checked it when it's been cold, but could low coolant also be a culprit? I'm sure the car could use a coolant flush regardless, wouldn't be surprised if it's the original fluid from 2008. :frown2:

Note: I have never noted any fluid under the car after it's been sitting, nor have I seen any spilled anywhere in the engine bay. I don't have the belly pan, so I assume I would've noted it by now. That may be the least probable cause, but I could be wrong...
Well, a slow coolant leak could evaporate long before you ever see a stain on the ground. It's what happened on my SRT when I had a leaking water pump gasket. The hot engine would just burn off the fluid and I never saw it. I would slowly become low on fluid in the reservoir and suck air into the system giving an erratic cooling profile even though it always seemed to stay at the low "cold" level mark in the reservoir. I'd add fluid to the reservoir and the issue would go away.

If you are at the low "cold" level, fill it to the max "cold" level and see if it stays there or not.
 

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My 2006 had this issue. Shop said it was a failed water pump that had pushed out the seal. I know the thermostat is cheaper, but with everything you've said, it's mirrored my symptoms too much to not chime in and say go for the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update!

Thank you for the help gentlemen, it was much appreciated. I opened up the hood yesterday morning and noticed that after sitting all night, the coolant was right below the MIN cold line. This lead me to believe I had a leak somewhere, and when I went to check the hoses and T-Stat, I noticed a little wet spot on the passenger side of the fans. Needless to say while I wanted to believe it wasn't the radiator, I knew deep down inside it was.

Took it to the dealer (because local shops around here SUCK and are only used to Hondas) and I was right. Apparently when my brother hit that pothole in Maryland last month, he punctured the radiator. It has been slow leaking since. They are currently changing the radiator, T-Stat and flushing the coolant.

An expense I wasn't expecting and that has put me in a bad spot, but the warranty wouldn't cover it since it was physical damage and I need my car for work and didn't want to risk it overheating.

Oh well.....I'll choke my brother in his sleep every chance I get. :frown2:
 
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