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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2014 Charger RT Hemi and I was looking to upgrade my summer wheels to 2015 Scat Pack WRT wheels. I wanted to get 275 tires all around but I know I also want to lower my car a bit too. I did a little research with suspension kits and I'm liking the Eibach Pro System Plus kit that lowers the car 1.3 in the front and 1.5 in the rear. My question is will I still be able to put 275 tires all around and this suspension on safely with no rubbing? Thanks
 

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I have the older set that came with Bilstein shocks and it handles pretty nice. Not sure about the tire size question though.
You might want to bite the bullet and get the stage 1 coilovers if height is going to be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the response, I still have yet to purchase it. I dont really want to go the coilover route just because I heard the ride is super stiff no matter what brand you go with and I dont want a "track car" its my daily driver and it has to have a nice suspension.

I have the older set that came with Bilstein shocks and it handles pretty nice. Not sure about the tire size question though.
You might want to bite the bullet and get the stage 1 coilovers if height is going to be an issue.
 

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The Eibachs will lower the car 1.5" and you will be able to put on 275's on all four with no issues or rubbing. I have seen where going to a 295 or 305 could cause occasional rubbing in the rear going over bumps. Depends on the offset of your rear wheels. Something to consider would be the MOPAR stage 1 kit. It will lower the car but not as much, leaving the option to put larger tires on the rear in the future with no rubbing issues.
 

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Don't see what the fascination is with lowering cars. When you lower your car every speed bump and oddly angled driveway becomes an enemy. Plus, there's the comfort factor. When the suspension has about 4 inches to work with and you take an inch and a half of that away, that's a lot of ride quality going out the window. I'd suggest just adjusting tire size to fill the wheelwells better, then you won't notice how high the car is as much. On my pickup it looked way too high when stock, so I lowered it with a 2/4 drop then put on tires that filled the wheelwells. It's still about as high as it was stock, but it looks lowered. The only actual lowering on the truck was it's a Z71 and I pulled the iron lift blocks out, to put it to the stock 4x4 height.
 

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A friend of mine sold his 2016 SRT after less than a year because of damaging or ripping off the front air dam 4 times. He does live in the San Antonio area so perhaps that had something to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you! I have been waiting for someone to confirm it, cant believe it took this long to find out. Thought a lot of people had eibach suspensions.

The Eibachs will lower the car 1.5" and you will be able to put on 275's on all four with no issues or rubbing. I have seen where going to a 295 or 305 could cause occasional rubbing in the rear going over bumps. Depends on the offset of your rear wheels. Something to consider would be the MOPAR stage 1 kit. It will lower the car but not as much, leaving the option to put larger tires on the rear in the future with no rubbing issues.
 

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Lowering 1 1/2" is OK for the street. Tires will clear ok.
Go further low and you are in the car show class...then you have to go to the extra trouble.
 

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I have kw suspension lowered 1" on my 17 Daytona 5.7. I have more issues with my front splitter hitting the ground than issues with tire rub. Also running 275's. you'll be fine. there is plenty of room
 

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What coil springs, sway bars and lowering do to handling

Thanks for the response, I still have yet to purchase it. I dont really want to go the coilover route just because I heard the ride is super stiff no matter what brand you go with and I dont want a "track car" its my daily driver and it has to have a nice suspension.
Any shock absorber with the coil over the shock is a coilover.
Some coilovers have an adjustment to raise or lower the ride height.

The coil spring over the shock does not make a stiff ride.
Harder spring rates and stiff springs make a stiff ride when the wheel goes over a bump.
In other words, if the spring is hard to compress, the bump transfers to the suspension/to the body.

1.Some people think that hard stiff springs make a car handle flatter.
Unless you are getting airborn, a spring that's hard to compress, with a high spring rate
is not needed. Springs are to hold the car up and not to prevent the car from leaning.

2.What keeps the car handling flat and not leaning, is a sway bar that connects the two front springs together.
As the car goes around a corner, the inside spring opens, as the outside spring compresses.
As the outside spring compresses, through the sway bar, the inside spring attempts to compress
and the car resists leaning. "Hard to compress" springs are a poor substitute for a sway bar.
"Hard to compress" springs give a bumpy ride in a straight line.

3. To keep a "nice" comfortable daily ride, stock springs will hold the car up without having a
harsh ride from having a high spring rate.

4.To make a car handle, a sway bar keeps it from leaning.
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"Filling up the wheel wells" is something for a show car and is not related to handling.
Some people adjust the car down until there is no spring travel, and that lack of spring travel
while compressing, is about equal to the lack of spring travel due to a hard spring/high spring rate
creating a lack of spring travel while not compressing.
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Related to "Filling up the wheel wells"........ if a car can be set down low enough, to where the wheel centers are above
the suspension pivots, the car will resist leaning at the cost of lesser suspension travel, a harsh bumpy ride, and dragging on
things like driveways and parking "docks".
 

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Well since this thread is going

I heard these cars got some rear camber problems so i don't know if giving it that drop you will need camber bushings Im not sure if you do but i heard people installing these bushings even without the car lowered.
 

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I heard these cars got some rear camber problems so i don't know if giving it that drop you will need camber bushings Im not sure if you do but i heard people installing these bushings even without the car lowered.
Some people have camber problems because they lower it beyond the normal suspension travel.
They get "the look", but also get the problems.

Everyone has their own idea of what a car should look like, so I don't try to convince anyone otherwise.
I don't "have to be right".

When a guy says to me his oil pan is one cigarette butt off the ground,
that's his business, and I presume he carries extra oil pans in the trunk.

1 1/2 inches is within the normal suspension travel and should not cause camber problems.
However, it's always a good idea to have adjustability for people who want it.

If a person does not want adjustability, then they don't have to spend the money.
 

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well im getting a B12 Kit which includes eibach springs and lowers it an 1.5 inches so i got the bushings for camber adjustment in the rear but now im wondering if its necessary to replace the front lower rear ball joints with adjustable ones... but will a 1.5 inches or less really cause much of a issue what im worried about is bad tire wear
 

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well im getting a B12 Kit which includes eibach springs and lowers it an 1.5 inches so i got the bushings for camber adjustment in the rear but now im wondering if its necessary to replace the front lower rear ball joints with adjustable ones... but will a 1.5 inches or less really cause much of a issue what im worried about is bad tire wear
Ride height blocks support the car at the sides and hold the car off the ground in the absence of springs.

The way to find out if there will be an issue is to
Make ride height blocks so the car sits the way it is now (stock).
Put a camber gauge on it. Write it down.

Jack up the car and remove the springs, put in the 1.5 springs, and get any rubber cushion oriented to where the end of the spring is,
and get any spring end lined up with the place where it sits.
Drive the car a week .
Make ride height blocks for the new 1.5 springs.
Put a camber gauge on it. Write it down.
Compare the camber readings.

Since I believe in the Eibach engineering, my guess is that the difference in camber readings will
be approximately within +/- factory tolerances.

Then,
If you had bought the adjustable lower control arms, with springs out and sitting on the lower ride height blocks,
you would be able to adjust the camber back to what it was (factory stock) with the stock springs.

If camber is within the +/- factory tolerances when you had the tall ride height blocks in, then it doesn't need adjusting.

Then, put the low 1.5 springs back in, rotate the springs to orient them, drive it a week and check camber again.
it should read the same as it did when it was stock and if not, make new ride height blocks, put the camber gauge on it again and write down the reading again.....then go back to the above steps and repeat the process until you get the same camber readings as factory stock.

That's how I would do it on my own car, and anyone is free to do it their own way.
I don't have to be right and since I'm not working on your car,
I'm not responsible for what you do to your car.
 

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I have 2017 Scat Pack Charger...I had the Eibach pro kit springs put on it...mine also required camber kit for the back & I had the front changed out to adjustable control arms. Next week its getting 9.5x20 wheels in front w/ 275s and 10.5 wheels back w/ 315s. Yes...I will be running spacers for the rear to clear any rubbing. Oh and I have a front APR spitter. I'm HAPPY with my set up...sure u have to go slow or at angles over dips/ bumps/driveways...why wouldn't u anyway? The ride feels no different than it did stock...still a bit stiff. Overall....I'd say go for it...ENJOY UR CAR ♡♡♡
 

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I have 2017 Scat Pack Charger...I had the Eibach pro kit springs put on it...mine also required camber kit for the back & I had the front changed out to adjustable control arms. Next week its getting 9.5x20 wheels in front w/ 275s and 10.5 wheels back w/ 315s. Yes...I will be running spacers for the rear to clear any rubbing. Oh and I have a front APR spitter. I'm HAPPY with my set up...sure u have to go slow or at angles over dips/ bumps/driveways...why wouldn't u anyway? The ride feels no different than it did stock...still a bit stiff. Overall....I'd say go for it...ENJOY UR CAR ♡♡♡
Your car looks good. Where did you get the adjustable control arms? Have any pics of them?
 

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I have 2017 Scat Pack Charger...I had the Eibach pro kit springs put on it...mine also required camber kit for the back & I had the front changed out to adjustable control arms. Next week its getting 9.5x20 wheels in front w/ 275s and 10.5 wheels back w/ 315s. Yes...I will be running spacers for the rear to clear any rubbing. Oh and I have a front APR spitter. I'm HAPPY with my set up...sure u have to go slow or at angles over dips/ bumps/driveways...why wouldn't u anyway? The ride feels no different than it did stock...still a bit stiff. Overall....I'd say go for it...ENJOY UR CAR ♡♡♡
Looks great! Did you get your new wheel set after all?
 
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