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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all,
I just got done running an ohms test on all 8 fuel injectors on my 2006 5.7L Charger and 6 of them sat at 11.5 ohms and 2 of them sat at 11.2 ohms. From what I can find online remanufactured fuel injectors specs show them being at 12.5 ohms. Is it time to replace all 8 fuel injectors? Currently at 153k miles on the charger and have no idea if fuel injectors were ever replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice and help.

(01/15/2022 Edit: Changed thread title from "Time To Replace Fuel Injectors?.." to "Dropped Valve Seats")
 

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Prime:
I don't believe you have an issue there. it would be very unusual for all 8 injectors to fail at once. If you had one at say, 25, or 2 ohms, that unit would be suspect. What is the issue you are working on?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Prime:
I don't believe you have an issue there. it would be very unusual for all 8 injectors to fail at once. If you had one at say, 25, or 2 ohms, that unit would be suspect. What is the issue you are working on?

Don
Oh okay cool! Thanks for the info. My current situation is in another discussion. Here’s the link: Misfires…Rough Idle/Stalling..P0300 Constantly…
Any help or advice over there is greatly appreciated :)
 

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Hey all,
I just got done running an ohms test on all 8 fuel injectors on my 2006 5.7L Charger and 6 of them sat at 11.5 ohms and 2 of them sat at 11.2 ohms. From what I can find online remanufactured fuel injectors specs show them being at 12.5 ohms. Is it time to replace all 8 fuel injectors? Currently at 153k miles on the charger and have no idea if fuel injectors were ever replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice and help.
What kind of multimeter did you use to obtain those results?

If it was a cheaper one, I’d be more inclined to say the device isn’t giving you an accurate reading. Also, don’t forget to measure the the resistance of the probes themselves and subtract that from any readings they give.

No matter what quality multimeter you’re using, make sure its battery(s) is fully charged. A low power battery can skew readings of the device pretty easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What kind of multimeter did you use to obtain those results?

If it was a cheaper one, I’d be more inclined to say the device isn’t giving you an accurate reading. Also, don’t forget to measure the the resistance of the probes themselves and subtract that from any readings they give.

No matter what quality multimeter you’re using, make sure its battery(s) is fully charged. A low power battery can skew readings of the device pretty easily.
i used this multimeter which I just bought last week since my old one which was the cheap 3.99 version started to malfunction and I didn’t really like the multimeter to begin with. I’ll rerun a test on all them and see if it yields better results. It’s just I keep looking at fuel injectors for a 2006 5.7L Charger and they all say 12.5 ohms and if mine are currently at 11.5 ohms after the second test wouldn’t that mean they’re faulty and needs replaced?
link to multimeter: 11 Function Digital Multimeter with Audible Continuity
 

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Prime:
Most electrical components have a tolerance range. I don't know what the spec is for these injectors, but 1 ohm is not a large difference. As I previously mentioned, it is highly unlikely that all of them would fail at once. Most vehicles go to the auto graveyard with their original injectors. As GertFrobe mentions, you'll want a decent meter to make such measurements.

After a reread of your initial post on the other thread, do I understand that one head dropped one or more valve seats, and you did not pull both, and have them gone through at 152k?

Don
 

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i used this multimeter which I just bought last week since my old one which was the cheap 3.99 version started to malfunction and I didn’t really like the multimeter to begin with. I’ll rerun a test on all them and see if it yields better results. It’s just I keep looking at fuel injectors for a 2006 5.7L Charger and they all say 12.5 ohms and if mine are currently at 11.5 ohms after the second test wouldn’t that mean they’re faulty and needs replaced?
link to multimeter: 11 Function Digital Multimeter with Audible Continuity
That multimeter’s manual states it’s readings on the 200 ohm setting will be accurate within 0.8%, which equals about 1.6 ohms either direction. So if you’re measuring 11.5 ohms, it’s fine, as 12.5 ohms is within its expected range of error correction.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Prime:
Most electrical components have a tolerance range. I don't know what the spec is for these injectors, but 1 ohm is not a large difference. As I previously mentioned, it is highly unlikely that all of them would fail at once. Most vehicles go to the auto graveyard with their original injectors. As GertFrobe mentions, you'll want a decent meter to make such measurements.

After a reread of your initial post on the other thread, do I understand that one head dropped one or more valve seats, and you did not pull both, and have them gone through at 152k?

Don
I replaced both valve cover gaskets now and made sure to torque all bolts to the specs I found. From what I can tell all rods and springs look good and not broken, bent or messed up. I was able to finally get it to idle on its own about 3-4 times before needing to hold my foot on the gas pedal to get it to start up and run until I let my foot off. While the engine did idle and run on its own it was a very rough idle and the engine and entire car shook and vibrated rapidly with P0300 still getting thrown after some time pasted. I also noticed the red lightning bolt symbol came back on for both the old and new throttle body’s when I swapped them out to see if maybe one was just defective. It’s like the engine isn’t getting hardly any air when it was running by itself because the throttle body remained in a closed position and didn’t open to the respected degree it needed to be when I even revved up the engine. There’s still smoke that seeps out the intake air filter after the car is off from idling. Im wondering if maybe one or both of the cats could be defective. My only problem is that I’m not getting any codes except for P0300. If the cats are going bad or are defective wouldn’t there also be codes from the O2 sensors at the very least? Also another thing I noticed when it idled rough on its own exhaust was sputtering out of both mufflers, but I’m guessing that’s normal with a rough idle and heavy shaking engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That multimeter’s manual states it’s readings on the 200 ohm setting will be accurate within 0.8%, which equals about 1.6 ohms either direction. So if you’re measuring 11.5 ohms, it’s fine, as 12.5 ohms is within its expected range of error correction.
Thank you! I probably should’ve been a bit more smarter and read the manual more than I did. I’ve just been impatient since I haven’t been able to drive my car since Dec. 5th..
 

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I replaced both valve cover gaskets now and made sure to torque all bolts to the specs I found. From what I can tell all rods and springs look good and not broken, bent or messed up. I was able to finally get it to idle on its own about 3-4 times before needing to hold my foot on the gas pedal to get it to start up and run until I let my foot off. While the engine did idle and run on its own it was a very rough idle and the engine and entire car shook and vibrated rapidly with P0300 still getting thrown after some time pasted. I also noticed the red lightning bolt symbol came back on for both the old and new throttle body’s when I swapped them out to see if maybe one was just defective. It’s like the engine isn’t getting hardly any air when it was running by itself because the throttle body remained in a closed position and didn’t open to the respected degree it needed to be when I even revved up the engine. There’s still smoke that seeps out the intake air filter after the car is off from idling. Im wondering if maybe one or both of the cats could be defective. My only problem is that I’m not getting any codes except for P0300. If the cats are going bad or are defective wouldn’t there also be codes from the O2 sensors at the very least? Also another thing I noticed when it idled rough on its own exhaust was sputtering out of both mufflers, but I’m guessing that’s normal with a rough idle and heavy shaking engine?
Did you just acquire this car? Has it ever run right while you’ve had it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you just acquire this car? Has it ever run right while you’ve had it?
Just got the car back in november. it ran perfectly fine until dec 5th.
 

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Just got the car back in november. it ran perfectly fine until dec 5th.
Did anything happen, like an overheat, that could have cause it to start running so poorly, or did it just start this out of the blue?
 

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@ GertFrobe:
You saw that this engine dropped valve seats, correct? It look to me like only one head was removed.

"After a reread of your initial post on the other thread, do I understand that one head dropped one or more valve seats, and you did not pull both, and have them gone through at 152k?"

I asked earlier, and he has not cleared this up?

Don
 

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@ GertFrobe:
You saw that this engine dropped valve seats, correct? It look to me like only one head was removed.

"After a reread of your initial post on the other thread, do I understand that one head dropped one or more valve seats, and you did not pull both, and have them gone through at 152k?"

I asked earlier, and he has not cleared this up?

Don
No, but that was where I was headed.

I think some compression testing may be in order at the very least, compression leak down as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did anything happen, like an overheat, that could have cause it to start running so poorly, or did it just start this out of the blue?
sorry for the late replies, was out all day and didn't have time to respond. Originally it did overheat after too much coolant was added on my part. I did actually manage to finally get it to idle by itself and it sounded just as it did when I bought it back in october but after about 30 or so seconds it started to misfire and slowly idle poorly. I was actually able to put it in drive and move it about 20 inches or so. But I think I narrowed it down to a vacuum leak since at one point it did toss the code "P2172 - High Airflow/Vacuum Leak Detected (Instantaneous Accumulation)". I believe one of the intake manifold bolts snapped when trying to torque it to required spec and its creating a bad seal. I don't believe I dropped any valve seats, I did finally re-pull both valve covers off and re installed the new valve cover gaskets which it did make a significant improvement when idling. Although somewhere on the passenger side oil keeps running down the back side of it and onto the catalytic converter and creating smoke from the converter being so hot. I think i'm just gonna get another new gasket set for that side as I re-installed it twice now and the problem still happens. While i'm at it i'm also gonna get new bolts for it since some are a bit rusty looking and look to have probably never been replaced since 2006. I also installed a catch can to help keep the intake manifold clean. My only confusion rn is every now and then after resetting codes and testing the car it'll sometimes throw a vacuum leak code alongside P0300 and other times it won't and instead throw out that both banks are running rich alongside P0300. It's weird. I did replace the throttle body but I don't know if I actually gotta do the "relearn program" and i'm not talking about the one when you slowly push on the accelerator pedal and release it but the actual relearn program. Would you know if the Diablo Intune i3 is able to do that? I just received that in the mail yesterday and hope to retune the car once I get the problem fixed. Thank you all for the help again btw. If needed I can post my new recent Freeze Frame/Diagnostic Report that I have taken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also would anyone know exactly what kind of bolts I need for the intake manifold? I'm having a hard time finding which ones I actually need as each website has something different and always says its not compatible with my 2006 charger.
 

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Also would anyone know exactly what kind of bolts I need for the intake manifold? I'm having a hard time finding which ones I actually need as each website has something different and always says its not compatible with my 2006 charger.
Those bolts don’t normally come out IIRC, so I don’t know if you can find a Mopar replacement. You’ll just have to find an extra bolt that threads in and can tighten down.

The torque on those isn’t much. Something like 108 in/lb, or about 8-9 ft/lb. If you don’t have a torque wrench that goes that low, just tighten it down by hand as far as you can and then about 1/4 turn with a socket and ratchet. That should be good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those bolts don’t normally come out IIRC, so I don’t know if you can find a Mopar replacement. You’ll just have to find an extra bolt that threads in and can tighten down.

The torque on those isn’t much. Something like 108 in/lb, or about 8-9 ft/lb. If you don’t have a torque wrench that goes that low, just tighten it down by hand as far as you can and then about 1/4 turn with a socket and ratchet. That should be good enough.
Oh okay, I'll do my best with finding a replacement then thank you! I do have a torque wrench that does go as low at 10 in/Ibs and as high as 210 in/Ibs or something like that. I had it set to 105 in/Ibs from what other forum posts listed and all torqued down and was good to go except just 1 and next thing I hear when I went to torque to which I just hand tightened to that point was a loud metal snap noise. So that's just fantastic and what I wanted to hear after getting the intake manifold on for the 2nd time. Just my luck. Thanks for all the help so far!
 

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sorry for the late replies, was out all day and didn't have time to respond. Originally it did overheat after too much coolant was added on my part. I did actually manage to finally get it to idle by itself and it sounded just as it did when I bought it back in october but after about 30 or so seconds it started to misfire and slowly idle poorly. I was actually able to put it in drive and move it about 20 inches or so. But I think I narrowed it down to a vacuum leak since at one point it did toss the code "P2172 - High Airflow/Vacuum Leak Detected (Instantaneous Accumulation)". I believe one of the intake manifold bolts snapped when trying to torque it to required spec and its creating a bad seal. I don't believe I dropped any valve seats, I did finally re-pull both valve covers off and re installed the new valve cover gaskets which it did make a significant improvement when idling. Although somewhere on the passenger side oil keeps running down the back side of it and onto the catalytic converter and creating smoke from the converter being so hot. I think i'm just gonna get another new gasket set for that side as I re-installed it twice now and the problem still happens. While i'm at it i'm also gonna get new bolts for it since some are a bit rusty looking and look to have probably never been replaced since 2006. I also installed a catch can to help keep the intake manifold clean. My only confusion rn is every now and then after resetting codes and testing the car it'll sometimes throw a vacuum leak code alongside P0300 and other times it won't and instead throw out that both banks are running rich alongside P0300. It's weird. I did replace the throttle body but I don't know if I actually gotta do the "relearn program" and i'm not talking about the one when you slowly push on the accelerator pedal and release it but the actual relearn program. Would you know if the Diablo Intune i3 is able to do that? I just received that in the mail yesterday and hope to retune the car once I get the problem fixed. Thank you all for the help again btw. If needed I can post my new recent Freeze Frame/Diagnostic Report that I have taken.
Tuner device can’t do a throttle relearn. AlphaODB can, or the dealership.

What kind of TB is it? Where did it come from?

Have you pulled the spark plugs to check their condition? They may be able to tell quite a bit about what’s going on.

In the absence of a compression/leak down test, a vacuum gauge is about the only other thing that will point you in the right direction I think. Unless the spark plugs can tell you something, that is
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Tuner device can’t do a throttle relearn. AlphaODB can, or the dealership.

What kind of TB is it? Where did it come from?

Have you pulled the spark plugs to check their condition? They may be able to tell quite a bit about what’s going on.

In the absence of a compression/leak down test, a vacuum gauge is about the only other thing that will point you in the right direction I think. Unless the spark plugs can tell you something, that is
I did re pull all the new spark plugs and all were honestly good looking besides from when it ran rich the few times it did. But when it doesn't run rich they look perfectly normal and I checked all them to make sure the gap size was to .045 or close to it being .001 lower or higher. The throttle body came from advance auto. If I remember correctly since I currently don't have the receipt as thats in the car which is currently not at my location it should be this one: Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance. I did just buy a vacuum test/fuel pressure gauge set at Harbor Freight but have yet had a chance to preform a vacuum test.
 
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