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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had mixed emotions about writing this thread. The right thing to do is help every one out, so I did the right thing and wrote it.
I am sure that writing this will make some salesman upset and downright angry. I do not blame them. They are trying to make a living, but they don't have to make a fortune and not on me or other informed people. I am referring to the rumors at many dealerships concerning the price of the new Charger.
I was planning on purchasing a 300C, but I did not like the wood steering wheel and I wanted a base 300C. I heard the gambit from "We're marking them up above sticker." to "We don't pay invoice because we buy on volume and we will sell you one on the lot for LESS than invoice." (Yes, a $38,900 MSRP 300C for $34,000.) (A $34,500 MSRP 300C for $31,000) These were dealers in the DFW area. In Atlanta Car Max sells them for $500 over dealer invoice which is a little higher but a far cry from a mark-up and they are not the best deal out there ever on vehicles. I travel and I go from DFW to ATL so I checked many places.
I am glad that I held out for a Charger. I like the Magnum style interior and I like the exterior better than the 300C's. I am looking at a Charger equipped the same as a 300C with SGII and this comes out to about $28,000 plus any markup if my dealer doesn't get one in like I want.
I am not trying to put anyone in the "poor house" by posting this information. I am just trying to help people realize that some dealers will LIE, CHEAT, AND STEAL. They will even tell you that they are helping you. There are other dealers that will tell you the truth. I had one that I will definitely go back to on future deals tell me that "Yes, we do not pay invoice and we are marking the car up by selling at invoice, but because of availability we will not sell them for less than $1000 over invoice. This was more than I wanted to pay, but less than the $2500 MSRP mark-up and very honest and admirable.
I hope that this helps those other tight-wad, cheapskate, thrifty, people out there stick to their guns and keep from being bamboozled into paying more than they have to on a Charger. On the other hand, the more that the dealers make off of everyone else, the less they have to profit on me.
 

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The question has been raised " How much should I pay for my Charger?" The answer is up to the individual. Fluggman could have bought one for a grand over invoice, but chose not to. Depending on what options the car had, I might have jumped at that deal and still others might have bought with just a small discount off MSRP, some may have even payed MSRP or more. "If you pay more than invoice price you are stupid." rants abound on these boards. The fact is, only the accountant at the dealer knows how much a dealer is paying for a particular car. I was friends with the lead comptroller of a large dealership conglomerate here in denver and she told me that they NEVERfailed to make money on any car deal. I was niave to the inner workings of the dealership network, as are 99.9999% of the public. FACT: all dealers pay the same amount for the same vehicle...FACT: large dealers receive larger holdbacks and marketing dollars than smaller dealers and on certain vehicles, that can be a pot of cash that YOUwill never know about. FACT: unless you pay cash, the price of the car means nothing. example, I bought a 2005 gmc canyon...it was an "ad unit" @ $12000.00 my monthly payment is 278.00 becaused I financed through my credit union. A co-worker got a "better" deal (he thought) because he financed with GMAC and got a $1000 rebate, his payment? $340.00/ mo. for the same length of time. He paid less on the buyers order, but more overall because his didn't understand terms of finance, as most people don't.FICTION: ALL dealerships wan't to rip you off. Most just want to make money by comming to a fair arrangement with the buyer. What's fair? the highest ammount you are willing to pay and the lowest amount the dealer is willing to sell for...The tip here is get a price in mind( remember unless you pay cash, that is a monthly ammount) and stick to it! If the dealer doesn't accept your offer go somewhere else, or come back in a week( if the car you want is still there) and offer your deal again.FICTION: car salesmen are all liars. some are, but most are hard working people like you and me just trying to make a living. Almost all work on some type of commission and the good ones get you emotionally involved in the buying process, so you become attached to getting that car, that night,right now. again the tip here is to stay firm, write it down if you have to and never try to rationalize the purchase by trying to give up something to get something else. example, I will just give up eating so I can afford that srt-8, hey I needed to loose a few pounds anyway! FACT: THE REAL PEOPLE TO WATCH OUT FOR IS THE FINANCE GUYS! If at all possible try to arrange for financing in advance witha dollar ammount already agreed upon through your bank. This turns you into a cash buyer. Only tell them you have financing arranged after you make your deal! Trust me, the finance office wants your business, too. One time when I bought a car this way I saved 12 buck a month because the dealership got me a better intrest rate...over 5 years this came out to $ 720 bucks! I hope some of these tips will help!! good luck and happy hunting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chargershed

I totally agree with you and thank you for realizing that fact. My troubles were with the finance guys trying to pull fast ones and I am glad that you added to this subject. Buyer Beware is important and I feel that the better educated we are as consumers the better off everone is in the long run. ( I am still glad that somebody is willing to pay KKK over MSRP because that allows me to pay less!!!)

JohnnyG

In my opinion from what I have seen the mark up on these cars over invoice is only about $2500, so from the numbers I have seen MSRP is 42k on a 300C and 39K should be the MSRP on a Charger and these cars are even more limited and in higer demand than regular ones. I do not want the SRT because I feel that for 10K I can get Brembo brakes, a supercharger, exhaust, upgraded suspension, and still have 4k to play with and have a better car.
 

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All dealers get "New" cars for the same price, and holdback on "exact" models is the same for all dealers.The only bonus that volume gets you, is more objective money at the end of the month. However, each dealer has the same opportunity at the bonus money and it is the same amount per car for each dealer if the objectives are met. It would be illegal for a manufacturer to sell the same car to 2 different dealers at different prices.
 

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I bought a 2005 gmc canyon...it was an "ad unit" @ $12000.00 my monthly payment is 278.00 becaused I financed through my credit union. A co-worker got a "better" deal (he thought) because he financed with GMAC and got a $1000 rebate, his payment? $340.00/ mo. for the same length of time.
I'm sorry, but I have to call "BULL SH!T"
I can't make that math work.
You have to back that up with some terms from the two deals.

If you borrowed $12000 @ 5.3% in a 4 year loan. That would put your payment at $278 per month. And you would pay $1343.39 in interest over the life of the loan.

Your friend must have borrowed $14350 to have a $340 payment for the same term as you (4 years). OR he got a loan for 3 years.

When the dealer asks, "what do you want your monthly payment to be"? Tell him $0.00.
Total cost is what you want to talk about.
You should determine how much you can afford before talking to the dealer.
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apartments for sale Pattaya
 

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I am a member of a few chevy boards, and there, we have many many many members who work for GM or thier suppliers and are able to get GM discount certificates (usually they get 1 or 2 a month each). This cert will get you a price slightly below invoice and is a no haggle deal.... just wondering if anyone here knows if dodge does something similar? Or if there are any memebrs that get these kind of certs, but through dodge to help fellow members out?

Just a thought.... :happy:
 

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Yes they do.
I am considering trading my magnum in on a Daytona because of this.
I bought the Magnum in March before I found out that Danaher CO. (the owners of my employer) is a supplier to DCX. This entitles me to Preferred Pricing.
This is 1% below invoice.
My Magnum only has 5600 miles on it so; DCX could sell it as a new car (financially speaking).
So, if I can get around 29000 trading ($34500 sticker, only owe $31600) the preferred pricing allows me to brake even in the trade.

It really pisses me off that I missed the discount on the first one. ($3000 worth)
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Yes they do.
I am considering trading my magnum in on a Daytona because of this.
I bought the Magnum in March before I found out that Danaher CO. (the owners of my employer) is a supplier to DCX. This entitles me to Preferred Pricing.
This is 1% below invoice.
My Magnum only has 5600 miles on it so; DCX could sell it as a new car (financially speaking).
So, if I can get around 29000 trading ($34500 sticker, only owe $31600) the preferred pricing allows me to brake even in the trade.
An update:
The discount is not active yet. One dealer said they had no discounts at all. The other said they usually come out about a week after the release date.

SO, I hope the weekend after next will be a good weekend to shop.
The dealer also said that I could not place an order for a Daytona. He said they have already been produced and allocated. No new ones until next year
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maneval69 said:
The dealer also said that I could not place an order for a Daytona. He said they have already been produced and allocated. No new ones until next year
Ok... um... I really hope that your dealer is wrong... :cry:
 

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maneval69 said:
Yes they do.
I am considering trading my magnum in on a Daytona because of this.
I bought the Magnum in March before I found out that Danaher CO. (the owners of my employer) is a supplier to DCX. This entitles me to Preferred Pricing.
This is 1% below invoice.
My Magnum only has 5600 miles on it so; DCX could sell it as a new car (financially speaking).
So, if I can get around 29000 trading ($34500 sticker, only owe $31600) the preferred pricing allows me to brake even in the trade.

It really pisses me off that I missed the discount on the first one. ($3000 worth)

No dealer is going to give you $29,000 for a used car that he pays about $31,000 new(dealer cost). Then its a Chrysler expect about $23,000 max.
 

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Ok... um... I really hope that your dealer is wrong...
So do I. Please call your local dealer and ask!


No dealer is going to give you $29,000 for a used car that he pays about $31,000 new(dealer cost). Then its a Chrysler expect about $23,000 max.
I know the dealer will ask at least 32000 for my car. I agree that 29000 is wishful thinking but my car is still classified as new (financially) because it has less than 10000 miles on it. I know they will offer at least 27000. 23000 come on that's crazy.
I will post the trade in value after they give me a number. Probable 2 weeks.
Has anyone traded in a Magnum RT?
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why not go to www.kbb.com or edmunds to see what the trade in value would be?

as far as calling a local dealer... I hate dealing with salesmen (sorry to any that are on here) so I went through www.dodge.com build the charger daytona I want and did the get a quote option.... but hit back at the dealer select option and requested a quote from every dodge dealer in the Valley...

So I will see what kind of e-mails I get back here in the next few days....
 

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I called the Affiliate Rewards Program head quaters today and got the scoop on Charger discounts.
The discount has not been activated yet. DCX will evaluate sales in the first few weeks then either activate the discount or wait another couple of weeks.

In any case I will be waiting for the discount.
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I was able to order my black SXT (yes, you read that right...I'm getting something other than an R/T) using an employee discount. With the wheel upgrade, sun roof, tax, tags, and liscense included, I paid $25,100(ish) out the door. :biggrin:

I should have my car next week. :drool:
 

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I'm not sure what the discount was. The sticker for the car is just over $27k with the options that I got, and TT&L in VA should bring the price up to between $29k and $30k. I can't remember what my price was before TT&L, but my OTD price is between $4k and $5k less than what I would have had to pay without my EP discount.

My salesman gave me the price sheet for my car when I ordered it, and the price that I paid was actually a few hundred dollars less than the price that he said that he could get the car for (which was also listed on the price sheet).

Overall, I think that I got a pretty good deal. :biggrin:
 
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