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joescat said:
Okay, not related to Chargers at all. . . but, you can use any night vision device to see the beam from an infrared remote control. Useful for testing ones that don't have an indicator light and are suspected of not functioning. And, you can use any infrared beam at all to light up the night, and signal another a long way away.
You can also use a camcorder to see infrared remotes. Some digital cameras are sensitive in this invisible light band, too.
 

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I discovered that the cruise will knock itself off if the car get enough unusual vibration. I was driving in a light rain with it on the highway and came into a gully washer, @ the first large puddle of water it knocked the cruise off from the force of the water under the car.
It's possible that the large puddle of water caused the traction control system to kick in for a moment, and the TCS is known to deactivate cruise control.
 

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Does your car seem too sluggish? Pull fuses #11 #14 and #16!
Get in your car...Turn the ignition to "ON"; then turn it and hold it at "START" (it will not start). Wait 5-10 seconds until you hear the chime (mine beeped 3 times). Turn the ignition back to "ON"; turn the ignition back to "START" until you hear the chimes a second time. Put the fuses back in place (DO NOT mix them up) Start your car... The Computer is now reset: go "BURN RUBBER" (Tapout)

what exactly does this reset? does is mess with the esp??
Pulling fuse 11 for a short while (something like 30 seconds) erases the adaptive learning in the engine computer. This forces the computer to start factory-fresh in some aspects and relearn. Many recommend this procedure after doing a performance upgrade (i.e., CAI, cat-back, etc.). The computer will eventually relearn anyway, this just speeds up the process.

Pulling fuse 11 also clears the check engine light and any codes that you can display in the instrument cluster (computer remembers them anyway, though).
Not sure if pulling other other fuses and doing the little ignition key dance is necessary or not.
 

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Were you driving up a mountain, or going 175 kph? You're SUPPOSED to have 2 gals left when it comes on. (Those are US gallons not Imperial gallons though, you crazy canadian! :grin: ) Mine went on today, and about 9 miles later it took 17.2 gallons, which meant I still had ~2 gallons in my tank... :smoke:
So HAL likes you better than the rest of us. Go ahead, rub it in.
 

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My dealer just informed me that it is impossible to activate anything that the car did not come with.
They can not activate DRL's or Headlights on with wiper blades.
I gave them the instructions from post and they said, "Anyone who doesn't know what they are talking about can put anything on the Internet. Your care is not set up to have [DRLs or head lights on with wipers] and it can only be done by rewiring your car and adding the options. It is not worth the cost. Watch out what those Internet people say because they will void your warranty."

Anyone know of a dealer in Wisconsin that is not a complete tool? Pleas PM me if you do.
If you have auto headlights (or even if you've done the auto headlights mod) they can absolutely add the headlights on with wipers. I did my auto headlights and took my car to the dealer. I heard the same story but convinced them to try (they said it wouldn't do anything). Know what? The headlights come on with the wipers now!

Can't help you on the DRL's but I'm going to go with the forum knowledge that it can be done with the StarScan, even if the dealer doesn't think it will work.
 

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Does this work for all engines, or just the HEMIs? I have the 3.5L.
On 2006-2007 models fuse #11 supplies power to the PCM, the module that contains many of the learned adaptives. Pulling fuse 11 for about 30 seconds clears the memory. I don't believe this applies just to the HEMIs. However, there were electrical changes starting in 2008 so the fuse number may be different.
 

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I read somewhere (I think it was on here and have been searching for 2 hours now) that when you install something like a K&N Cold Air Intake or new exhaust you're supposed to reset the computer. Is this the only way to do it?
It's usually not necessary to reset the computer - it learns and adapts as you drive. Pulling the fuses simply resets what it's already learned to save the time it takes to unlearn.
 

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Is it just my car that doesn't have fuse #14 installed?? I have been reading this computer reset option and maybe it is vehicle model specific.
They changed the electrical system quite a bit starting with the 2008 model year. Fuse 14 applies to 2006-2007 model year cars (and 2005 Magnums and 300's).
 

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Is there anyway to continously view the voltmeter and still have use of the steering wheel controls? Also, can you drive the vehicle in diagnostic mode?
You can't use the steering wheel controls and remain in diagnostic mode to see the voltmeter.

Yes, you can drive in diag mode all the time if you want.
 

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Would you elaborate a little more on how to get to these, for those of us that are not familiar with them? Good piece of info if I can figure out how to get there.
Press and hold the compass and music note buttons on the steering wheel at the same time, hold for about 8 seconds. The EVIC display will change to the diagnostic mode. Up/down arrows change the screen you're on.
 

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For owners with 'heated seat' feature:

Sometimes a passenger will press the seat heater buttons while you are cranking the engine, and... the button lights 'get mixed up' (you can set to 'high' [both lights on for a button], but not 'low' [only one light for a button].

I discovered that you don't have to turn off the engine to fix this... just turn the key to 'Start' (all the way to the right) for a second while your engine is running - and it fixes itself. The Charger has a 'smart' starter, so it won't try to crank your engine when it's already running.

P.S. - Don't hold your key at 'Start' too long (about 8 seconds) or you may disable your ESP and ABS completely (that feature already mentioned in earlier posts)... (it depends on the model year of your vehicle).
Turning the key does all kinds of neat stuff, don't it? Thanks for the info!
 

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I have 2 07 SRT8's, I know it's crazy but it's true. I somehow was able to get the song/artist radio info to stay on all the time on 1 of them, but I can't seem to get this to work on the other. Is there anyone out there that can help?

Thanks,
John
If you're using the REC (nav) units, I think you have to make sure the clock displays are set the same, then press the INFO button. There's a specific way that the clock display has to be set in order for the song/artist info to stay instead of disappearing again. I think the Audio Clock Display has to be set to Small.
 

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I know that this is an old post and I haven't seen this addressed anywhere else in this thread so I fig I'll go ahead and do it...

The service manual for our rides ('06) mentions how to troublshoot the seat memory feature and the entire system as well. But I haven't found it in the parts manual yet.

FYI I'm talking about page 8E-274 (or adobe page# 1584)
Unfortunately, Chargers didn't have the memory seat option, only the 300's offered that. The service manual you have covers the Chrysler 300, Dodge Magnum, and Dodge Charger. In many cases, they don't indicate when some of the text applies only to a subset of those vehicles.
 

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I've read that is very simple to program/reprogram a keyfob in a 06/07 Charger. Am I right?

Thank you
It's very easy to program an additional key if you already have 2 working ones. If you don't have 2 working keys, you'll need to have the dealer program new ones. I don't believe the keyfob (remote control part) is offered or configurable separate from the key.
 

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2 working keyfobs? What do u mean? My keyfob plus and additional one to be programmed?
No, you need to already have 2 keys that operate the car; then you can program a third (or more) yourself. If you only have 1 key that operates the car, the dealer needs to program the second one for you.
 

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From what I recall, in the US most dealerships have been charging around $200 for the key and programming together. I don't think you can get a key pre-programmed and shipped. You might also see if a locksmith local to you can program one.

Blank, unprogrammed keys are available on ebay but some dealerships and locksmiths won't touch them.
 
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