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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short, my car got hit by an SUV a couple months ago and I had to get a new fender. They blended the paint from the fender onto the hood and (apparently) onto the door. I say apparently because when I demolded my car today, I saw this:





This is the ONLY door with a problem and it's the front passenger; right next to the fender that was replaced. What the hell do I do now? Junkman help please!!
 

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does the body shop warrenty their work? i would take it back and have them fix it.
 

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pretty much take that back!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you guys saying that the body shop should have removed the molding before blending and that's what I should tell them? Or just beg them to redo it because it's "warrantied"?
 

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it looks like that because you had the molding on and the sun has faded your paint a little and in about 2 weeks where your molding was will look like the rest of the car. it happens to most when they remove the molding. how old is your car. use some clay on it and wax it and it will start to look better. i have a mango 06 daytona did mine about a month ago and you could see where the molding was when i took it off and now you cant tell at all.
 

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Are you guys saying that the body shop should have removed the molding before blending and that's what I should tell them? Or just beg them to redo it because it's "warrantied"?
Since you did the fender repair before you removed the molding, and the repair was done on a car with molding, and you didn't tell them you planned on removing the molding, the body shop can't be held responsible for failing to predict the future. There was no reason for them to remove the molding and paint under it. Especially since the paint on it needed to be blended too.

I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and repaint/blend the fender and door to make it disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Since you did the fender repair before you removed the molding, and the repair was done on a car with molding, and you didn't tell them you planned on removing the molding, the body shop can't be held responsible for failing to predict the future. There was no reason for them to remove the molding and paint under it. Especially since the paint on it needed to be blended too.

I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and repaint/blend the fender and door to make it disappear.
At no point did they tell me they were going to or had blended the paint onto the door. They told me EXPLICITLY that they would blend the paint onto the HOOD. had they told me they planned on doing the door, I would have told them not to or to remove the molding first. At any rate, if I do bite the bullet,
what can I expect to pay?

And it's not just fading. It's only on that door. I already clayed and waxed. There is a ridge, but only on that door.
 

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At no point did they tell me they were going to or had blended the paint onto the door. They told me EXPLICITLY that they would blend the paint onto the HOOD. had they told me they planned on doing the door, I would have told them not to or to remove the molding first. At any rate, if I do bite the bullet,
what can I expect to pay?

And it's not just fading. It's only on that door. I already clayed and waxed. There is a ridge, but only on that door.
You can probably expect to pay what you did before minus the parts and labor for the fender if you want it done right. $200-300 is my guess but talk to the body shop. Since you are already a customer they might cut you a deal. I'd suggest being nice and asking for a favor. If you start blaming them they might not be so willing to help.;)
 

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You can probably expect to pay what you did before minus the parts and labor for the fender if you want it done right. $200-300 is my guess but talk to the body shop. Since you are already a customer they might cut you a deal. I'd suggest being nice and asking for a favor. If you start blaming them they might not be so willing to help.;)
either way it was a crappy blend job. they should redo it correctly. when i recently had to have the side of my car painted, the body shop asked if they could blend it under the strips that run along either side of the roof. also they had to remove my decals and order new ones even though the area they were painting was much higher on the door. they didnt just tape them off and paint around. it would be the same thing for your moldings

so yes they should have removed the moldings if they were going to spread the paint onto the door and if necessary repaint the molding if it didnt match. that is just lazy shoddy work if they didnt.
 

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does the body shop warrenty their work? i would take it back and have them fix it.
Not for free they won't.

Are you guys saying that the body shop should have removed the molding before blending and that's what I should tell them? Or just beg them to redo it because it's "warrantied"?
The body shop that you dealt with would never remove the molding, paint the door and then replace the molding. That is what a high end body shop would do and the cost of the job would reflect that. The shop that you dealt with was NOT a high end shop and thus, what you see is what you get.

it looks like that because you had the molding on and the sun has faded your paint a little and in about 2 weeks where your molding was will look like the rest of the car. it happens to most when they remove the molding. how old is your car. use some clay on it and wax it and it will start to look better. i have a mango 06 daytona did mine about a month ago and you could see where the molding was when i took it off and now you cant tell at all.
You're right about the fading but it will take a heck of a lot longer than 2 weeks for the paint to fade. You would have to constantly expose that area to direct heat and sunlight for months in order to get it to fade. The only problem is, the paint around it would be fading at the same rate and thus, your fade theory is a wash out. The only way to fix that problem is to paint the door or put the molding back on.

Since you did the fender repair before you removed the molding, and the repair was done on a car with molding, and you didn't tell them you planned on removing the molding, the body shop can't be held responsible for failing to predict the future. There was no reason for them to remove the molding and paint under it. Especially since the paint on it needed to be blended too.

I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and repaint/blend the fender and door to make it disappear.
I agree.

At no point did they tell me they were going to or had blended the paint onto the door. They told me EXPLICITLY that they would blend the paint onto the HOOD. had they told me they planned on doing the door, I would have told them not to or to remove the molding first. At any rate, if I do bite the bullet,
what can I expect to pay?

And it's not just fading. It's only on that door. I already clayed and waxed. There is a ridge, but only on that door.
Claying will do absolutely nothing for this issue. Waxing will only increase the contrast.

either way it was a crappy blend job. they should redo it correctly. when i recently had to have the side of my car painted, the body shop asked if they could blend it under the strips that run along either side of the roof. also they had to remove my decals and order new ones even though the area they were painting was much higher on the door. they didnt just tape them off and paint around. it would be the same thing for your moldings

so yes they should have removed the moldings if they were going to spread the paint onto the door and if necessary repaint the molding if it didnt match. that is just lazy shoddy work if they didnt.
That my friend is the way they do it at the crappy dealerships.
 

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^^^ i agree with your points, i must have been fortunate enough have gone to a high end body shop. oh and being friends with the GM probably helped too

---do you know the body shop that he dealt with? It wouldn't hurt to ask if they would cover it. -JMO
 

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^^^ i agree with your points, i must have been fortunate enough have gone to a high end body shop. oh and being friends with the GM probably helped too

---do you know the body shop that he dealt with? It wouldn't hurt to ask if they would cover it. -JMO
I agree. It never hurts to ask. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was dealing with Ron Carter's body shop in Alvin, TX. Bought the car at Ron Carter Texas City, TX and they have a universal body shop located in Alvin. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they'll do (if anything). I figure I'll try to be somewhat assertive (but respectful!) just enough to not seem like a push-over and see if they'll do it for free, or even at a reduced price. If not, looks like I'm going to bite the bullet bigtime. Those moldings do not look like they're going to go back on; they're all bent up (I tried making them straight again but they're only 95% straight).
 

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Not for free they won't.



The body shop that you dealt with would never remove the molding, paint the door and then replace the molding. That is what a high end body shop would do and the cost of the job would reflect that. The shop that you dealt with was NOT a high end shop and thus, what you see is what you get.



You're right about the fading but it will take a heck of a lot longer than 2 weeks for the paint to fade. You would have to constantly expose that area to direct heat and sunlight for months in order to get it to fade. The only problem is, the paint around it would be fading at the same rate and thus, your fade theory is a wash out. The only way to fix that problem is to paint the door or put the molding back on. the clay and waxing actually does do something it reduces the buildup of the crap that was at the edge of the molding and gives you a smooth paint surface just like the rest of your car.



I agree.



Claying will do absolutely nothing for this issue. Waxing will only increase the contrast.



That my friend is the way they do it at the crappy dealerships.
then why did mine as well as many others fade to match through time? when the paint first sees the sun it will only fade to a certain point. that is why when you remove molding that hasnt seen sun eventually fades to match the rest of the vehicle. the clay and waxing actually does help, it reduces all the build up of grime and crap from where the edge of the molding was. making a smooth surface to match the rest of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
then why did mine as well as many others fade to match through time? when the paint first sees the sun it will only fade to a certain point. that is why when you remove molding that hasnt seen sun eventually fades to match the rest of the vehicle. the clay and waxing actually does help, it reduces all the build up of grime and crap from where the edge of the molding was. making a smooth surface to match the rest of the car.
When you have a claybar, there ought to not be any build-up of grime and crap anymore. This is certainly not the average issue seeing as it's clearly a paint line.
 

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You're right about the fading but it will take a heck of a lot longer than 2 weeks for the paint to fade. You would have to constantly expose that area to direct heat and sunlight for months in order to get it to fade. The only problem is, the paint around it would be fading at the same rate and thus, your fade theory is a wash out. The only way to fix that problem is to paint the door or put the molding back on.
then why did mine as well as many others fade to match through time? when the paint first sees the sun it will only fade to a certain point. that is why when you remove molding that hasnt seen sun eventually fades to match the rest of the vehicle. the clay and waxing actually does help, it reduces all the build up of grime and crap from where the edge of the molding was. making a smooth surface to match the rest of the car.
Junkman, while I agree with you on detailing, I do have to agree with wlagenbach on this one. Not only did I have the 'fade' issue when I took off my moldings, I also had some black marks under them...what looked to be adhesive. Well, that 'adhesive' was UNDER my clearcoat. How do I know? Well, I went to the dealership and they compounded that area but to no avail. They said that they would have to paint my door and blend it into the fender...BUT, they told me that Yellow is a hard color to match nicely (?!?). I came on this forum and asked if others had the same problems and they did...and some told me to wait a few weeks and leave my car in the sun as much as possible. I did, and after about 2 weeks I started to notice a difference. The 'adhesive' was fading and the 'fade' started to blend. Ha, I was happy that i didn't have to have my baby painted. I took my moldings off in August of 2007 and by the time I stored it in November, you couldn't tell that I had any 'problems' hidden under my moldings. :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's great but this is only on the one door. It's due to them blending paint over the molding, not just the typical fading.
 

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That's great but this is only on the one door. It's due to them blending paint over the molding, not just the typical fading.
Yeah, I understand that but Junkman was saying that the fading issue and its 'cure' was not feasible...

I saw from the first pics you posted that it wasn't like mine or others that I have seen. :bigthumb:

Hope it gets worked out for a good price if not for free!:beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, I understand that but Junkman was saying that the fading issue and its 'cure' was not feasible...

I saw from the first pics you posted that it wasn't like mine or others that I have seen. :bigthumb:

Hope it gets worked out for a good price if not for free!:beerchug:
Thanks, I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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then why did mine as well as many others fade to match through time? when the paint first sees the sun it will only fade to a certain point. that is why when you remove molding that hasnt seen sun eventually fades to match the rest of the vehicle. the clay and waxing actually does help, it reduces all the build up of grime and crap from where the edge of the molding was. making a smooth surface to match the rest of the car.
I think the apparent discoloration after removing factory moldings, emblems and graphics is one of residual solvent in the paint rather than sun fading.

I have removed emblems and decals and seen the slight raised impression of where they were and seen it shrink back over time and the color change to match the exposed surrounding area.

Adhesives contain long lasting solvents (which is why the glue remains sticky) and those solvents leach into the paint and slightly soften and swell it. Once the molding is removed, the solvents can evaporate and the paint changes color as it fully dries (as everyone knows, paint changes color as it dries).
 
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