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I bought my brand new Charger R/T last month and I noticed the dealer neglected to do some things that should have been done before the car was sold. They didn't take the yellow splitter protectors (I know this is common) and they also left the tire pressure at 40PSI instead of adjusting it to 32 as indicated on the door label.

The car now has 550 miles on it and it has developed a vibration above 55 or so mph. It can be felt in the steering wheel and in the cabin in general - my son was riding with me and noticed it very clearly. If I put the shifter into Neutral while it's happening it doesn't change, so it most likely isn't engine related.

Putting two and two together, I am wondering if the dealer might have neglected something, like perhaps torquing the lug nuts properly, that would lead to this. Does anyone have a list of items the dealership should do, and/or common things dealerships have done to mess things up?

I have an appointment with a different Dodge dealership on Monday to look at it, I already plan to ask them to look at the wheel balance and torque, just want to know if there are other common items I should mention.

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I bought my brand new Charger R/T last month and I noticed the dealer neglected to do some things that should have been done before the car was sold. They didn't take the yellow splitter protectors (I know this is common) and they also left the tire pressure at 40PSI instead of adjusting it to 32 as indicated on the door label.

The car now has 550 miles on it and it has developed a vibration above 55 or so mph. It can be felt in the steering wheel and in the cabin in general - my son was riding with me and noticed it very clearly. If I put the shifter into Neutral while it's happening it doesn't change, so it most likely isn't engine related.

Putting two and two together, I am wondering if the dealer might have neglected something, like perhaps torquing the lug nuts properly, that would lead to this. Does anyone have a list of items the dealership should do, and/or common things dealerships have done to mess things up?

I have an appointment with a different Dodge dealership on Monday to look at it, I already plan to ask them to look at the wheel balance and torque, just want to know if there are other common items I should mention.
Does it do this all the time or just when you first start driving it, I mean, does it go away after you've driven it for a few miles? The factory tires "flat spot" horribly when parked but usually smooth out after a bit.

If it doesn't smooth out, take it to have the tires balanced. You have one or more out. Might have thrown a weight or something, it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does it do this all the time or just when you first start driving it, I mean, does it go away after you've driven it for a few miles? The factory tires "flat spot" horribly when parked but usually smooth out after a bit.
It doesn't go away. My previous car had the flat spot issue as well, but this isn't that unfortunately.

If it doesn't smooth out, take it to have the tires balanced. You have one or more out. Might have thrown a weight or something, it happens.
Thanks, I'm hoping it is that simple.
 

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It doesn't go away. My previous car had the flat spot issue as well, but this isn't that unfortunately.



Thanks, I'm hoping it is that simple.
Most likely that's the issue. The dealer doesn't remove the wheels for PDI, so unless you had them do something, they wouldn't have removed them for anything. The factory install is computerized so they're torqued correctly from there.
 

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Dealer PDI is always spotty... did you have the bright brake and gas pedals installed or are those in a box in your trunk? I bought my 2019 used in 2020 and it still had them in the box in trunk!

I think they actually ship with more than 40psi so they probably did adjust that just poorly! I hope you can get this resolved with a wheel balance.
 

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I would also inspect the tires for signs of defects or damage like a bubble on the sidewall on the inboard surface.
 
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Good luck but I would strongly advise against putting the car in neutral at any speed especially freeway speeds and do not tell the dealer you did this.

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My tires were at 47PSI when I got the car home.
Mine was well over 40psi too, the pedal covers in the trunk, etc etc. And that was from a dealership that was otherwise pretty responsive.

As for the original poster's problem, I doubt the issue is related to anything the delivering dealership did (or failed to do). You've already gotten some good suggestions on what to check.

Best,
 

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They're shipped from the factory with that much air in the tires to TRY and eliminate damages loading and unloading from the train cars and trucks. That's actually one of the things the dealer IS supposed to do, let some air out instead of just popping "N²" valve caps on it and attempting to charge us for it.

I picked up my Durango the day it came off the truck and told them I don't want nitrogen and I'm not paying for it. I was told, "Oh, they already put it in there, but we won't charge you for it."

Yeah right.
 

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They're shipped from the factory with that much air in the tires to TRY and eliminate damages loading and unloading from the train cars and trucks. That's actually one of the things the dealer IS supposed to do, let some air out instead of just popping "N²" valve caps on it and attempting to charge us for it.

I picked up my Durango the day it came off the truck and told them I don't want nitrogen and I'm not paying for it. I was told, "Oh, they already put it in there, but we won't charge you for it."

Yeah right.
I have very particular requirements for my tire fill. It needs to be exactly 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, .9% argon, and about .04% Co2. That has worked well for me over the years. I can ship some out in a tank for anyone that needs any for a fee. I call it Quantum Fuscia. Coming to a dive shop near you soon.

Best,
 

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I have very particular requirements for my tire fill. It needs to be exactly 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, .9% argon, and about .04% Co2. That has worked well for me over the years. I can ship some out in a tank for anyone that needs any for a fee. I call it Quantum Fuscia. Coming to a dive shop near you soon.

Best,
Big pet peeve of mine too the Nitrogen thing.... I hate the green caps even... put new tires on my wife's car at Costco and they were the first thing to go!
 

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He’s just pointing out that air is mostly nitrogen and as the oxygen component leaks out, which increases the percentage of nitrogen of the air that is left in the tire.
Even when you add more air the mixture will have a higher nitrogen percentage than it did the previous time the tire was filled with air.
Ummmm, I hate to break it to y'all....nitrogen still escapes from tires. Not as fast, but it still escapes.
 

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Ummmm, I hate to break it to y'all....nitrogen still escapes from tires. Not as fast, but it still escapes.
It (pure nitrogen purge and fill) amounts to a little over a pound of pressure per year difference.

The drop due to temperature changing from summer to winter is much greater!

I check the pressure in new tires about once a week, dropping off to about once a month as the pressure drop slows.

But when the temperature drops, I check more often. And when spring brings warmer temperatures, I rarely need to add air.

As to the claims of moisture rotting the tires from the inside, I call BS. But I live where summer humidity is 90%. On the outside of the tire. A tire which has at best a 6 year life.

tl;dr: Check new tires more often (even weekly) as about 1/3 of the air leaks out faster than nitrogen. Proper tire pressure extends tire life, maximizes fuel economy, and provides the best traction. Top off air soon (even that day) when the temperature noticeably drops. Otherwise, check every month until you wear out the tread or the sidewalls show cracking.
 

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It (pure nitrogen purge and fill) amounts to a little over a pound of pressure per year difference.

The drop due to temperature changing from summer to winter is much greater!

I check the pressure in new tires about once a week, dropping off to about once a month as the pressure drop slows.

But when the temperature drops, I check more often. And when spring brings warmer temperatures, I rarely need to add air.

As to the claims of moisture rotting the tires from the inside, I call BS. But I live where summer humidity is 90%. On the outside of the tire. A tire which has at best a 6 year life.

tl;dr: Check new tires more often (even weekly) as about 1/3 of the air leaks out faster than nitrogen. Proper tire pressure extends tire life, maximizes fuel economy, and provides the best traction. Top off air soon (even that day) when the temperature noticeably drops. Otherwise, check every month until you wear out the tread or the sidewalls show cracking.
You said a LOT that had absolutely nothing to do with the OP's problem or my sidetrack comment about not paying a dealer $200 for nitrogen, when I know damn good and well they didn't purge and refil, they just slapped green caps on it.
 

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You said a LOT that had absolutely nothing to do with the OP's problem or my sidetrack comment about not paying a dealer $200 for nitrogen, when I know damn good and well they didn't purge and refil, they just slapped green caps on it.
True.

For the OP, spin balance the tires. Check the sidewalls for swelling/bulging. After a test drive.

And for you, some nice valve stem caps look cool. My lady got me some and I like them. The green caps do look dumb.
 

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Ummmm, I hate to break it to y'all....nitrogen still escapes from tires. Not as fast, but it still escapes.
I never said it didn’t. Just simpler to explain if it didn’t. Even if it leaks at a slower rate than oxygen, you’d still have the same effect.

but it seems like we all agree that paying stupid fees for nitrogen inflated tires is stupid
 
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