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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After 2 1/2 LOOOOOONG years, this product is officially FINISHED! The price is $1,695 + $295 for the tubs upgrade and we are taking orders. Any questions?




http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/dankoreproductions/Rear%20Wide%20Body/WidebodyHardware2copy.jpg[/IMG]




 

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Wow. I can't believe it. Fantastic job.
 

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Nice work! I like it. :bigthumb:
 

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Mo, looks awesome!!!! Now that it's done.......you know. Is it to be next?
 

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You didn't just go there....:no: lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
OK so lets get started on the install. First we have to get the fuel situation taken care of before we install the fiberglass panels. My car had very little gas in it so I got no spillage but I'm not sure what would happen if it was full, you may want to avoid filling the car up before surgery. The first step is to remove the metal pipe from the fuel tank to the gas cap. It is easily accesible just beneath the plastic inner fender liner. Just undo the hose clamps and retaining screws and it pops right off. The vent line also has to come off and it has a connection that un-snaps. In the first pic you see where to cut the main pipe 2" north of the bracket. To keep little bits of metal from getting in your fuel line, I made a little thingy with some wire and a metal nut, wrapped it with a paper towel and shoved it into the line below where I was gonna cut, then cut it with an air powered hack saw (wire and all) and then pulled the wire out to clean the debri from the inside of the pipe. The other side is cut about 1-1/2" south of the weld as seen in the pictures.







Now besides the hole I had to cut into the quarter panel with a 4" hole saw to make space for the Lid assembly, I also had to cut a relief hole in the metal quarter panel where the round fuel hole is. this is because our fuel cap is relocated upwards and we need more space to clear the vent line. 2 slices with an air powered hack saw does it, then just push the metal in out of the way.
 

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Wow, Mo! Very Nice! :bigthumb:
It really came together nice after all that time & effort. It's great to see all your features together on one car! Congrats! :banana:

I've been keeping an eye on that now and then, ever since I got your 3-pc. spoiler on my Charger. ;) It always got compliments!
 

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Yeah at least a roll of duct tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
We custom modify each Fuel Door assembly at the factory by grinding the locking tabs and sanding the gelcoat completely off the inside beveled edge to make the fuel cap snap in properly. When priming and painting the car, be carefull NOT to build up the beveled seat area, as then, the cap may not snap back into place when assembling the car!



In order to install the fuel hoses, you need to temporarily install the fuel cap assembly. Once the assembely is seated in the hole, flip it over and take a flat end screw driver to push the 4 locking tabs outward.


 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
how does the bumper look in comparison to the wide body

does it flow well with the rest of the wide body or look puny
No it flows perfectly!!!

Lets now get back to the Fuel hoses install. Once you're done with that step, insert your factory Charger fuel pipe, rubber gasket and all into the Fuel door assembly. It slides in and fits like a glove just like OEM!! Now you can hang the wide body panel in place with a few screws. Make sure to put the Cap in place and close the door so it is in the exact right place when installing the hoses.



The hoses should already be cut in the correct length so it's pretty easy to assemble. In order for the hoses not to interfere with the plastic inner wheel liners, you need to stick the big hose under the metal shock tower lip and use a couple of straps to keep it in place. The factory brackets and vent hose connections are used.





This is what it should look like when it's all done!! Now we are Old School all the way! pretty cool huh?
Now if you want to remove it before painting the car, this is how it's done: First unhook the hoses/clamps, then you need a pretty long flat screw driver to reach up inside from underneath. Depress each of the four tabs while twisting on the housing and the assembly should pop right out. It's a little hard to see and reach as you can see from the last pic, but it's definitely doable, just get someone to hold a light for you while laying on the brakes/roter assembley (ouch!). Remember not to get too much build up of paint in the seat when painting the car! That's all for now, stay tuned for more updates!

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Very nice , but how do u open the rear doors?
Next time you enter your car, reach in and you will see how easy it is to open from the front . If you haul your kids to school everyday and you don't like that situation, just get some remote door solenoids. I'm sure I could custom install the rear handels into the widebody but IMO they are ugly and take away from the muscle car look which I am going after.
 
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