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Discussion Starter #1
15’ Road n Track. Bc racing coil overs, replaced front pads, rotors, hardware, anti seize, etc. 245 20s in front, 275 20s in rear. Stock pads and rotors in back. Everything about the brakes work amazing in reverse, with no squeaks (the brand new front pads and rotors squeak like nuts while using the brakes in forward motion) and no clunking. But when the car is in drive, and you’re at a stop/sign, when you release the brakes to go, there is a clunking/popping sound coming from the front somewhere. Doesn’t feel close enough to be the booster. Feels engine bay ish. Coil overs professionally installed. Brakes professionally installed. All around. Brake fluid is good. Tested yesterday. No trouble codes. Also the brakes feel mushy, even tho they stop the car good? LMK, don’t wanna take it to dodge for them to say, “it’s maybe something” and buy all this stuff and it not fix anything.
Clunked before and after I replaced the front pads and rotors
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P.s feels like these new pads are slipping sometimes? (Unless I didn’t break them in right, but I did the 30/30/30 method like dodge does so idk) Had no slipping before on stock front rotors and pads. Or squeaking in both forward or reverse. The clink/clunk was still there tho. Lmk hella thanks
 

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Did you clean the rotor with brake clean prior to installation? Lots of brands have a coating on them that prevents rust in the box. That needs to be cleaned so you don't contaminate the pads.
Just a wild guess btw.
Is it a pop or a quick pop pop when you release the brakes?
Maybe a brake bleed is in order, thats usually a mushy pedal fix.
When doing the brakes, you did not let the caliper dangle by the brake line?
I assume no noise while driving correct.
 

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You say they were professionally installed, why not take it back to whoever did the work, explain what's going on and see what they say?

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
By pro installed I mean I did the brakes at our shop, the rotors were cleaned on both sides before hand. Brake quiet doesn’t do anything it’s a scam. Anti seize is where it needs to go. The coil overs were installed by the team that built this car. Somewhere in Phoenix, I bought it already built. But I read somewhere that the coil over could be popping because the hard - soft setting was too low. Because going over a man hole cover, that’s pushed into the road a couple inches, while doing 40 doesn’t make anything make any noise. Pads were bed in as correctly as human beings are able to do it. Also why wouldn’t the brakes squeak in reverse? If it was getting caught up or the shims grinding, I would hear it in reverse as well. Unless I just need to go another 500 miles. I’ve put 2k on em already?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you clean the rotor with brake clean prior to installation? Lots of brands have a coating on them that prevents rust in the box. That needs to be cleaned so you don't contaminate the pads.
Just a wild guess btw.
Is it a pop or a quick pop pop when you release the brakes?
Maybe a brake bleed is in order, thats usually a mushy pedal fix.
When doing the brakes, you did not let the caliper dangle by the brake line?
I assume no noise while driving correct.
brake fluid is fine, but the pedal feels better on my foot (more secure feeling) in reverse than it does in forward. It only pops in drive while holding the brakes already then getting ready to go. Brake booster shouldn’t need adjusted for new pads and rotors right? Haven’t seen anybody replace their brake booster with their rotors and pads
 

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Discussion Starter #7
brake fluid is fine, but the pedal feels better on my foot (more secure feeling) in reverse than it does in forward. It only pops in drive while holding the brakes already then getting ready to go. Brake booster shouldn’t need adjusted for new pads and rotors right? Haven’t seen anybody replace their brake booster with their rotors and pads
And no on letting the caliper hang, we had caliper hooks/hangers
 

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The clunks are pesky to track down and can be the sway bar bushings, the upper control arm bushings, the lower ball joint, but very likely it is the tension strut (the front bushing tears- mine clunked just like you describe)
 

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Not sure, I was trying to help with the noise. The drag in reverse may not cause the same vibration. But you may have other issues than simple pad to caliper/piston noise.

As for the run of the mill brake noise and the permatex compound. Its a high tack adhesive that can withstand high temps of braking systems that never really dries or hardens.
I said since the 80's but thinking back it was the 70's when we first started using it. My younger brother put me onto it. They just started using shims back then and they didn't do so good. My brother to this day pops them off and applies permatex disc brake quiet spray, lets them tack up for 20-30 minutes and installs them.
I decided to try it onto the shims still do. Call it luck or the compound but we have been noise free since.

Now this has been our formula for 30+ years. And I'll tip you off a little what we learned.
At first we sprayed way too much all over the back of the pads. This made handling the pads when installing them into the calipers a messy task.

Now days folks showcase their calipers and this stuff is unattractive after a while if you can see it. So now I mask off parts I handle and are not needed to be coated and can be seen.
Shown below demos how little needs to be applied, and how I hide the compound from the public.

The top pic are my Silverado pads.
The next two are my R/T BR9 brakes, all have been treated.
Good luck with your issue.

291118


291119


291120
 

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Just thought of something, Did you do the coil over at the same time? If so, the bolts and nuts are not to be tightned to torque until the car has full weight on the suspension.
If they were tightned at full droop, you have put a "preload" into the suspension ans that could be the clunk your getting.
 
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