Charger Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have a 2013 dodge charger se 3.6 so the other day I was pushing it and it reached about 4,000 rpm and then the check engine hit and the rpm’s shot down on their own I’m kind of concerned about it if any of you guys have info I’d appreciate it thank you!!!
 

· Premium Member
2019 Dodge Charger SXT; Triple Nickel
Joined
·
2,723 Posts
Definitely, one of the others will chime in soon, hopefully.
But 4,000 RPM really isn’t much of a push, that’s pretty much merging onto a highway.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,124 Posts
The dreaded P06DD fault. You have reason to be concerned. Did you get a oil light too? What does your on board oil pressure gauge read? There are a couple things it could be.

The oil pressure sensor located on the oil cooler housing under the intake manifold could be bad (or the connector). The sensor is inexpensive but you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it which is a chore. Check for a P0520 code. That code is related to the oil pressure sensor/switch circuitry.

These 3.6 engines have a 2 stage oil pump. When the engine is cold the oil pump operates at stage 2 high pressure before shifting to stage 1 low pressure. And when the engine hits 3500 rpm the control solenoid commands stage 2 high pressure. And you are describing a problem you notice in the rpm range that stage 2 should operate.

When the oil pressure sensor or circuit on the oil cooler housing fails I believe the pump defaults to stage 2 high pressure. However, if the control solenoid on the pump fails it will typically fail to stage 1 low pressure and soethimes put you in limp mode. The control solenoid cannot be replaced without removing the oil pump. If the solenoid is suspect replace the complete pump assembly. And the oil pump in the 3.6 has been known to fail too which is the P06DD code you listed.

Did the builder install a new oil pump when the engine was rebuilt. I would make return visit to your builder who should have warranted their work. Have them diagnose the problem before digging into it yourself..
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The dreaded P06DD fault. You have reason to be concerned. Did you get a oil light too? What does your on board oil pressure gauge read? There are a couple things it could be. The oil pressure sensor located on the oil cooler housing under the intake manifold could be bad (or the connector). The sensor is inexpensive but you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it which is a chore. Check for a P0520 code. That code is related to the oil pressure sensor/switch circuitry. These 3.6 engines have a 2 stage oil pump. When the engine is cold the oil pump operates at stage 2 high pressure before shifting to stage 1 low pressure. And when the engine hits 3500 rpm the control solenoid commands stage 2 high pressure. And you are describing a problem you notice in the rpm range that stage 2 should operate. When the oil pressure sensor or circuit on the oil cooler housing fails I believe the pump defaults to stage 2 high pressure. However, if the control solenoid on the pump fails it will typically fail to stage 1 low pressure and soethimes put you in limp mode. The control solenoid cannot be replaced without removing the oil pump. If the solenoid is suspect replace the complete pump assembly. And the oil pump in the 3.6 has been known to fail too which is the P06DD code you listed. Did the builder install a new oil pump when the engine was rebuilt. I would make return visit to your builder who should have warranted their work. Have them diagnose the problem before digging into it yourself..
Okay so I was checking around the engine and it appears to be spitting oil through where the sensor and the filter go but it’s not coming from the filter and the only code it gives is the P06DD so today I’m going to change the sensor I already took the filter off to see it but everything appears to be fine apart from the oil in the vicinity
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,124 Posts
I would buy a o-ring set for the cooler assembly and remove and inspect the complete cooler/filter housing for cracks. If the oil filter housing was over tightened when the new oil filter was installed during the rebuild it can crack the plastic filter housing.

And do not reuse the intake manifold gaskets.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,124 Posts
I forgot to mention that the oil filter housing was redesigned in 2014. If you need to replace it, upgrade.
 
  • Like
Reactions: N8ECH
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top