Charger Forums banner


984 Views 32 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  sleeperhemi06
2007 dodge charger RT, V8 5.7L, Police interceptor package. 133k miles on dash, but just did a engine swap, and has 78k miles on it.

So, before you all ask, yes i changed the alternator, and yes i changed the battery, and yes the battery cables are grounded correctly. It’s weird because when the car is on, and jumped, it stays on, but after 10-20seconds the lights on the dash start going DIM and all the lights just start flickering and going crazy. If i can upload a problem of what’s happening i would. Let me know how to do that, and if anyone knows anything? I did check the rear fuses and some are bent, but which fuses in the rear compartment near battery actually matter, and can show you show me a picture or diagram of which one’s actually matter. Thanks in advance.
1 - 9 of 33 Posts
You need to put a voltmeter on the battery while it's running to make sure the charging system is functioning because it sounds like it is not.
I wonder if this could be the issue with my car? Well I guess not since it won’t even start with a jump
Does your car crank with a jump ?
If you jump it and it doesn’t crank your battery is part of the problem
It’ll turn over but no crank not with a jump either
Turn over manually?
Starter doesn’t crank motor over ?
Or Cranks and doesn’t start ?
Cranks And doesn’t start soery
Give a shot of starting fluid
If it fires it’s fuel problem
If it doesn’t it’s electrical
Will give you a place to start
If you have a code reader see if you have any codes
Did all of that it’s not fuel related I can’t remember the codes it had right now
I had a similar issue, and I saw your note on top but it sounds like text book bad alternator. Start by bench testing the alternator at a parts store, or grab a voltmeter and check the battery and alternator voltage. It sounds like your battery will take a jump but the alternator is not charging the system after it starts. If the alternator is not working the voltage will drain causing the dim lights and error codes that your components are failing. I did a visual on my alternator and found the positive cable was melted to the terminal. Once I got the cable cleaned off and changed the alternator, it started and ran fine. This was not on my Charger but on my 2016 Ram 1500 eco. Hope this helps. Apologies if this is not the fix.
The car doesn’t start even with a jump to the battery you still think that’s the correct process to try? Just curious before I do it
I assume you have checked all the fuses in the front and rear fuse boxes.
Since the engine cranks over it appears the starter relay and starter motor/solenoid are working.

Ignition switch On:
When the ignition button is in the Run position, and the engine is not running (zero rpm), the Auto Shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays de-energize after approximately 1 second. At this time, battery voltage is not supplied to the fuel pump, ignition coil, fuel injectors or oxygen sensors.

Engine Start-up Mode:
If the PCM receives the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor signals, it energizes the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay. If the PCM does not receive both signals (Crankshaft/Camshaft) within approximately one second, it will not energize the ASD relay and fuel pump relay. The ASD and fuel pump relays supply battery voltage to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil, EGR solenoid and oxygen sensors.

You said it's not a fuel problem so maybe it's the ASD relay.
Still don't remember any of the codes?
No I don’t remember any still the battery is out of the car because I think I got a bad one when I replaced it so I can’t read them. I want to say there was only one code for TPS sensor which I’ve replaced the whole pedal assembly for that. How do I check the fuses without taking each one out individually and holding it up to see if it’s blown?
You can use an automotive logic probe (test light) to test the fuse without removing the fuse.
View attachment 311972
View attachment 311973
The 2 holes on each fuse are for testing the power in and the power out.
If only 1 of the holes lights up the test light, remove the fuse and check it (visually or with a digital multimeter)

Fuse Box Diagram Dodge Charger (2011-2019)
Oh ok where can I get one those any parts store? Or harbor freight?
You might have damaged a cell in the battery.

side note, my sons car was doing similar and it turned out his PCM had an internal short that was killing the battery. Cost me $2100 total to replace the PCM, program it and the radio plus another new battery to replace the new one that got trashed by the shorted PCM
Interesting.. how’d you figure out it was the PCM? I’ve always had that in the back of my mind with my car. If the PCM shit the bed but I know it’s unlikely. My car doesn’t start it turns but won’t start new battery in it that’s probably dead now from sitting but even with a jump it won’t start.
Shop couldn't communicate with it at all. I had it towed to Dodge and they tried to communicate to it and could not. They diagnosed finally a bad PCM
Mine is at the shop right now waiting to get looked at. It ended up being 2100 for all of that? Sheesh I hope that’s not my case lol
1 - 9 of 33 Posts