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07 Dodge Charger 3.5 HO SXT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, new to forum but I’ve learned a lot from this site already and need help please... I have a 2007 Dodge Charger 3.5 HO RWD, recently bought the car and am having problem after problem.
So yesterday I made it about a half a block down the street and it made a strange electrical sound then just stalled out and lost power. Now it will not Start!? It cranks like it wants ta turn over but doesn’t! So I had it towed and checked and after new crank sensor and bill still no start. So towed it back home, mechanic said maybe spark plugs so I replaced all of those today and still no start!? Also a couple weeks ago I had fuel pump replaced after really bad gas leak. Did run it for codes today and got U1412 ?? No idea about that one. After first week of purchase check engine came on and read 02 senors/cat because of visible exhaust leak in pipe, was gonna replace cat this spring but now i don’t know?
I also tried starter relay swap and nope. Now my battery is low from trying ta figure it out which I got tested today, had also tried neighbors battery and still no start? I only have one key as well.. plus the PNRD light has been wonky for a wail either it’s there or it’s faded or it’s totally gone?

Not sure what ta Do or try Next???
Please any help or recommendations are greatly appreciated
 

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My 2001 Chrylser 300M had the same basic 3.5 V-6 in it as your Charger, and I had three cam sensors go bad before I the first crank sensor went out- I drove it over 300,000 miles until the transmission started acting up and the repair cost was more than the car was worth. I learned to keep a spare Cam sensor in the glove box so I wouldn't get stranded (the aftermarket sensors don't work well or last very long !)

If the cam sensor comes with a piece of paper / cardboard on the end... LEAVE IT THERE...its used to set the proper gap between the sensor and tone wheel. It will flake off in the first 30 seconds of the engine running. Some of the newer ones don't have it (redesign I suppose)
 

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07 Dodge Charger 3.5 HO SXT
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So bought a new battery and cam sensor today and no luck still! Called mechanic that looked at it a couple days ago and he thinks it jumped time?
Not sure what ta do or try next???
Any other thoughts would help a bunch.. thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also found these codes I brushed off as an exhaust leak about a month ago:

PO153 O2 circuit slow response Bank2 Sensor1

&

PO430 catalysts system efficiency below threshold Bank2


Could it be my cat is clogged and causing it not ta start!???


Please any insight or help would be great right now...
 

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If the cat was clogged it should still crank cold, just wouldn't stay running when it's hot.

Sounds like a timing issue, either the belt has jumped or broken completely

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I could see the belt still when I changed the sensor, don’t think it broke plus I was barely going 20mph and only drove like half a block when it stalled.

Still not sure what ta do Next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Might drop the cat in question tomorrow and try ta start it, if that doesn’t do check belt points I guess idk?

Still appreciate any other thoughts or ideas ?
 

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Sounds much more like a timing belt issue than a converter...the belts are good for 7 years/100,000 miles and believe me they are pretty thrashed by then. You should pull the front cover off so you can see most of the belt and then check the timing marks. If it is off a tooth or two it will run (like crap) any more than that and it won't start /run and may have bent some of the valves. If the timing is off you will have to do a compression check to test for bent valves..if bent, then it is going to get very expensive very fast....

Watch "Motor City Mechanic" Dave Pike showing how to change the belt/set the timing (there are five parts, link is only to the first):

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I seen his videos and have been studying all week. Wish I would have known about compression b4 I changed the plugs already.

Also it’s a 2007 that just recently hit 170,000 miles but it’s super clean like previous owner took really nice care of it inside and out, but it didn’t come with any service records..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is it possible ta remove top of cam without draining the radiator? It also said the 02/Cat codes have been there for a predetermined period of time? Plus car seemed ta smoke a bit more then normal with some sulfur smell? Just really trying ta narrow this thing down, thanks for the reply’s and any further help
 

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Is it possible ta remove top of cam without draining the radiator? It also said the 02/Cat codes have been there for a predetermined period of time? Plus car seemed ta smoke a bit more then normal with some sulfur smell? Just really trying ta narrow this thing down, thanks for the reply’s and any further help
That smell was/is a bad cat, but that isn't what's keeping it from starting up. That will need to be addressed after you get it running again.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Is it possible ta remove top of cam without draining the radiator? It also said the 02/Cat codes have been there for a predetermined period of time? Plus car seemed ta smoke a bit more then normal with some sulfur smell? Just really trying ta narrow this thing down, thanks for the reply’s and any further help
You should be able to remove the aluminum housing cover without draining the radiator. You do need to drain / remove the radiator to get the dampener pulley off though.
 

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Bent Valves!
Did the belt break or slip too many teeth? New valves are not too expensive, just buy the ones you need and be sure to LAP them to the seat. This will be much cheaper than a set of rebuilt heads: Rock Auto show a single rebuilt head at $355 plus $125 core ($480 each).

However, an exhaust valve goes for $5 to $15 each, Intake vales $4 to $9 each. Add in a gasket set (ranges from $150 to $300 !!!) and two sets of head bolts for $20 each (one set does one head) and a GATES timing belt/water pump kit for $150. (basically, you can fix the whole thing for the price of one rebuilt head)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So the water pump had leaked some chunky antifreeze from the cylinder and clogged up the lower crank teeth, belt looked fine and top cams where still in sync and both six teeth off! After Dead Center, probably never been open b4 b/c it was Not easy ta remove balancer pulley even with tool plus dirt build up inside.

Had a subie engine pro help me today and he said he could feel it when cranking the rotations, like it was locking up?? Still don’t wanna believe it after only having this thing for 6 weeks ugh!

And that was far as it went today. Thought we where gonna reset time and try it again plus check compression but he said there won’t be any and seemed pretty sure.

So I guess I’ll take his word cause I’m just a tackle box mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How do I reset the the timing marks after it has jumped?

Should the crank or cams be lined up first?
 

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So the water pump had leaked some chunky antifreeze from the cylinder and clogged up the lower crank teeth, belt looked fine and top cams where still in sync and both six teeth off! After Dead Center, probably never been open b4 b/c it was Not easy ta remove balancer pulley even with tool plus dirt build up inside.

Had a subie engine pro help me today and he said he could feel it when cranking the rotations, like it was locking up?? Still don’t wanna believe it after only having this thing for 6 weeks ugh!

And that was far as it went today. Thought we where gonna reset time and try it again plus check compression but he said there won’t be any and seemed pretty sure.

So I guess I’ll take his word cause I’m just a tackle box mechanic
Dealerships charge $1200 to $1500 to change the belt/water pump, Mom & Pop shops charge about $1000...When people find out how much it costs, they sell / trade them in rather than fix them. The next owner gets stuck with a very expensive bill, and usually not very long after they purchase it. (Unfortunately this is very common).

It sounds like you friend is sure you have bent valves (no compression), so it still won't run after you change the belt.
 
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