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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 Charger 3.5SE Auto

Left this morning to go to the gym (20 degrees in boston) and when i was driving the car was almost chugging and not accelerating right. I looked down and the red bolt in parentheses was flashing and the traction control light was on (no snow). Like an idiot i figured it was cold or i just didnt let it heat up enough and just went to the gym. When i got out the car wouldnt start. The key turns all the way but there is zero sound. No clicking, no chug, nothing. The weird part to me is all of the interior is working including lights, blinkers, sound, etc... I looked up some forums and saw the starter relay might be the issue, but i just replaced it and nothing has changed.

Yes, I tried jumping it and got the same exact thing.

Thank you for any help!
 

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2008 Charger 3.5SE Auto

Left this morning to go to the gym (20 degrees in boston) and when i was driving the car was almost chugging and not accelerating right. I looked down and the red bolt in parentheses was flashing and the traction control light was on (no snow). Like an idiot i figured it was cold or i just didnt let it heat up enough and just went to the gym. When i got out the car wouldnt start. The key turns all the way but there is zero sound. No clicking, no chug, nothing. The weird part to me is all of the interior is working including lights, blinkers, sound, etc... I looked up some forums and saw the starter relay might be the issue, but i just replaced it and nothing has changed.

Yes, I tried jumping it and got the same exact thing.

Thank you for any help!
I would start by checking the starting circuit to see if there's power at the solenoid. Might also want to check and see if you have any voltage drops to ground and power. Not sure on the charging light or the traction control light. Possibly fixing the starting circuit might help narrow it down if there are any common power feeds. Happy troubleshooting!
 

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Did you get the main battery load tested? A bad battery can have enough power to power the low current devices (interior lights, etc ... @20 amps) but not have enough power to power the high current devices (like the starter feed circuit @ 300+ amps).
.
 

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My wife used to have a MU TAN (the S & G fell off) that did this every year..bad battery every time..(btw, that dog is long gone--too many problems with the electric system-- she drives a 2013 Chrysler 200 V6 limited
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you get the main battery load tested? A bad battery can have enough power to power the low current devices (interior lights, etc ... @20 amps) but not have enough power to power the high current devices (like the starter feed circuit @ 300+ amps).
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Sorry, Updating now...

Dead solenoid. Replaced starter and havnt had an issue with the actual starting of the car, but the two lights keep coming on and then the car will stall out. I pulled the p codes and its going to the throttle actuator. The person I bought the car off of replaced intake with after market, so that could be the problem as well. If everything looks good on the intake ill swap the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2008 Charger 3.5SE Auto

Left this morning to go to the gym (20 degrees in boston) and when i was driving the car was almost chugging and not accelerating right. I looked down and the red bolt in parentheses was flashing and the traction control light was on (no snow). Like an idiot i figured it was cold or i just didnt let it heat up enough and just went to the gym. When i got out the car wouldnt start. The key turns all the way but there is zero sound. No clicking, no chug, nothing. The weird part to me is all of the interior is working including lights, blinkers, sound, etc... I looked up some forums and saw the starter relay might be the issue, but i just replaced it and nothing has changed.

Yes, I tried jumping it and got the same exact thing.

Thank you for any help!
Sorry, Updating now...

Dead solenoid. Replaced starter and havnt had an issue with the actual starting of the car, but the two lights keep coming on and then the car will stall out. I pulled the p codes and its going to the throttle actuator. The person I bought the car off of replaced intake with after market, so that could be the problem as well. If everything looks good on the intake ill swap the actuator.
 
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