[ryan_sheets]

Thought it’d be fair to make a post see if I can get some help here. I drove my 2014 Dodge Charger to work like I always do. It sat for 8-9 hours in the parking lot and I came out and the battery was dead. I’ve never had battery problems before so this is my first time running into this.
I cannot pop the trunk because it’s electrical of course. I cannot crawl through the trunk to get to the E handle because I have custom built subwoofers that take up most of the back.
I attempted to charge the car from the hood in order to pop the trunk or get some electrical stuff working (I have read that the hood fuse jumping system isn’t the best for jumping the engine).
I have a few lights on the havoc controls that will come on when a door opens.
Any advice? Will I have to drill threw this sub box to get to the battery...

 

[ktmtigger]

You should be able to jump it from under the hood without any problem well i guess if the battery decided to finally crap out it might be tough. Hook it up under hood and let it sit and charge for a bit then try the trunk release

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[N8ECH]

As KMT says, just hook a charger to the underhood terminals, and let it charge for a good while. You will eventually be able to open the trunk, or possibly start it if the battery is any good. I would have it load tested once you get to it, and replace it if it comes back less than 100%. The battery in my '14 gave up the ghost a month back, so in went a new one.

Don

 

[ryan_sheets]

I have 12.2 V when tested. Main fuses I should look out for?

 

[N8ECH]

Clarify please. You are saying that the battery reads 12.2 volts. Have you tried to start it? If so what happens?

Don

 

[ryan_sheets]

It won’t start, none of the electronics work including door locks, windows. It’s like the whole car crapped out but I still get 12.2 V. Any advice on main fuses?

 

[N8ECH]

If you have any sort of clicking/idiot lights/electrical activity at all, your fuses are likely ok. If the battery in question has shorted, or has one or more bad cells, it can act just like this.
I would remove the battery, and have it properly load tested an auto parts place.

Until you know for sure the battery is good, you are chasing ghosts.

Don

 

[ryan_sheets]

No click, no electricity at all. I cannot get into the trunk to get the battery for a load test. Regardless shouldn’t I at least be able to pop the trunk with 12V? Trying to prevent cutting through my sub box

-Thanks

 

[ONEZ ST]

You can get into the trunk. You already said how in your first post.

 

[Slidd]

You need to charge it. At 12.2V your battery is 50% discharged.


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[Joebiker]

Can’t you drop the rear seats and pull the emergency release in the trunk?

 

[Slidd]

I attempted to charge the car from the hood in order to pop the trunk or get some electrical stuff working (I have read that the hood fuse jumping system isn’t the best for jumping the engine).

What do you mean hood fuse?

Under the hood is the way you are supposed to jump it.




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[ryan_sheets]

You can get into the trunk. You already said how in your first post.

Point is to not cut through the subs 👍

You need to charge it. At 12.2V your battery is 50% discharged.


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Still shouldn’t I have enough to pop my trunk?

 

[Slidd]

Point is to not cut through the subs


Still shouldn’t I have enough to pop my trunk?

Yes seems like it should.

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[ONEZ ST]

I don't know about everyone else but if the rear seat entry and jump method don't work call a lock smith and see if they have a way to Jimmy the trunk.

Do these cars accept a battery jump through a 12v power port or does that screw up the electronics

 

[ktmtigger]

I'm leaning towards the fcm being fried along with a crap battery

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[ryan_sheets]

UPDATE. Battery fully charged. Car no response. Not a battery problem.

 

[ryan_sheets]

I'm leaning towards the fcm being fried along with a crap battery

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I apologize in advance, what is a FCM

 

[ryan_sheets]

I only have break lights. That’s it

 

[CtCarl]

UPDATE. Battery fully charged. Car no response. Not a battery problem.

Until you've load-tested the battery, I don't think you can rule it out as the source of your problem.

Have you scanned for DTCs? If you have access to an advanced scantool like AlfaOBD or DiagFCA, and you're able to link up to the BCM, you might be able to trigger the trunk latch solenoid through the Test menu.