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Hello. New to the forum and need some help. My 2012 RT is having a cylinder 5 misfire fault and I changed the ignition coil. It was still showing a fault and I took it to the dealership where they diagnosed a lifter/cam issue with a repair price tag of $4800. With only 125k miles, what would cause the (I assume) rounding of the cam? This car is just a daily driver so I am not hard on it.

My general question is what are the benefits of going with an aftermarket replacement cam and possibly heads? Does anyone know of a trusted performance shop in the Chicago area?

I'm on the fence of repair or parting ways with the car. All feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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$4,800 is way way wayyy too high for cam and lifters. Go to a reputable local garage. There are several of us here either with the 5.7 motor or 6.4 that have had cam and lifters issues.

The most likely cause is one of the lifter bearings on your #5 cylinder broke and developed a flat spot and ate into the cam lobe.

Mine happened at 101,000 miles and it was cylinder #8 for me. CE911 I believe his username is, or something similar, had the same issue.

I'd recommend going with an OEM replacement for both the lifters and cam, but that's just me.

I paid $2,700 from a quality garage to have the cam and lifters replaced.

Not sure where you're at with your car, whether you own it or are still financing it, but if your CEL is on or of it makes a noticeable sound, you'll get hosed on trade in value. Obviously your choice, but if you like the car and the repair isn't a major hurdle, I would recommend repairing it and go from there. If it's paid for and you don't mind taking a hit on trade in value, then maybe part ways with it.

I've now put just under 10k miles since the replacement and I'm going strong. Keep us updated.
 

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I have been researching this a fair amount lately to try and understand the problem more and how to prevent it. As stated already, the lifter bearings fail and don't allow a smooth rolling on the cam.. instead grinding away at the cam. This occurred on my charger when it was with the previous owner, and was fixed with warranty. I'm still trying to figure out if Chrysler has since improved the design of the lifters and offered them as OEM replacements around the time mine was fixed (latter part of 2016). My current plan if (or gulp when) lifter failure happens again is a physical MDS delete with a decent cam/tried and true aftermarket lifters.. (I think hellcat lifters are an option for more OEM) and a mild tune to compensate. The idea is try and mirror a hemi that doesn't have this kind of flaw. This car is still a daily street vehicle/road tripper so the performance increase will be nice, but I am more after bulletproofing/overengineering for reliability sake. This car is plenty fast for the street as it is... still need to delve into more research, but just wanted to share my current plan
 

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I have been researching this a fair amount lately to try and understand the problem more and how to prevent it. As stated already, the lifter bearings fail and don't allow a smooth rolling on the cam.. instead grinding away at the cam. This occurred on my charger when it was with the previous owner, and was fixed with warranty. I'm still trying to figure out if Chrysler has since improved the design of the lifters and offered them as OEM replacements around the time mine was fixed (latter part of 2016). My current plan if (or gulp when) lifter failure happens again is a physical MDS delete with a decent cam/tried and true aftermarket lifters.. (I think hellcat lifters are an option for more OEM) and a mild tune to compensate. The idea is try and mirror a hemi that doesn't have this kind of flaw. This car is still a daily street vehicle/road tripper so the performance increase will be nice, but I am more after bulletproofing/overengineering for reliability sake. This car is plenty fast for the street as it is... still need to delve into more research, but just wanted to share my current plan
FlyersHockey and mandm, great feedback. Thanks! My RT is paid for and a daily driver. I wouldn't mind doing some upgrades if I keep it, as it is completely stock. I don't have a project car so maybe this is a sign. I am reading that a OEM 392 cam is a cheap option as a more aggressive cam. If I'm going to pay for the labor of a cam replacement, I wouldn't mind maximizing my performance (with a little tuning of course). Mainly I'm trying to gauge how systemic this issue is if the problem is likely to be seen again.

With all that said, Does anyone have a recommendation for an aggressive cam for a daily driver? I assume a hellcat cam may work with tuning. I will have to research reputable performance shops in the Chicago area as I definitely don't want to tackle this on my own.
 

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Here is a thread with Photographic proof and synopsis of failures. Mind the oil marketing.



The only issue with changing cams, is all the other work that goes into it. Some require different springs, retainers, pushrods, or several adjustments to valve train to make it work. Most of your aggressive aftermarket cams require a VCT limiter which is approx $250 I think. The 392 cam Alot like, however understand it's profile is also designed for a variable intake so your not maximizing power unless you do intake as well. I've heard mix results with just the cam. I would personally just get a true aftermarket one over the 392. Perosnal Opinion worth approx .02 cents.

I was under a budget so I went with Challenger Manual Transmission Cam (VCT, Non MDS add few ponies over stock MDS cam) along with hellcat liters, and a hemifever tune. Seems to work fine so far.

Also, You CAN NOT run Non MDS lifters on a Stock MDS cam.

Also Also Wik, Stock MDS Cam, $274 bucks. Challenger Non MDS Cam......$60 bucks.
 

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Hello. New to the forum and need some help. My 2012 RT is having a cylinder 5 misfire fault and I changed the ignition coil. It was still showing a fault and I took it to the dealership where they diagnosed a lifter/cam issue with a repair price tag of $4800. With only 125k miles, what would cause the (I assume) rounding of the cam? This car is just a daily driver so I am not hard on it.

My general question is what are the benefits of going with an aftermarket replacement cam and possibly heads? Does anyone know of a trusted performance shop in the Chicago area?

I'm on the fence of repair or parting ways with the car. All feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.
Chicago area shop... Jeremy @ Satera Tuning Hampshire ,Il . 331-444-4570 . builds and tunes a lot of Gen 3 Hemi's . can be a little pricy but does excellent work.
 

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Here is a thread with Photographic proof and synopsis of failures. Mind the oil marketing.



The only issue with changing cams, is all the other work that goes into it. Some require different springs, retainers, pushrods, or several adjustments to valve train to make it work. Most of your aggressive aftermarket cams require a VCT limiter which is approx $250 I think. The 392 cam Alot like, however understand it's profile is also designed for a variable intake so your not maximizing power unless you do intake as well. I've heard mix results with just the cam. I would personally just get a true aftermarket one over the 392. Perosnal Opinion worth approx .02 cents.

I was under a budget so I went with Challenger Manual Transmission Cam (VCT, Non MDS add few ponies over stock MDS cam) along with hellcat liters, and a hemifever tune. Seems to work fine so far.

Also, You CAN NOT run Non MDS lifters on a Stock MDS cam.

Also Also Wik, Stock MDS Cam, $274 bucks. Challenger Non MDS Cam......$60 bucks.
Read the entire thread. Good info. I have a lot to think about.
 

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Chicago area shop... Jeremy @ Satera Tuning Hampshire ,Il . 331-444-4570 . builds and tunes a lot of Gen 3 Hemi's . can be a little pricy but does excellent work.
I really appreciate the info. That's not far from where I live in Elburn. I'll have to check them out tomorrow. I found a place in St. Charles but they appear to specialize in the Ford line.
 

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I live in the Chicago land and I could recommend you to a few shops if you want to do an aftermarket or a 392 cam. Hotrodz performance or Pinnacle motorworks. Let me know if you do follow through with that 392 cam I was thinking about doing it to my RT charger but never came about it
 
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