Charger Forums banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I am so happy to have finally acquired my dream car a Charger Scatpack in Knuckle White, I have never owned a Dodge and only have owned a 2018 SS which I didn't really take care of as much as I should have. I plan to keep this car for as long as I can until it essentially dies so reliability and long term lifespan are my goals, I am a total noob when it comes to cars in general, what I mean bt this is I am not a mechanically inclined individual:confused: and didn't even know how to change a spare tire until a month ago loll, and I understand owning a car like this requires a vigilant owner who knows his car to address problems and take proactive steps to ensure the car is in working order.
I want to really take care of this car that I have worked so incredibly hard to be able to afford and just would love to soak up any knowledge! I was hoping the experienced and seasoned owners on this website could help answer some questions directly or direct me or link a sticky to the right threads as I don't even know where to start. I have the following questions for anyone who is willing to answer and help thank you and so excited to finally be apart of the Dodge family. Feel free to answer all or whatever ones you like or none at all haha.

1.) What are the major issues or important things with this car that mechanically or electronically I as a new 392 owner should be well aware of or keep a sharp eye out for?

2.) What are essential/must have "mods" that will aid in enhancing engine life/reliability/better performance in general and are simple "mods" that do not void warranty or constitute being bolt ons or otherwise? So far I only know about a CAI and thats about it I was wondering if I needed like aftermarket pulley or throttle body or etc

3.) What things should I be aware of in terms of monitoring in the performance pages or gauges that I should monitor besides speed? (I heard your car should be a certain oil pressure when idle, moving and higher RPMs and etc and something about oil temp should not exceed 230 or something ? again total Noob question but I have no clue what things like oil pressure and etc should be

4.) Will my engine blow up or be messed up If I totally disregarded the break in period (totally didn't even realize what that was) or will I be okay?

5.) How would I combat rotor rusting in general aswell as any other spots I should be aware of that rust?

6.) What should I know taking this car to my dealership service department or like things I should know about the car so I don't get ripped off or told lies and be totally oblivious to how dealer mechanics or mechanics in general might try and take advantage of me?

7.) Would my Mopar warranty be the best bet to fix certain issues or should I consider a third party auto shop for service?



Thank you guys! Feel free to let me know anything beyond what I listed any information is good information for me(y):D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Mods? Maybe a cargo net for the trunk if you are having fun with the car and forget you bought a few things at the store. Do a CAI and catch can if you must. There just is not a lot more power to gain with bolt-ons.

Follow the break in, not worth the possible problems to shortcut this; you will have plenty of fun miles after these are completed. And if the engine blows up very early, count on the car systems to have a record of things like top speed and possibly more; don't leave anything on the computer which might void coverage of an infant mortality failure.

As to your point #6... Factory warranty must be honored unless you do something to void it. I'm friendly with my dealer, both in and out of warranty.

Rotor rusting. They rust. If there is a drizzle in the next county, your rotors will rust. A couple normal brake applications will shine them up nicely, they will look fine when you reach any destination.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
Hello everyone I am so happy to have finally acquired my dream car a Charger Scatpack in Knuckle White, I have never owned a Dodge and only have owned a 2018 SS which I didn't really take care of as much as I should have. I plan to keep this car for as long as I can until it essentially dies so reliability and long term lifespan are my goals, I am a total noob when it comes to cars in general, what I mean bt this is I am not a mechanically inclined individual:confused: and didn't even know how to change a spare tire until a month ago loll, and I understand owning a car like this requires a vigilant owner who knows his car to address problems and take proactive steps to ensure the car is in working order.
I want to really take care of this car that I have worked so incredibly hard to be able to afford and just would love to soak up any knowledge! I was hoping the experienced and seasoned owners on this website could help answer some questions directly or direct me or link a sticky to the right threads as I don't even know where to start. I have the following questions for anyone who is willing to answer and help thank you and so excited to finally be apart of the Dodge family. Feel free to answer all or whatever ones you like or none at all haha.

1.) What are the major issues or important things with this car that mechanically or electronically I as a new 392 owner should be well aware of or keep a sharp eye out for?
Keep an eye on the uconnect screen, still having delamination issues. If you catch it quick, they'll replace it under warranty. Keep an ear out for diff whine. Take it in at the first sign of it. It may happen, it may not. If caught soon enough a fluid change will save the diff.

2.) What are essential/must have "mods" that will aid in enhancing engine life/reliability/better performance in general and are simple "mods" that do not void warranty or constitute being bolt ons or otherwise? So far I only know about a CAI and thats about it I was wondering if I needed like aftermarket pulley or throttle body or etc
No, no and no. Cold air intakes don't work and your throttle body can support way more airflow than you'll ever make stock. Put some better tires on it and drive it.


3.) What things should I be aware of in terms of monitoring in the performance pages or gauges that I should monitor besides speed? (I heard your car should be a certain oil pressure when idle, moving and higher RPMs and etc and something about oil temp should not exceed 230 or something ? again total Noob question but I have no clue what things like oil pressure and etc should be
Just drive it. It's smart enough to let you know when something goes wrong. Your oil can take way more than 230F


4.) Will my engine blow up or be messed up If I totally disregarded the break in period (totally didn't even realize what that was) or will I be okay?
Don't do that. It's cheap insurance


5.) How would I combat rotor rusting in general aswell as any other spots I should be aware of that rust?
The little bit of rust you'll see on the rotor surfaces will be cleaned off the first time you hit the brakes. Nothing to worry about.


6.) What should I know taking this car to my dealership service department or like things I should know about the car so I don't get ripped off or told lies and be totally oblivious to how dealer mechanics or mechanics in general might try and take advantage of me?
Get to know your service writers, well. That is the best thing you can do


7.) Would my Mopar warranty be the best bet to fix certain issues or should I consider a third party auto shop for service?
[/B]If it's warranty, let the dealer fix it. 3rd party warranty work is hated by the 3rd party doing the work lol


Thank you guys! Feel free to let me know anything beyond what I listed any information is good information for me(y):D
Keep the oil changed regularly, run top tier gas and enjoy the ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,035 Posts
Welcome to the forums. If you have little mechanical aptitude and limited funds for repairs down the road get an extended warranty. I see you commented about a mopar warranty but fail to mention if it the factory or extended.

So, just in case you are referring to the factory warranty, buy a MOPAR Vehicle Protection Max Care Plan or anything else that gives you confidence and actual coverage no matter where you are at when something breaks down. Get [one] that will cover the time and distance you want to keep the car.
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mods? Maybe a cargo net for the trunk if you are having fun with the car and forget you bought a few things at the store. Do a CAI and catch can if you must. There just is not a lot more power to gain with bolt-ons.

Follow the break in, not worth the possible problems to shortcut this; you will have plenty of fun miles after these are completed. And if the engine blows up very early, count on the car systems to have a record of things like top speed and possibly more; don't leave anything on the computer which might void coverage of an infant mortality failure.

As to your point #6... Factory warranty must be honored unless you do something to void it. I'm friendly with my dealer, both in and out of warranty.

Rotor rusting. They rust. If there is a drizzle in the next county, your rotors will rust. A couple normal brake applications will shine them up nicely, they will look fine when you reach any destination.
So I totally disregarded the break in period as I didn't know about it nor did my dealer mention anything about it, again my fault for not taking the initiative to know that so I definitely didn't follow the break in guidelines and Im now a bit worried after what you said because I drove it hard after I left the dealership. How bad will it be? I am at 897 miles now and also is there reports of parts components breaking or major issues with the car that could arise and if so what kinds after such if you don't follow the break in? Even if I didn't wouldn't the dealer still have an obligation to fix any issues that arise from it considering I have mopar warranty for mechanical issues?

"don't leave anything on the computer which might void coverage of an infant mortality failure"
What do you mean by this specifically?^^^^^^^^^^^^


Thank you so much for taking the time out your day to help me very much appreciated man (y)
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Keep an eye on the uconnect screen, still having delamination issues. If you catch it quick, they'll replace it under warranty. Keep an ear out for diff whine. Take it in at the first sign of it. It may happen, it may not. If caught soon enough a fluid change will save the diff.


No, no and no. Cold air intakes don't work and your throttle body can support way more airflow than you'll ever make stock. Put some better tires on it and drive it.



Just drive it. It's smart enough to let you know when something goes wrong. Your oil can take way more than 230F



Don't do that. It's cheap insurance



The little bit of rust you'll see on the rotor surfaces will be cleaned off the first time you hit the brakes. Nothing to worry about.



Get to know your service writers, well. That is the best thing you can do


[/B]
If it's warranty, let the dealer fix it. 3rd party warranty work is hated by the 3rd party doing the work lol




Keep the oil changed regularly, run top tier gas and enjoy the ride.
Simple and solid advice thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome to the forums. If you have little mechanical aptitude and limited funds for repairs down the road get an extended warranty. I see you commented about a mopar warranty but fail to mention if it the factory or extended.

So, just in case you are referring to the factory warranty, buy a MOPAR Vehicle Protection Max Care Plan or anything else that gives you confidence and actual coverage no matter where you are at when something breaks down. Get one that will cover the time and distance you want to keep the car.
I actually did get an extended warranty through fidelity warranty a company based out of Florida I believe that's good for 100k miles on major parts and stuff but I would at least really want to learn basic things I can do on my own my mopar warranty is factory the usual that comes with all new mopars I believe 36k powertrain and etc I hope that answers that Im still trying to understand it all as I have never owned a new car with factory warranty.

Also thank you so much for taking your time to help me really appreciate the info
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welcome to the forums. If you have little mechanical aptitude and limited funds for repairs down the road get an extended warranty. I see you commented about a mopar warranty but fail to mention if it the factory or extended.

So, just in case you are referring to the factory warranty, buy a MOPAR Vehicle Protection Max Care Plan or anything else that gives you confidence and actual coverage no matter where you are at when something breaks down. Get [one] that will cover the time and distance you want to keep the car.
Keep an eye on the uconnect screen, still having delamination issues. If you catch it quick, they'll replace it under warranty. Keep an ear out for diff whine. Take it in at the first sign of it. It may happen, it may not. If caught soon enough a fluid change will save the diff.


No, no and no. Cold air intakes don't work and your throttle body can support way more airflow than you'll ever make stock. Put some better tires on it and drive it.



Just drive it. It's smart enough to let you know when something goes wrong. Your oil can take way more than 230F



Don't do that. It's cheap insurance



The little bit of rust you'll see on the rotor surfaces will be cleaned off the first time you hit the brakes. Nothing to worry about.



Get to know your service writers, well. That is the best thing you can do


[/B]
If it's warranty, let the dealer fix it. 3rd party warranty work is hated by the 3rd party doing the work lol




Keep the oil changed regularly, run top tier gas and enjoy the ride.
So I totally disregarded the break in period as I didn't know about it nor did my dealer mention anything about it, again my fault for not taking the initiative to know that so I definitely didn't follow the break in guidelines and Im now a bit worried after what you said because I drove it hard after I left the dealership. How bad will it be? I am at 897 miles now and also is there reports of parts components breaking or major issues with the car that could arise and if so what kinds after such if you don't follow the break in? Even if I didn't wouldn't the dealer still have an obligation to fix any issues that arise from it considering I have mopar warranty for mechanical issues?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
977 Posts
Your car probably doesn’t have a spare tire so that’s one less thing you have to worry about 😂. Anything you could ever want to know about these cars can be found on this forum so dig in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
So I totally disregarded the break in period as I didn't know about it nor did my dealer mention anything about it, again my fault for not taking the initiative to know that so I definitely didn't follow the break in guidelines and Im now a bit worried after what you said because I drove it hard after I left the dealership. How bad will it be? I am at 897 miles now and also is there reports of parts components breaking or major issues with the car that could arise and if so what kinds after such if you don't follow the break in? Even if I didn't wouldn't the dealer still have an obligation to fix any issues that arise from it considering I have mopar warranty for mechanical issues?
It won't hurt anything. I got my '17 Scat brand new on a dealer trade. It had over 500 miles on it when I picked it up and top speed recorded was 142 lol. I never thought twice about it.

The biggest concern is the diff. Keep an ear out for the whine, first hint of it, take it in for a fluid swap.
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It won't hurt anything. I got my '17 Scat brand new on a dealer trade. It had over 500 miles on it when I picked it up and top speed recorded was 142 lol. I never thought twice about it.
Thanks for the reassurance :LOL: i really thought my engine would blow up or something and Id be screwed my dealer didnt even bother to mention it and I only foundout after 500 miles alter looking at the manual but Ill def be on my toes for anything\

How would I know the whine? is there a video or something on how it sounds ? and when would you usually hear it ? idle or driving or etc? thanks brother
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,035 Posts
I drove it hard after I left the dealership. How bad will it be? I am at 897 miles now . . .
Fear not. I took delivery of my 2019 that was a dealer trade with another dealership. The car was driven from the Corpus area to WFalls TX. A distance of about 500 miles. After delivery I noticed the SRT pages was not cleared and it had a speed of 120 mph logged. Me and the salesman both looked at each other and grinned. Lot of wide open country highway between the 2 places. I never had an engine problems, leaks or consumption at all in 42,000 miles.
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The 392 requires an oil change every 6 months or 6K miles or it voids the warranty. You better stay on top of that.
Most definitely will should I change the oil at 1500k or earlier I heard from multiple sources to do this cause its new and then heard it doesn't matter I assume its the same thing for any engine right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
Fear not. I took delivery of my 2019 that was a dealer trade with another dealership. The car was driven from the Corpus area to WFalls TX. A distance of about 500 miles. After delivery I noticed the SRT pages was not cleared and it had a speed of 120 mph logged. Me and the salesman both looked at each other and grinned. Lot of wide open country highway between the 2 places. I never had an engine problems, leaks or consumption at all in 42,000 miles.
That's funny, mine came from Midland to N Ft Worth lol

You know good and well those porters were having a ball.
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fear not. I took delivery of my 2019 that was a dealer trade with another dealership. The car was driven from the Corpus area to WFalls TX. A distance of about 500 miles. After delivery I noticed the SRT pages was not cleared and it had a speed of 120 mph logged. Me and the salesman both looked at each other and grinned. Lot of wide open country highway between the 2 places. I never had an engine problems, leaks or consumption at all in 42,000 miles.
Good to hear thanks for that bit of info ! Its hard not to immediately go and drive this thing like hell haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
Most definitely will should I change the oil at 1500k or earlier I heard from multiple sources to do this cause its new and then heard it doesn't matter I assume its the same thing for any engine right?
Change it on schedule, any sooner is a waste of money.

As for the whine, you'll hear it loud and clear under acceleration and low speed turns...in the rear in.
 

·
Registered
2022 White Knuckle NB Scatpack Charger (No Options)
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Change it on schedule, any sooner is a waste of money.

As for the whine, you'll hear it loud and clear under acceleration and low speed turns...in the rear in.
Sounds good man thanks for the solid info something I will definitely need to stay on top of in terms of what you said
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,035 Posts
Ingredient Food Drink Preserved food Packaging and labeling


All I will recommend about oil changes is prepare before you need to change the oil and filter. This oil change kit can be purchased off ebay for about $75. There are other oil brands and filters that many members use. You can take the oil and filter to the dealership and pay them a service fee (about $20) to change it and dispose the used oil. Or you change it yourself if you are a super skinny guy (which I am not) or have a set of ramps suitable to drive the front end up so you can wiggle under it.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top