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I have an 08 SRT8 with about 23k miles. I recently had electric cut-outs installed and the guy who did the welding said I needed new brakes. I called Dodge to see how much it would run. They told me the pads, rotors, and labor is about $1200. How ****!!!

The cost I can deal with, but only 23k miles, why would I need new rotors. Can anyone share some insight.

-Thanks!
 

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everyone it seems is haveing trouble with there brakes on here. i think that the brakes they put on these car are not able to take care of these big cars, i really dont know but i have a 2008 r/t and mine are gone with 14800 miles on them and i think that warrenty will cover the rotors being turned. i hope they will. i am going to check. but it sucks and not much we can do about it. 1200 bucks sounds high to me. maybe check around see if you can find them a little cheaper.
 

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I have an 08 SRT8 with about 23k miles. I recently had electric cut-outs installed and the guy who did the welding said I needed new brakes. I called Dodge to see how much it would run. They told me the pads, rotors, and labor is about $1200. How ****!!!

The cost I can deal with, but only 23k miles, why would I need new rotors. Can anyone share some insight.

-Thanks!
Since asbestos is now illegal in brake pads, they are made with metallic shavings which wear the rotors at the same rate as pads.

My 2005 Jeep wrangler needed front rotors and pads, and rear drums (warped) at 25k miles, for a dealer cost of over $800. My first for warped drums.

I engine brake whenever possible, but just replaced my Charger brakes (at 65K miles) with Power slot cryo treated rotors ($688 w/shipping) and Hawk street performance carbon pads ($178 w/shipping). I had VIP install with new high performance fluid ($380±). Total $1246.
 

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I went to an auto part store and they said Wagner Ceramic brakes are nearly as good as the Brembo. They are only $60 for the front pads rather than $360 for the Brembo. He also said since the wear on brakes is 70% front and 30% rear, I only needed to replace the front and not worry about the rotors.

Thoughts???
 

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If you go aftermarket, you should be able to use Raybestos 780389 rotors (about $50-60/each) and Wagner SX1058 pads(about $52 for a set). Those are the cheapest parts I was able to find from a manufacturer that I'd trust. Personally, if I was driving an SRT8, I'd probably go the extra mile and get performance pads (Hawk HPS part#: HB563F are about $100/set), but those I listed above should be just fine for a daily driver. So we're at $160-ish for parts and about 30 minutes of labor (60 if you're really loafing). $1200 at the stealer, eh? LOL

Best,
 

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Thanks for all the input and advice. RitzRT, you are right about the "Stealership" (clever). They can kiss me where it counts for $1200.
 

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I went to an auto part store and they said Wagner Ceramic brakes are nearly as good as the Brembo. They are only $60 for the front pads rather than $360 for the Brembo. He also said since the wear on brakes is 70% front and 30% rear, I only needed to replace the front and not worry about the rotors.

Thoughts???
My uncle owns a parts distribution business, (he supplies Autozone, Advanced Auto, local shops, etc) and he sells Wagners. He says they are good quality and my cost for 06 3.5L would be $40 per set.
 

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Brakes are a considered a wear item, and usually only have a 12K warranty if that. Good luck getting your rotors turned under warranty. I don't think the brakes an in-adequate for these cars. My Dakota weighs just as much and I have much smaller brakes on it. Not to piss in anyones wheaties, but a lot of how long the brakes last has to do with the driver, and not the parts.
 

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Brakes are a considered a wear item, and usually only have a 12K warranty if that. Good luck getting your rotors turned under warranty. I don't think the brakes an in-adequate for these cars. My Dakota weighs just as much and I have much smaller brakes on it. Not to piss in anyones wheaties, but a lot of how long the brakes last has to do with the driver, and not the parts.
exactly, a simple change in driving habits could save you alot of money. not sure when my brakes were put on my car, but I know I've put down about 25,000 miles since I got the car and the pads still have alot of meat on them.

bjwuellner said:
He also said since the wear on brakes is 70% front and 30% rear, I only needed to replace the front and not worry about the rotors.
also keep in mind the traction control system is based on applying the rear brakes when it detects slipping. you should also keep a good eye on the rear brakes.
 

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I have an 08 SRT8 with about 23k miles. I recently had electric cut-outs installed and the guy who did the welding said I needed new brakes. I called Dodge to see how much it would run. They told me the pads, rotors, and labor is about $1200. How ****!!!

The cost I can deal with, but only 23k miles, why would I need new rotors. Can anyone share some insight.

-Thanks!
I had to have mine changed out at 8000 kms.....pads and rotors, and the cost was going to be around $1200 and the dearlership said it was normal wear and tear(WRONG). I complained like crazy an they did it all for free, aswell as upgrading my rotors.
 

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i just put new wagner ceramic's on the front of my 06 3.5, 112.00 cdn. but they work well.
 

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I did all 4 corners from..brakeperformance.com...made in the good ol USof A....And if you get the premium rotors, you get free pads.....Mine are dimpled and slotted...black zinc coated...Lifetime warrenty...They are in MOPAR magazine....And you have an 800 # and talk to a real person if you want!!!!
 

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unless your rotors are warped they shouldnot need to be replaced regardless what kind of pad you buy don't let any one try to charge you any more labor than any other car

the brembo brakes are the easiest to change of any kind I have ever replaced
I road race my charger & drive it daily so every time i go to the track I change my pads
I have street pads & race pads

it takes me 20 min. to do all four corners

jacking up the car & removing the lug nuts is the hardest part
to change your own pads all the tools you will need is a hammer and a punch if you dont have a punch you can use a nail
each caliper has two retaining pins they tap out easily using a nail even the caliper pistons are easily recesed by prysing the rotor and old pad against the caliper pushing
the pistons back to have enough clearance to install the new pads
reinstall the retaining pins with a light tap of a hammer then seat them with the nail
put the wheel back on and your done
dont forget to pump the brake pedal a few times before driving
can be
 
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