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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My brother is a State Trooper and is repeatedly killing the stock brakes, rotors and pads. The car is an '06 and is the R/T version. He can't do a big brake kit because the state won't allow it, but he can upgrade his rotors and pads. What pads and rotors are out there that can handle the heat and not warp and glass over like the stock pads and rotors?
 

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If he can't do a BBK then his only true valued investment will be some higher Cf and temperature rated pads and better fluid. Maybe some braided hoses if they allow it.

Changing the rotor won't offer him anything but improved looks and faster pad wear. You are not changing the thermal mass of the part, the OD for leverage, or the center venting properties so in short; it'll work no differently then the oem part.

Honestly, if he's ripping through this stuff pretty quickly he'd do well to select the cheapest bone stock replacement rotor and toss them out every so many months. Just like a lot of Vette and Mustang track guys do. On the surface this seems foolish. But...if you dig deeper you'll understand.

The problems he has are in many ways related to how he drives. Firm, hard stops from higher rates of speed are what kills his parts. He has no "cool down" lap that you can do on the track. 95mph to pulled over; instant pad transfer and baked on high spot. Period. Dont' care who's rotors they are or how many slots or holes are in them. THIS is the root of his problems.

So, without being able to achieve the added mass or effectiveness the overheating problem will remain. Even on a larger kit you'd have this to a lesser degree. Or he can coast to a stop behind someone on the freeway and he'll avoid the problem!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If he can't do a BBK then his only true valued investment will be some higher Cf and temperature rated pads and better fluid. Maybe some braided hoses if they allow it.

Changing the rotor won't offer him anything but improved looks and faster pad wear. You are not changing the thermal mass of the part, the OD for leverage, or the center venting properties so in short; it'll work no differently then the oem part.

Honestly, if he's ripping through this stuff pretty quickly he'd do well to select the cheapest bone stock replacement rotor and toss them out every so many months. Just like a lot of Vette and Mustang track guys do. On the surface this seems foolish. But...if you dig deeper you'll understand.

The problems he has are in many ways related to how he drives. Firm, hard stops from higher rates of speed are what kills his parts. He has no "cool down" lap that you can do on the track. 95mph to pulled over; instant pad transfer and baked on high spot. Period. Dont' care who's rotors they are or how many slots or holes are in them. THIS is the root of his problems.

So, without being able to achieve the added mass or effectiveness the overheating problem will remain. Even on a larger kit you'd have this to a lesser degree. Or he can coast to a stop behind someone on the freeway and he'll avoid the problem!
The problem with his rotors is they are warping pretty quick. His quick braking is typically when he's on call getting somewhere pretty quick and the people in traffic in front of him hit the brakes b/c they see police in their rear view mirror, causing him to go from 120 to 50 or so a lot, but when you're being called to backup someone, you aren't really considering the damage being done to your brakes, you just want to get there to help a colleague whether they're in trouble or not. Rotors would need to be blanks as they are the best route and brake the best, they just need to not warp so easily. The pads need to be able to handle some heat, such as track pads do, however it has to be driven on the street.
 

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You just repeated most of what I've told you and confirmed it.

His quick braking.......in traffic in front of him hit the brakes ......causing him to go from 120 to 50 or so a lot

He doesn't have "warped rotors". He has a pad problem and a driving style handicap. No rotor change is going to alter this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You just repeated most of what I've told you and confirmed it.

His quick braking.......in traffic in front of him hit the brakes ......causing him to go from 120 to 50 or so a lot

He doesn't have "warped rotors". He has a pad problem and a driving style handicap. No rotor change is going to alter this.
So you're telling me that the charger doesn't have any aftermarket brake components that can handle police work? The driving style cannot be changed, so can you recommend some pads at least that will handle the hard braking?
 

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If there are any factory "police package" parts for the vehicle that use the same caliper the only change will be a beefier rotor for a greater heat sink. That alone won't solve your problems as when the rotor gets to 1000 degrees for example, and you stop the vehicle it still heat soaks the pad. Now if that rotor exists it offers some merit for duty cycle use where the car is not stopped but run hard and given ample cool down. More rotor meat is good as it pulls heat from the pad and fluid.

I'm not up on all things oem so I cannot say for certain there is such a rotor available. Regardless of the rotor, the best investment will be a pad that will operate in a higher heat enviroment without breaking down. Once it's cooked that's it, it's done for and will smear on the rotor.

Because I don't personally sell oem pads I can only suggest a pad compnd such as Hawk HP+ for this. The compound will offer an elevated but stable bite on the rotor and will endure longer heat soak than many other pads. In fact it's often touted as a good "fleet pad" for just such a reason.

For rotors, my only suggestion is that you avoid all the fancy drilled stuff where pad smear can become more evident and the temperature range more damaging to the rotor. Slotted will help wipe the pad but for a compound such as HP+ it won't make any difference in how stable it is when the vehicle is stopped.

In summary, the problem is not stopping. It's stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If there are any factory "police package" parts for the vehicle that use the same caliper the only change will be a beefier rotor for a greater heat sink. That alone won't solve your problems as when the rotor gets to 1000 degrees for example, and you stop the vehicle it still heat soaks the pad. Now if that rotor exists it offers some merit for duty cycle use where the car is not stopped but run hard and given ample cool down. More rotor meat is good as it pulls heat from the pad and fluid.

I'm not up on all things oem so I cannot say for certain there is such a rotor available. Regardless of the rotor, the best investment will be a pad that will operate in a higher heat enviroment without breaking down. Once it's cooked that's it, it's done for and will smear on the rotor.

Because I don't personally sell oem pads I can only suggest a pad compnd such as Hawk HP+ for this. The compound will offer an elevated but stable bite on the rotor and will endure longer heat soak than many other pads. In fact it's often touted as a good "fleet pad" for just such a reason.

For rotors, my only suggestion is that you avoid all the fancy drilled stuff where pad smear can become more evident and the temperature range more damaging to the rotor. Slotted will help wipe the pad but for a compound such as HP+ it won't make any difference in how stable it is when the vehicle is stopped.

In summary, the problem is not stopping. It's stopped.
I just talked to him, the dealership ended up ordering some Hawk pads and I'm not sure what rotors, but they're on the way. Thanks for the info and we'll see how much longer these last.
 

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check out the AP racing brakes... has to be the best brake system i production and the price isnt too shabby!
My brother is a State Trooper and is repeatedly killing the stock brakes, rotors and pads. The car is an '06 and is the R/T version. He can't do a big brake kit because the state won't allow it, but he can upgrade his rotors and pads. What pads and rotors are out there that can handle the heat and not warp and glass over like the stock pads and rotors?
 

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If the car isn't a police edition there is a larger rear rotor
available. The Police Package brakes have a larger rear rotor,
it's a little wider and thicker, but he may already have these.

I'm trying to trace down all the part #'s so I can swap these in
when I'm due for rear brakes. Below is from the service manual
and describes the police package brakes.

 

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THEY OFFER REPLACEMENT DRILLED ROTORS AND MINTEX PADS WHICH ARE SUPPOSED TO BE VERY GOOD!
THX
I think you missed the part about the "no bigger kits and such" or I'd have personally lead him to three different ideas already.
 

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THEY OFFER REPLACEMENT DRILLED ROTORS AND MINTEX PADS WHICH ARE SUPPOSED TO BE VERY GOOD!
THX
Mintex pads are pretty weak sauce....especially the "red box" version. They are designed to be cheap and low dusting. Neither of those translates to better braking. Run away.

If you want to stick with stock size rotors/calipers, I'd follow the advice given above....get pads with a higher friction coefficient (I prefer Hawk HPS over HP+ on street applications due to noise issues) and don't waste your money on drilled rotors. It won't help and might make things worse. Slotted might help keep your pads from glazing as a result of their "cheese grater effect" on the pad surface.

Best,
 
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