[Hooligan Mobile]

I have a 2007 Charger SRT8.

Need to know:

1. Size of socket used to remove the lugs.

I've seen 21mm listed, but that's too small for mine. I was told by a tire store that the lugs on the car are OEM, and have a chrome "cap" over the actual lug, and that if I'm going to remove them myself I need to be careful not to ruin the "cap".

2. Minimum specs on the front and rear rotors.

I bought this car used in 2011 with 22,000 miles. It now has 67,000 (highway) miles. I've never replace any of the brake components. There is some scarring on the driver/rear rotor that looks like it may be pad rivets making contact with the rotor, but I've not had any wear indicator noise, and no metallic sounds when I brake. All rotors have a "lip" on inside and outside circumference of rotor.

3. Links to "how to" threads/videos for replacing pads and/or rotors.

4. Suggestions for where/what pads rotors to get, considering my use.

THANKS!! :grin2:

 

[Chevylover202]

I have a 2007 Charger SRT8.

Need to know:

1. Size of socket used to remove the lugs.

I've seen 21mm listed, but that's too small for mine. I was told by a tire store that the lugs on the car are OEM, and have a chrome "cap" over the actual lug, and that if I'm going to remove them myself I need to be careful not to ruin the "cap".

2. Minimum specs on the front and rear rotors.

I bought this car used in 2011 with 22,000 miles. It now has 67,000 (highway) miles. I've never replace any of the brake components. There is some scarring on the driver/rear rotor that looks like it may be pad rivets making contact with the rotor, but I've not had any wear indicator noise, and no metallic sounds when I brake. All rotors have a "lip" on inside and outside circumference of rotor.

3. Links to "how to" threads/videos for replacing pads and/or rotors.

4. Suggestions for where/what pads rotors to get, considering my use.

THANKS!! <img src="http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/images/ChargerForums2/smilies/tango_face_grin.png" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

 

[RitzRT]

I have a 2007 Charger SRT8.

Need to know:

1. Size of socket used to remove the lugs.

I've seen 21mm listed, but that's too small for mine. I was told by a tire store that the lugs on the car are OEM, and have a chrome "cap" over the actual lug, and that if I'm going to remove them myself I need to be careful not to ruin the "cap".

2. Minimum specs on the front and rear rotors.

I bought this car used in 2011 with 22,000 miles. It now has 67,000 (highway) miles. I've never replace any of the brake components. There is some scarring on the driver/rear rotor that looks like it may be pad rivets making contact with the rotor, but I've not had any wear indicator noise, and no metallic sounds when I brake. All rotors have a "lip" on inside and outside circumference of rotor.

3. Links to "how to" threads/videos for replacing pads and/or rotors.

4. Suggestions for where/what pads rotors to get, considering my use.

THANKS!! :grin2:

Socket size is 22mm. Ignore the "cap" comment. I'm not sure what you mean by minimum specs. Basically when there is less than about 1/8 of an inch of pad material between the rotor and backing plate for the pads, I change them. I generally change the rotors at the same time. If you have a micrometer, you can measure the actual rotor thickness. The minimum spec should be stamped into the rotor. If it was a "new to me" car and the pads looked worn, I'd just pre-emptively change them. I'm sure if you hit youtube, you can find some videos.

There wasn't an SRT-8 charger in 2011 so I'm not sure what pad to recommend to you. You either have an upbadged R/T or a snowflake. When you figure it out, hit Rockauto.com for the selection of available pads/rotors.

Best,

 

[Slidd]

Thought lug but size was 21mm up thru 2010, then went to 22mm.


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[Mangoman]

These cars were based on Mercedes chassis, so I would go with the standard German torque of Guttentight for everything.

 

[13Daytona1625]

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120395

 

[Chevylover202]

I have taken a flathead screwdriver and taken the caps off all the lugs than put them back on. One wheel down three more wheels to go

 

[krautmaster]

The Factory lug nuts are CHEAP...plain nut with a thin stainless steel cover that gets more mangled every time you take them off. Do yourself a favor and get a set of Gorilla Lug Nuts (14x1.5 Acorn Bulge). You can get sets with 1 lock per wheel or sets with all locks (I use these).

 

[Slidd]

The Demon lug nuts finally got rid of the metal covering, they are open and supposedly save 1 lb total.

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