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2 Posts
Pardon my noobie ignorance, but why swap the Brambos? Is there some kind of "they actually bad" thing, or is it a "for when you burn up the stock pads" kinda thing?
Brake Pad Replacement (5.7L) - Step by Step
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I just skimmed through most of this thread, and saw next to nothing on resurfacing or replacing the rotors. Does this mean you all are just replacing the pads and running them until they wear in?(kinda like I used to do with the old organic pads years ago)..
Or is it implied that you use new rotors, or have the originals cut down and trued while doing a brake job.
These are some pretty important aspects to have for a performance vehicle like these big, heavy, and powerful cars that we drive.
Or is it implied that you use new rotors, or have the originals cut down and trued while doing a brake job.
These are some pretty important aspects to have for a performance vehicle like these big, heavy, and powerful cars that we drive.
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12,080 Posts
Since many of us consider the quality of the OEM rotors to be only fair to poor, in most cases where there is significant wear of the pads the rotors are being replaced or turned during a brake job.
However, depending on how much wear the pads have seen, it may not be necessary to do anything to the rotors. Lots of members prefer a lower noise pad or a pad that produces less dust, and changing them out before there's been much wear means the rotor could still be in very good shape and not require any work.
Junior's original post (this thread) described how to do the pad replacement.
I did a pad and rotor replacement thread here: http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52669
However, depending on how much wear the pads have seen, it may not be necessary to do anything to the rotors. Lots of members prefer a lower noise pad or a pad that produces less dust, and changing them out before there's been much wear means the rotor could still be in very good shape and not require any work.
Junior's original post (this thread) described how to do the pad replacement.
I did a pad and rotor replacement thread here: http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52669
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27 Posts
Error
You did not lubricate the travel contact spots with brake grease.
I am still using my tub of EBC.
Use a runout micrometer on the rotors and thickness guage.
Look out for phenolic caliper pistons as sometimes they warp and won't retract causing premature wear and warping from heat.
Make sure not to pigtail the brake line....don't rotate the caliper.
Sweet thread for anyone doing brakes though.
Gotta love pics =]
OK,so I'm a retired ASE cert master tech
You did not lubricate the travel contact spots with brake grease.
I am still using my tub of EBC.
Use a runout micrometer on the rotors and thickness guage.
Look out for phenolic caliper pistons as sometimes they warp and won't retract causing premature wear and warping from heat.
Make sure not to pigtail the brake line....don't rotate the caliper.
Sweet thread for anyone doing brakes though.
Gotta love pics =]
OK,so I'm a retired ASE cert master tech
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91 Posts
Thank you for the excellent tutorial. I went with R1 Concepts Eline Cross Drilled rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Monro parking brake shoes. Even though this write-up was just done for the pads, it did help a lot in figuring out how to do the rotors too. Replacing the parking brakes, on the other hand, was quite a learning experience, but I eventually figured them out on my own.
Everything went pretty smooth, but I had a lot of fun with over-tightened nuts/bolts on both the wheels, and caliper adapters. Previously I had taken my Charger to Firestone, where they cross-threaded one of my wheel lugs so bad that it would just spin without backing off, and over-tightened another so bad that I couldn't loosen it with a cheater bar. I took it back to Firestone so they could fix what they messed up. I also had to fight two over-tightened caliper adapter bolts (seperate caliper adapters), and one of them was over-tightened so bad that it galled the thread on the bolt. Luckily I was able to clean the threads with a small triangle file, and re-use it. It's nice to have air impact wrenches, but honestly they're over-used way too often in areas they shouldn't even be used.
Everything went pretty smooth, but I had a lot of fun with over-tightened nuts/bolts on both the wheels, and caliper adapters. Previously I had taken my Charger to Firestone, where they cross-threaded one of my wheel lugs so bad that it would just spin without backing off, and over-tightened another so bad that I couldn't loosen it with a cheater bar. I took it back to Firestone so they could fix what they messed up. I also had to fight two over-tightened caliper adapter bolts (seperate caliper adapters), and one of them was over-tightened so bad that it galled the thread on the bolt. Luckily I was able to clean the threads with a small triangle file, and re-use it. It's nice to have air impact wrenches, but honestly they're over-used way too often in areas they shouldn't even be used.
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27 Posts
also look for uneven pad wear from side to side
this would indicate caliper malfunction from the phenolic caliper pistons being warped and not retracting into the calipers after the brakes are applied.
Calipers are ava with steel pistons from AC Delco
Part numbers for 07 RT 2wd 5.7 Hemi
Front calipers
Product line D14
#18FR2413 $78.52
#18FR2412 $78.52
$8.80 core charge each
Comes with caliper bracket,hardware and stainless pad retaining clips
not loaded..."no disc pads"
Full Service sells them
San Antonio warehouse phone number...210-590-4040
they will ship
at the cost of return shipping,I would keep my cores
this would indicate caliper malfunction from the phenolic caliper pistons being warped and not retracting into the calipers after the brakes are applied.
Calipers are ava with steel pistons from AC Delco
Part numbers for 07 RT 2wd 5.7 Hemi
Front calipers
Product line D14
#18FR2413 $78.52
#18FR2412 $78.52
$8.80 core charge each
Comes with caliper bracket,hardware and stainless pad retaining clips
not loaded..."no disc pads"
Full Service sells them
San Antonio warehouse phone number...210-590-4040
they will ship
at the cost of return shipping,I would keep my cores
Good stuff
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3 Posts
Great pix.
After 30,000km I am fitting EBC Yellow Stuff pads to my 2012 SRT Super Bee now and the dealer said they do not machine the rotors/discs (because they are slotted). I suspect this is not correct, can anyone clarify please?
After 30,000km I am fitting EBC Yellow Stuff pads to my 2012 SRT Super Bee now and the dealer said they do not machine the rotors/discs (because they are slotted). I suspect this is not correct, can anyone clarify please?
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91 Posts
Slotted, and/or cross-drilled rotors are non-serviceable. The R1 Concepts Eline Cross Drilled rotors are still holding up just fine, with absolutely no warping, since installed them around 3/26/2012, along with the Hawk HPS pads. I am going to pull my wheels when is starts warming up, but from what I saw in fall, the pads had plenty of wear left in them to last me until this summer. My car is a daily driver with 129,000 miles on it.
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12,080 Posts
Actually, slotted and drilled rotors CAN be machined but most operators don't want to do it because it puts more wear and introduces greater risk to the blades on their machines. If you replace the pads and don't notice any vibration, you're probably fine.
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13,176 Posts
Just a reminder, from the bottom of the original post:
Within a week or so, it's a good idea to bed in the brakes. Here's the proper procedure for doing that, from Dave Zeckhausen:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
:bigthumb:
Within a week or so, it's a good idea to bed in the brakes. Here's the proper procedure for doing that, from Dave Zeckhausen:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
:bigthumb:
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5,660 Posts
Come on now, you've been here long enough to know about the "How do I do everything" thread :biggrinjester:
The thread about the SRT brakes doesn't have pictures anymore but they have a PDF of the original thread so use that for your assistance :beerchug:.
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5,660 Posts
Haha! It's all good, I figured you haven't been on in some time, just had to give you a hard time :alfdance:
Good luck though! Looks like working on the Brembos is a lot more involved than my wee brakes.
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1,054 Posts
I did my front brakes and rotors - pretty easy. Thats a very big 13/16 bolt holding those calipers on!
I did crack the bleeders to push in the caliper piston and I did need to bleed a little
The clips.
1. Should they be greased at all? Any maintance on these?
2. I noticed one of the clips had one of those tiny notches bent outward, should they be flat?
3. Doing the rears tomorrow - they came with clips - is it necessary to change out the clips?
I did crack the bleeders to push in the caliper piston and I did need to bleed a little
The clips.
1. Should they be greased at all? Any maintance on these?
2. I noticed one of the clips had one of those tiny notches bent outward, should they be flat?
3. Doing the rears tomorrow - they came with clips - is it necessary to change out the clips?
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