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My LH, RH, and Center brake lights do not come on when braking. The bulbs are not bad bc the taillights come on with parking/headlights like they should but do not get brighter when braking. Also, the LH and RH taillights work with the turn signal and hazard switch. I checked the fuses (#8 in front and #19 in rear if I remember correctly) and they're all good. Then I replaced my brake pedal switch, and they still do not work! Does anybody know how to fix this? I would like to try and fix it myself if possible, but may have to take it in to the dealer if I can't fix it soon.
 

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Does the trunk pop open when u press the button on keyfob or under steering wheel?
Does the light inside the trunk area turn on when it is supposed to or is it intermittent or not at all?
If either of these happen, then it is maybe the wires in the rubber boot that connects into the trunk.
When u open the trunk, you will see a rubber boot to the right side that connects to the rest of the vehicle. The wires inside may have been cut. Pop it open, fix connections, and it should do the trick.
Let us know your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Trunk opens with both the button and the key FOB, trunk light comes on, and the wiring harness and connectors appear to be in good shape. I'm kind of at a loss at what else it could be. Will probably have to just take in unless someone else has a good theory. Thanks though
 

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Does the trunk pop open when u press the button on keyfob or under steering wheel?
Does the light inside the trunk area turn on when it is supposed to or is it intermittent or not at all?
If either of these happen, then it is maybe the wires in the rubber boot that connects into the trunk.
When u open the trunk, you will see a rubber boot to the right side that connects to the rest of the vehicle. The wires inside may have been cut. Pop it open, fix connections, and it should do the trick.
Let us know your progress!

That rubber boot with the wires in it was kinked and was popping out of the trunk when I used to shut the trunk on my Charger RT when I ordered my car and got it brand new from the Brampton assembly plant in Ontario, Canada. I was driving around almost 1 1/2 year with that rubber boot sticking out of the trunk. The Dodge dealer attempted to fix it about 3 or 4 times and it kept popping out of the trunk every time that they believed that they fixed it lol. The dealer was finally able to twist the rubber boot in a way that it stayed put and didn't pop out of the trunk anymore.

What really bothers me right now is this:
During the time that the rubber boot used to stick out of the trunk, I used to open and close the trunk quite a bit to put things into and to take things out of the trunk. The rubber boot was kinked when I was doing all that opening and closing of the trunk lid. I wonder how much damage was done to all the wires inside the rubber boot from opening and closing the trunk lid so many times over that 1 1/2 year??? The dealer told me that these wires extend from the rubber boot all the way inside the car underneath the carpet and underneath the dashboard and into the engine bay. These wires are part of the main wiring harness in the vehicle. They also told me that the ONLY way to replace these wires if the wiring harness ever gets damaged or cut is by stripping the entire interior of the car (taking out the front and rear seats and carpeting) and replacing the damaged wiring harness with another one. It's a $3,000+ dollar repair job. Luckily, I have the Max Care Unlimited Miles/Unlimited Years Bumper to Bumper Warranty and the wiring harness is covered if it ever poses a problem in my RT.
 

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The brake light system is pretty straightforward; not much computer control involved. Pretty much the fuse (#19) and brake switch, both of which you've already checked or replaced.

Early model Chargers (with the original anti-lock brake system MK25) had a relay that allows the brake lights to be disabled by the ABS system. After about mid-2005 they started using a different ABS controller module (MK25E) and the relay isn't supposed to exist anymore. But when I look in my 2006 fuse block, I actually have a relay in that location. Take a look at this diagram of the rear power distribution center. Near the bottom left is a relay "stop lamp inhibit." It's a bit of a long shot, but if you have a relay in this location and it's gone bad, it could be preventing the brake lights from operating. Pop it out and see if the brake lights work. If they do, I'd recommend replacing the relay as opposed to leaving it out, although it doesn't appear to serve any other function.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
The brake light system is pretty straightforward; not much computer control involved. Pretty much the fuse (#19) and brake switch, both of which you've already checked or replaced.

Early model Chargers (with the original anti-lock brake system MK25) had a relay that allows the brake lights to be disabled by the ABS system. After about mid-2005 they started using a different ABS controller module (MK25E) and the relay isn't supposed to exist anymore. But when I look in my 2006 fuse block, I actually have a relay in that location. Take a look at this diagram of the rear power distribution center. Near the bottom left is a relay "stop lamp inhibit." It's a bit of a long shot, but if you have a relay in this location and it's gone bad, it could be preventing the brake lights from operating. Pop it out and see if the brake lights work. If they do, I'd recommend replacing the relay as opposed to leaving it out, although it doesn't appear to serve any other function.

I do have a relay in that spot. I pulled it out and pressed the brake pedal and the lights still do not come on. I'm attempting to diagnose where the problem is occurring, but i need help. If I understand correctly, the brake system goes from the Battery>Rear Fuse Block (#19)>Brake Pedal Switch>Taillamp Connector>Taillamp Bulb. How do you test if the brake pedal switch is good? There are like 6 different wires, and I want to make sure that power is going to the switch, and when the brake pedal is pressed, that power is leaving from the switch. Anybody have a wiring diagram for this?:SM030:
 

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I do have a relay in that spot. I pulled it out and pressed the brake pedal and the lights still do not come on. I'm attempting to diagnose where the problem is occurring, but i need help. If I understand correctly, the brake system goes from the Battery>Rear Fuse Block (#19)>Brake Pedal Switch>Taillamp Connector>Taillamp Bulb. How do you test if the brake pedal switch is good? There are like 6 different wires, and I want to make sure that power is going to the switch, and when the brake pedal is pressed, that power is leaving from the switch. Anybody have a wiring diagram for this?:SM030:
When the brake pedal is depressed, the switch should connect contact 6 (+12V and fuse side) and contact 5 (lamp side).




Here's the first part of the rear lighting diagram. In theory, the parts that are labeled "except MK25E" shouldn't exist in your 2007. Connection "M" goes to the sockets and then to the lights as expected (nothing interesting there). Probably a really good idea to test the switch first, even though it's new.
 

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The 2007 system uses a relay, which is grounded by the ABS controller, but I believe it is for if the brakes are applied during an ABS/ESP event. The output of the relay, and the direct output of the brake light switch both go to Splice 302, which ultimately go to the brake lights. So the relay really isn't a factor here. S302 is inside of the PDC in the trunk, so if all of them aren't working I'd look inside there at the splice.
 

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I was able to get it figured out over the weekend. Thank you to mnunes for pointing me in the right direction! I tested the switch and it was good. Then I tested the wiring at the switch to see if power was going to the switch and leaving from it. I found this to help me figure out what each wire was:

I was able to determine that their was no power getting to the switch via the Pink/ Dark Blue wire (the output wire for the brake lights is green/white). I ran a jumper from another wire with power, and then the brake lights worked! I tore my interior apart and inspected the wiring harness to see if I could find the problem with the pink/dark blue wire coming from the fuse in the trunk to the switch, but I didn't see anything wrong with it. It bothers me that it's not fixed correctly, but the jumper wire will work for now. It didn't cost me any $, and now I don't have to keep driving around with no brake lights! :driving:
 

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I ran a jumper from another wire with power, and then the brake lights worked! I tore my interior apart and inspected the wiring harness to see if I could find the problem with the pink/dark blue wire coming from the fuse in the trunk to the switch, but I didn't see anything wrong with it. It bothers me that it's not fixed correctly, but the jumper wire will work for now. It didn't cost me any $, and now I don't have to keep driving around with no brake lights! :driving:
Where did you tap into to get the power source? The brake lights have a dedicated 10amp fuse because they can draw quite a bit of current when active. If you're pulling from some other critical system that doesn't have much to spare, you could end up blowing that fuse.
 

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I know this threads old but I'm trying to get help with a very similar issue my brake lights won't light up at all I have a 2008 Dodge Charger and the switch is brand new and I checked all the fuses my car doesn't have a relay that I can find I was told it doesn't have one because it's 2008 third brake light has no power to it neither does the elimination phase for my tail lights. I would like to get my car running again my wife bought it for me for Christmas and this is the first issue I've really had out of it so can somebody please help me figure out what's wrong and where should I start the look besides where I've looked the switch works because it unlocks my gear shift these are the things I know of right now if I missed anything let me know
 
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