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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I may be about to become the new owner of a 2016 V8 AWD Charger (former police vehicle with the civilian appearance package). I know I will new brakes and rotors at some point and I'm looking for the best price/performance ratio. Will the Power Stop K7051-26 kit work with my car? Is this better or worse braking than comes in the police package? Is there a better option on the market? Do I also need new capilers, or is that something that just transfers over?

Sorry for the ignorance, hoping to learn!
 

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Those will work fine since you already have the police brakes on the car (BR9 package). IMO, the 2014 1/2 and up police brakes with the 14.6" fronts and 13.8" rears are the best everyday brake package short of the 6 piston Brembos (which cannot be retro fitted to an AWD car anyway).

I do not recommend use of their ceramic Z26 pads (or any Powerstop pads for that matter, as they have very little grip when cold - dangerously so in my experience). I put the BR9 Police package on my 2016 SXT+ in May 2018 and struggled with poor cold performance from the Powerstop "Top Cop" Z37 pads. I finally tried new pads in May 2020, the Performance Friction carbon metallic set and they provide excellent grip and pedal feel when cold or hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those will work fine since you already have the police brakes on the car (BR9 package). IMO, the 2014 1/2 and up police brakes with the 14.6" fronts and 13.8" rears are the best everyday brake package short of the 6 piston Brembos (which cannot be retro fitted to an AWD car anyway).

I do not recommend use of their ceramic Z26 pads (or any Powerstop pads for that matter, as they have very little grip when cold - dangerously so in my experience). I put the BR9 Police package on my 2016 SXT+ in May 2018 and struggled with poor cold performance from the Powerstop "Top Cop" Z37 pads. I finally tried new pads in May 2020, the Performance Friction carbon metallic set and they provide excellent grip and pedal feel when cold or hot.
Thanks! Where do I find new pads/rotors/kit for the BR9 Package? Is there a model number? And those are better than the Powerstop?
 

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You can buy plain rotors from any auto parts store like O'Reilly, Advance, Napa, etc (I would take a look at the selection available on Rockauto.com). I got the pads from bestbrakes.com :

 

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Thanks! Where do I find new pads/rotors/kit for the BR9 Package? Is there a model number? And those are better than the Powerstop?
Yes, the PFC pads are 1000% better than the Powestop pads... I do use the Powerstop rotors on all four of my cars- they are not overdrilled (they are not "cheese graters" like most drilled rotors) and the zinc coating keeps them looking good for a very long time- comparison between stock rotors and Powerstop rotors:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can buy plain rotors from any auto parts store like O'Reilly, Advance, Napa, etc (I would take a look at the selection available on Rockauto.com). I got the pads from bestbrakes.com :

I'm sorry for the stupid questions. I'm looking at the websites. What company makes the BR9 components?

You linked two products. Is one for the front and one for the rear? It doesn't say on the site. When I look up compatible rotors on Autozone, it only lists 4 Duralast models. When I look on bestbrakes.com, the rotors seem to cost $217!!!!! each??? I looked on Rockauto and I was struggling to find a kit or something. Also, I live in the northeast (if that makes a difference of which model to get). I appreciate your help.
 

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The BR9 are the factory stock brakes for Police cars starting in mid 2014 to the present. The calipers are made for Mopar by Akebono, but that doesn't matter.

The PFC pads I linked to are one set for the front (1767.20), one set for the rear (1766.20).

Also, do yourself a giant favor and STAY AWAY from DURALAST ROTORS & PADS, they are garbage.

Here are some Powerstop rotors (price is for a set of two)
Front:

Rear:

Here are some plain rotors from O' Reilly (price is for ONE).


q=brake+rotor&pos=15

Here are some OEM Type rotors from NAPA (price is for ONE) these are the ones the ABQ Police use as replacements.


 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The BR9 are the factory stock brakes for Police cars starting in mid 2014 to the present. Doesn't matter who made them, but my calipers have "Akebono" cast into them. The PFC pads I linked to are one set for the front (1767.20), one set for the rear (1766.20).

Also, do yourself a giant favor and STAY AWAY from DURALAST ROTORS & PADS, they are garbage.

Here are some Powerstop rotors (price is for a set of two)
Front:

Rear:

Here are some plain rotors from O' Reilly.


q=brake+rotor&pos=15

Here are some OEM Type rotors from NAPA


Thank you for this! Are those (powerstop) rotors the best bang for your (my) buck?
What model pads are the best? I'm worried about reading about the metal ceramic ones needing to wash rotors down or something.
Is there a better (cheaper, more reliable) place to get them?
 

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I use the Power stop rotors on all four of my cars, I don't care about how much they cost, but they were all reasonably priced and they all look great and have very little wear after years of use.

Now for pads: Everybody has their own opinion on which ones are the best, and it all depends on the type of use, but generally these hold true:

Ceramic pads are clean but don't stop for schitt when cold, and can "warp" your rotors far too easily (the rotors don't really warp, it just feels like it: the ceramic pad can melt to the rotor building up high spots, which causes them to grab at those high spots when you apply the brakes, which then makes it feel like the rotors are warped). I hate plain ceramic pads.

Semi Metallic pads stop good cold or hot, but they make lots of dust that is hard to get off, many brands wear out quickly, and some can tear up the rotors in no time at all.- too much work for a daily driver !

Carbon Metallic pads make more dust than ceramics, but are far less messy than semi metallic pads. The dust they do make cleans up very easily (rinses mostly off with a hose, very little scrubbing needed). They stop good cold or hot, and grip like crazy when fully warmed up.

I use Raybestos Element Three EHT pads (these are a ceramic-metallic-carbon mixture) on my three other cars, but since they do not make them for the Police models, I use the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use the Power stop rotors on all four of my cars, I don't care about how much they cost, but they were all reasonably priced and they all look great and have very little wear after years of use.

Now for pads: Everybody has their own opinion on which ones are the best, and it all depends on the type of use, but generally these hold true:

Ceramic pads are clean but don't stop for schitt when cold, and can "warp" your rotors far too easily (the rotors don't really warp, it just feels like it: the ceramic pad can melt to the rotor building up high spots, which causes them to grab at those high spots when you apply the brakes, which then makes it feel like the rotors are warped). I hate plain ceramic pads.

Semi Metallic pads stop good cold or hot, but they make lots of dust that is hard to get off, many brands wear out quickly, and some can tear up the rotors in no time at all.- too much work for a daily driver !

Carbon Metallic pads make more dust than ceramics, but are far less messy than semi metallic pads. The dust they do make cleans up very easily (rinses mostly off with a hose, very little scrubbing needed). They stop good cold or hot, and grip like crazy when fully warmed up.

I use Raybestos Element Three EHT pads (these are a ceramic-metallic-carbon mixture) on my three other cars, but since they do not make them for the Police models, I use the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads.
Thank you so much for this explainer. This really helps me get more of a grip (no pun intended) on the issue.

The Powerstop rotors you sent me are the same size/braking power as the stock ones that come on my pursuit?

I live in the northeast with the pursuit charger. I don't have access to a hose to wash off the rotors. What's my next best option for pads?

Next are calipers. I shouldn't need new ones, right? Are there ones that give performance upgrades to what comes stock? (under 1k)

Thank you so much, this is really helping me figure stuff out!
 

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Yes, the Powerstop rotors I listed are the ones that fit your Pursuit (14.6" front, 13.8" rear). You should not need new calipers unless they are sticking or leaking, just grease the caliper pins well and give them all a good bleeding to get all the old brake fluid out.

As for cleaning the brake dust, just take it through the car wash, it will be fine (the Performance Friction pads wear at about 1/2 the rate of other pads, so what dust they make is not a problem).

There really are no better options for brakes for an AWD Charger that won't cost $3K, you've got some of the best brakes made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, the Powerstop rotors I listed are the ones that fit your Pursuit (14.6" front, 13.8" rear). You should not need new calipers unless they are sticking or leaking, just bleed them well. As for cleaning the brake dust, just take it through the car wash, it will be fine (the Performance Friction pads wear at about 1/2 the rate of other pads, so what dust they make is not a problem).

There really are no better options for brakes for an AWD Charger that won't cost $3K, you've got some of the best brakes made.
Thank you so much for your help! I have a couple other questions if you have a few more minutes? (suspension, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The front suspension can be a nightmare, lots of pieces that may need to be replaced if you have a lot of clunking from the front: sway bar links, sway bar bushings, upper control arms, tie rod ends, lower control arms, etc.... best left to a professional.
So I wasn't going to do the replacements for the brakes or the suspension myself. I like buying the parts myself cuz that way I know I'm getting the best bang for my buck parts and not getting ripped off.

My question about suspension is I'd like to make my charger a little more "hardy." I don't want to put in a 2 foot lift kit or do anything ridiculous like that. The area I live in has a number of pot holes, and sometimes I'll drive it on unpaved roads. Are there parts that I can purchase for the suspension, not to make it into a jeep wrangler, but something that can handle more rough terrain/potholes, snow, etc better? I'm not looking to end up on shittycarmods, but just something a little bit more tough.

(my current (previous) car got a strut and whatever suspension parts (I think?) destroyed in a pothole the city neglected to fix)
 

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So I wasn't going to do the replacements for the brakes or the suspension myself. I like buying the parts myself cuz that way I know I'm getting the best bang for my buck parts and not getting ripped off.

My question about suspension is I'd like to make my charger a little more "hardy." I don't want to put in a 2 foot lift kit or do anything ridiculous like that. The area I live in has a number of pot holes, and sometimes I'll drive it on unpaved roads. Are there parts that I can purchase for the suspension, not to make it into a jeep wrangler, but something that can handle more rough terrain/potholes, snow, etc better? I'm not looking to end up on shittycarmods, but just something a little bit more tough.

(my current (previous) car got a strut and whatever suspension parts (I think?) destroyed in a pothole the city neglected to fix)
None that I know off.. the Pursuit models come with a beefier suspension than the regular models.. Bilstein struts maybe, but I'm not sure they make ones that fit the AWD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
None that I know off.. the Pursuit models come with a beefier suspension than the regular models.. Bilstein struts maybe, but I'm not sure they make ones that fit the AWD.
Yeah, nothing for the awd from bilstein, I checked :(

I was looking at a few other upgrades (under 1k). Any suggestions? Does a cold air intake increase performance? Is it worth the price? I don't want my charger to sound cool, I want it to go quickly.

I wanted to upgrade the speakers and amp in the car. I priced out speakers for about 350 (for all 6) that seemed reasonable enough. Is there a reasonable priced way to upgrade the amp in this car? Or do I need this 350 part plus an amp? I was looking on Crutchfield and I was unable to find anything really. I'm fine spending around 400 for speakers and like 300 for an amp, but I don't want to pour thousands into speakers, it's just not that big of a deal for me.
 

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Most "cold air intakes" are open to the hot air under the hood and therefore are really "hot air intakes" that actually decrease performance on Mopars that use a MAP Sensor to feed the computer (Manifold Absolute Pressure). For the car to run optimally you need the coldest densest air possible (higher pressure), not the hot thin air under the hood (much lower pressure). My little V6 can smoke the hell out of the rear wheels on a cold morning due to the air being very dense.

The best solution is a Hellcat Lower Airbox and Hellcat air filter, and if you feel like removing the front bumper cover, add the Hellcat air tube that brings in fresh air straight from the grille. The Hellcat airbox has a lot more open space and flows better than your RT airbox. I also remove the lower snorkel that sits below the airbox in the wheel well, since it tends to ingest water when driving through puddles and can hydro locking the engine.

I know nothing about car stereo stuff, I usually listen to my exhaust ! My stock Alpine stereo is fine for what it is. The wife's Rallye has the Beats stereo and it sounds better if set up correctly. I have my expensive audiophile grade stereo in my living room where I can listen without distractions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Most "cold air intakes" are open to the hot air under the hood and therefore are really "hot air intakes" that actually decrease performance on Mopars that use a MAP Sensor to feed the computer (Manifold Absolute Pressure). For the car to run optimally you need the coldest densest air possible (higher pressure), not the hot thin air under the hood (much lower pressure). My little V6 can smoke the hell out of the rear wheels on a cold morning due to the air being very dense.

The best solution is a Hellcat Lower Airbox and Hellcat air filter, and if you feel like removing the front bumper cover, add the Hellcat air tube that brings in fresh air straight from the grille. The Hellcat airbox has a lot more open space and flows better than your RT airbox. I also remove the lower snorkel that sits below the airbox in the wheel well, since it tends to ingest water when driving through puddles and can hydro locking the engine.

I know nothing about car stereo stuff, I usually listen to my exhaust ! My stock Alpine stereo is fine for what it is. The wife's Rallye has the Beats stereo and it sounds better if set up correctly. I have my expensive audiophile grade stereo in my living room where I can listen without distractions.
So I found the hellcat air filter from rockauto no problem. I'm guessing it fits right into the charger?

I found the lower airbox from the hellcat and it seems that it wants to be connected to a headlight (a challenger headlight). It's telling me I need some sort of a headlight intake. How does that work with my charger lights?

Is there a tutorial on how to remove the snorkel? Very happy to do it, didn't seem to he anything when I Googled.

Thanks
 

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Here is a link to the thread I did when I put the hellcat air tube on my wifes purple Rallye (it has an AFE Momentum intake, but the air duct goes in the same location as the Hellcat air box)

to remove the snorkel you have to remove the drivers wheel, take out the plastic fender well liner or you can just remove the push pins for the front half of the fender well liner and pull it down out of the way. The lower duct has one bolt and one push pin.
Pic 1: RT vs Hellcat airboxes
Pic 2: location of lower snorkel
Pic 3: snorkel removed
Pic 4: parts illustration
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here is a link to the thread I did when I put the hellcat air tube on my wifes purple Rallye (it has an AFE Momentum intake, but the air duct goes in the same location as the Hellcat air box)

to remove the snorkel you have to remove the drivers wheel, take out the plastic fender well liner or you can just remove the push pins for the front half of the fender well liner and pull it down out of the way. The lower duct has one bolt and one push pin.
Pic 1: RT vs Hellcat airboxes
Pic 2: location of lower snorkel
Pic 3: snorkel removed
Pic 4: parts illustration
Hey! Sorry for taking so long to reply. I was just busy flying halfway across the country to go pick up my new Charger!!! Well, I just put 1k miles driving her home, but I guess that's what I got the car for. I appreciate your detailed instructions on this project. Why should I use the Hellcat intake over the AFE one that you used? Is the lower intake (and the hellcat filter) the only parts that I'll need for this project? I'm a little new to car stuff and still learning so I appreciate all your help!
 
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