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The one pin without the isolated seized on me. Pulled it out and was all chewed up as if dirt some how got in there.
 

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I had no sign of dirt on mine when it got stuck. Then a few weeks later I drove into work one day and on the way back home my brake pedal got stiff (like it does when you take over braking from the adaptive cruise control). That same caliper get stuck again and the rotor was nearly 600 degrees when I pulled it at home. It was too hot to touch that day, so I just let it sit until the weekend.

I couldn't find a damn thing wrong though that time. No pins stuck, brake hose didn't seem restricted at all (but I changed it anyway). I even drove around logging the wheel speed sensors to see if one of the wheels showed different than the others. I put new pistons (already had them) in the calipers, but the old ones weren't stuck.

This is really just speculation, but this was in January, so it was cold (for SC) out. Couple that with the 4 year old battery and only driving once a week at best (thanks china), the battery did seem weak. It was turning over slowly when starting and I had the computers go into power saving on me once. So I got a new battery for it, and so far it's been ok. Granted I've only driven about 500 miles since January. So my best theory there is that since I couldn't find anything mechanical wrong, that the weak battery may have been making the abs/traction control/cruise control act up and apply a brake.

Maybe that wasn't it, but I have seen lots of strange stuff happen with this car in the past when it had a weak battery in 2016. Had issues with the remote not working and the instrument cluster acting up. Replaced the 6 month old motorcrap battery (put it in by the ford dealer I bought it from) and everything was fine again. My Durango acts up in weird ways when it's battery gets weak too (stuggles to maintain idle, doors unlocking themselves, radio turning off and on, etc). Plonk in a new battery and it's happy. Seems to be a Chrysler thing.
 

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Well I don’t need a new bracket but had all sorts of grit in the slide pins holes. Cleaned them out. New guide pins and new boots.

 

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I have 2 questions... what backing plate would I use.on my 2007 Dodge Magnum RT for the BR9 swap? And has anyone confirmed the Russell braided brake lines work with the swap on a RWD car? Thanks for the help
 

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I believe the holes for the bolts line up on all the cars the same. I ‘believe’. It’s no biggie if you run them without the dust shield, though everything will get slightly dirtier. I’d also like to know if the SS lines work as well.
 

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I’d also like to know if the SS lines work as well.
I have them, More trouble than its worth, not night and day difference. More suited to racing temperatures.
 

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SS lines.
As for BR9, I have them and = definitely worth the effort. To take full advantage get PFC carbon metallic pads.
 

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The backing plate of my PFC pads fell off and they def clunk during bumps.
 

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hey guys,
luckily I found this thread via google and went through it (not completely now, but in progress). in addition I found this thread with perfect parts list: 2013 Upgrade to Pursuit Rotors and Brakes

my question is about the front calipers. can anybody help me with an information if there are still aftermarket calipers available? unfortunately I could not find a website to purchase the "cardone" calipers or any others by searching with the mopar part numbers.
I have to ship everything to EU and prices increase seriously due to customs and tax fee.

thanks a lot ;)
 

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hey guys,
luckily I found this thread via google and went through it (not completely now, but in progress). in addition I found this thread with perfect parts list: 2013 Upgrade to Pursuit Rotors and Brakes

my question is about the front calipers. can anybody help me with an information if there are still aftermarket calipers available? unfortunately I could not find a website to purchase the "cardone" calipers or any others by searching with the mopar part numbers.
I have to ship everything to EU and prices increase seriously due to customs and tax fee.

thanks a lot ;)

by the way, I have a chrysler 300c (in europe Lancia Thema), it is a LX of model 2012. everything seems to be fine, I have BR5 brake code and even the M14 bolts in the knuckles. just having the old type of bearings, but I read it still is possible with them.
I'm not sure if they ship to the EU, but rockauto.com shows some raybestos part numbers if you look up for a 2015 Dodge Charger 5.7 pursuit. You might be able to find other aftermarket part numbers this way as well, just be sure they are for the BR9 calipers and not the br5/br8 calipers.

299410
 
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I'm not sure if they ship to the EU, but rockauto.com shows some raybestos part numbers if you look up for a 2015 Dodge Charger 5.7 pursuit. You might be able to find other aftermarket part numbers this way as well, just be sure they are for the BR9 calipers and not the br5/br8 calipers.

View attachment 299410
great thanks, noted that.
yes rockauto offers shipping to EU.

just one more thing, on rockauto I found 368mm rotors. is it just a wrong calculation between inch and mm or are there any other brakes with actually 368mm?
 

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great thanks, noted that.
yes rockauto offers shipping to EU.

just one more thing, on rockauto I found 368mm rotors. is it just a wrong calculation between inch and mm or are there any other brakes with actually 368mm?
BR9 front rotors are 14.5", or roughly 368mm.
 
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Anyone who did this upgrade and went with the PFC pads. Have you notice any noise from the pads? I had that dreadful “front end clunk” turned out to be the pads in the anti rattle clips clunking. Changed at the clips and still getting a clunking noise from the pads when I hit bumps and what not. I did notice the one guide pin was seized in place with dirt and whatnot. New pin and boot as well and still having symptoms. I maybe go with an OEM pad. I dk yet. Kraut. Need some assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #835 ·
The anti rattle clips have tangs on them to keep the pads from contacting the rotor when the brakes are not applied - break those suckers OFF so the pad stay up close to the rotor-it will firm up the first push of the pedal and decrease the pad clunk:
 

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Did that and they still clunked when I hit bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #837 ·
Remove the mufflers or turn up the stereo ! The PF pads are so much better than the Z37 Top Cop pads that I'd be willing to put up with a little noise, however mine are silent. You may have a set that wasn't made to specs (soo small)...
 

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Don't sound right. I've been doing brakes since the 70's, get in there and see whats up.
I can only guess if not the wrong pads or loose bolts or stuck slider pins the calipers pistons sticking.

And I have used Permatex Disc Brake Quiet on my pads since it was released and never a peep out of mine.

Good luck, would enjoy knowing what you find.
 

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Yehj, I'm runnin OE BR9 Low Met pads and much better then PS Z37.
 

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I'm running PFC pads on my BR9 upgrade (2015 RT) and I don't have any clunks or rattles that I've noticed. I did bend the tangs on the anti-rattle clips so they don't hold the pads so far from the rotor. Thought I would try that before cutting them completely off. Thanks krautmaster for bringing this potential issue to light! Car stops great, definitely a noticeable change from the stock BR5 setup.
 
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