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‘74 Duster 360 4M
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So I

So I am actually finally on the last step which is bleeding the brakes. I finally got my transmission pan sorted out and a few other things.

I tried to bleed my brakes the other night and I was getting barely any fluid using the compressor tool so you dont have to have someone pumping the brakes. I had my buddy pump it a few times and then hold it down and then I cracked it open and got some fluid through.

I will admit that I left the brake lines unconnected overnight and then reconnected everything the next morning so a good amount of fluid probably drained out and I am not sure if the reservoir was totally empty or not because I didnt check before refilling it. But I am guessing I have a fair amount of air in my system. I am going to try manually bleeding the brakes with the help of my buddy since that seemed to move fluid last night for the few tries I gave it before calling it a night.

Anyways any advice on how to get the majority of the air out of the brake lines? I sat there with the compressor tool running getting very small amounts of fluid . Ive read about the abs or master cylinder getting filled with air and being a big fix.
I can't be much help, not sure why you weren't getting fluid unless you still had the pedal depressed to keep the leaks down while swapping calipers.

I will say that if you let things open to gravity bleed and got air you ABS pump, you will probably need some type of tool or scanner to get it bled. I know AlphOBD has the ability, but not sure what else. Someone else will have to help with that, I've never done it myself. Don't think it is huge, just need something that will communicate with the ABS module and get it to cycle or something.
 

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dodge charger 2013 5.7L Pursuit
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I can't be much help, not sure why you weren't getting fluid unless you still had the pedal depressed to keep the leaks down while swapping calipers.

I will say that if you let things open to gravity bleed and got air you ABS pump, you will probably need some type of tool or scanner to get it bled. I know AlphOBD has the ability, but not sure what else. Someone else will have to help with that, I've never done it myself. Don't think it is huge, just need something that will communicate with the ABS module and get it to cycle or something.
Ok gotcha thanks!

I also just realized that I may have messed up with the rear calipers. It was pointed ou to me that I obviously have the bleed screw under the banjo bolt. I will attach a picture. I swear I followed the calipers that were labeled for right side and left side. Its possible I messed it all up though. So my question is the bleed screw is meant to be above the banjo bolt correct? And can I just swap the two screws without having to swap the calipers around on each rear wheel? So can I just simply take out the banjo bolt and bleeder screw and put the bleeder up top and banjo down below if thats how its mean to be.
 

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‘74 Duster 360 4M
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Ok gotcha thanks!

I also just realized that I may have messed up with the rear calipers. It was pointed ou to me that I obviously have the bleed screw under the banjo bolt. I will attach a picture. I swear I followed the calipers that were labeled for right side and left side. Its possible I messed it all up though. So my question is the bleed screw is meant to be above the banjo bolt correct? And can I just swap the two screws without having to swap the calipers around on each rear wheel? So can I just simply take out the banjo bolt and bleeder screw and put the bleeder up top and banjo down below if thats how its mean to be.
The bleeder must be at the highest point otherwise air will be trapped in the caliper. You could remove the caliper, put a block of wood between the pads and hold the caliper in a position that would do that, but can't imagine that being the best way to do it.

I kind of doubt the machining is the same between the holes for the bleeder and the banjo bolt, but who knows. The casting is most likely universal and the only difference is how it is machined. I would grab one of your old calipers and pop the bleeder out of it and take a look. Should be similar enough to make a guess at if you could do it on the BR9 calipers.
 

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dodge charger 2013 5.7L Pursuit
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The bleeder must be at the highest point otherwise air will be trapped in the caliper. You could remove the caliper, put a block of wood between the pads and hold the caliper in a position that would do that, but can't imagine that being the best way to do it.

I kind of doubt the machining is the same between the holes for the bleeder and the banjo bolt, but who knows. The casting is most likely universal and the only difference is how it is machined. I would grab one of your old calipers and pop the bleeder out of it and take a look. Should be similar enough to make a guess at if you could do it on the BR9 calipers.
Alrighty thanks. I think I most likely made the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides after painting them. Oh well. I will probably just swap them back over and re torque everything. Not the biggest deal ever. Anyways once im done with that and ready to bleed the brakes again , you said I should gravity bleed them? so just crack all of them at the same time until they start dripping them bleed them normally? sound correct? Again thanks for all the help.
 

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‘74 Duster 360 4M
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33 Posts
Alrighty thanks. I think I most likely made the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides after painting them. Oh well. I will probably just swap them back over and re torque everything. Not the biggest deal ever. Anyways once im done with that and ready to bleed the brakes again , you said I should gravity bleed them? so just crack all of them at the same time until they start dripping them bleed them normally? sound correct? Again thanks for all the help.
Not suggesting you should gravity bleed them, just say it sounded like that's what you did by leaving things open overnight. Big danger there is if you let the master cylinder reservoir run dry, because then you get to start over and maybe even tow it to a shop to get the brakes bled (if you don't have a way to bleed the ABS pump).

Far as I understand, only way to get air out of the ABS pump is to make the system cycle it, and you need a scanner of some sort to do that. So, no scanner equals a trip to a shop.

I don't think gravity bleeding them is any different than using some pump or a friend. You still need to do them one at a time with the rest of them closed. If you have other lines open, you could just be pulling air into them rather than getting air out of the system.

Glad to help, wish I could do more.
 

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dodge charger 2013 5.7L Pursuit
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Hey just wanted to let everyone know I got it all done last week and it has been driving good and stops hard. So seems its all finished and no leaks. I ended up being able to bleed the brakes the old fashion way by pumping the brakes after I corrected my upside down rear calipers. Then I used the tablet code reader to cycle the abs a few times and bingo she was all good. I still don't exactly know why the vaccum bleeder didn't work but oh well. Thanks for all the help ! after breaking in the new pads it stops super hard.
 

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2013 R/T
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They will get better as the seat in.
 
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