[DionR]

So I

So I am actually finally on the last step which is bleeding the brakes. I finally got my transmission pan sorted out and a few other things.

I tried to bleed my brakes the other night and I was getting barely any fluid using the compressor tool so you dont have to have someone pumping the brakes. I had my buddy pump it a few times and then hold it down and then I cracked it open and got some fluid through.

I will admit that I left the brake lines unconnected overnight and then reconnected everything the next morning so a good amount of fluid probably drained out and I am not sure if the reservoir was totally empty or not because I didnt check before refilling it. But I am guessing I have a fair amount of air in my system. I am going to try manually bleeding the brakes with the help of my buddy since that seemed to move fluid last night for the few tries I gave it before calling it a night.

Anyways any advice on how to get the majority of the air out of the brake lines? I sat there with the compressor tool running getting very small amounts of fluid . Ive read about the abs or master cylinder getting filled with air and being a big fix.

I can't be much help, not sure why you weren't getting fluid unless you still had the pedal depressed to keep the leaks down while swapping calipers.

I will say that if you let things open to gravity bleed and got air you ABS pump, you will probably need some type of tool or scanner to get it bled. I know AlphOBD has the ability, but not sure what else. Someone else will have to help with that, I've never done it myself. Don't think it is huge, just need something that will communicate with the ABS module and get it to cycle or something.

 

[jack lamberson]

I can't be much help, not sure why you weren't getting fluid unless you still had the pedal depressed to keep the leaks down while swapping calipers.

I will say that if you let things open to gravity bleed and got air you ABS pump, you will probably need some type of tool or scanner to get it bled. I know AlphOBD has the ability, but not sure what else. Someone else will have to help with that, I've never done it myself. Don't think it is huge, just need something that will communicate with the ABS module and get it to cycle or something.

Ok gotcha thanks!

I also just realized that I may have messed up with the rear calipers. It was pointed ou to me that I obviously have the bleed screw under the banjo bolt. I will attach a picture. I swear I followed the calipers that were labeled for right side and left side. Its possible I messed it all up though. So my question is the bleed screw is meant to be above the banjo bolt correct? And can I just swap the two screws without having to swap the calipers around on each rear wheel? So can I just simply take out the banjo bolt and bleeder screw and put the bleeder up top and banjo down below if thats how its mean to be.

 

[DionR]

Ok gotcha thanks!

I also just realized that I may have messed up with the rear calipers. It was pointed ou to me that I obviously have the bleed screw under the banjo bolt. I will attach a picture. I swear I followed the calipers that were labeled for right side and left side. Its possible I messed it all up though. So my question is the bleed screw is meant to be above the banjo bolt correct? And can I just swap the two screws without having to swap the calipers around on each rear wheel? So can I just simply take out the banjo bolt and bleeder screw and put the bleeder up top and banjo down below if thats how its mean to be.

The bleeder must be at the highest point otherwise air will be trapped in the caliper. You could remove the caliper, put a block of wood between the pads and hold the caliper in a position that would do that, but can't imagine that being the best way to do it.

I kind of doubt the machining is the same between the holes for the bleeder and the banjo bolt, but who knows. The casting is most likely universal and the only difference is how it is machined. I would grab one of your old calipers and pop the bleeder out of it and take a look. Should be similar enough to make a guess at if you could do it on the BR9 calipers.

 

[jack lamberson]

The bleeder must be at the highest point otherwise air will be trapped in the caliper. You could remove the caliper, put a block of wood between the pads and hold the caliper in a position that would do that, but can't imagine that being the best way to do it.

I kind of doubt the machining is the same between the holes for the bleeder and the banjo bolt, but who knows. The casting is most likely universal and the only difference is how it is machined. I would grab one of your old calipers and pop the bleeder out of it and take a look. Should be similar enough to make a guess at if you could do it on the BR9 calipers.

Alrighty thanks. I think I most likely made the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides after painting them. Oh well. I will probably just swap them back over and re torque everything. Not the biggest deal ever. Anyways once im done with that and ready to bleed the brakes again , you said I should gravity bleed them? so just crack all of them at the same time until they start dripping them bleed them normally? sound correct? Again thanks for all the help.

 

[DionR]

Alrighty thanks. I think I most likely made the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides after painting them. Oh well. I will probably just swap them back over and re torque everything. Not the biggest deal ever. Anyways once im done with that and ready to bleed the brakes again , you said I should gravity bleed them? so just crack all of them at the same time until they start dripping them bleed them normally? sound correct? Again thanks for all the help.

Not suggesting you should gravity bleed them, just say it sounded like that's what you did by leaving things open overnight. Big danger there is if you let the master cylinder reservoir run dry, because then you get to start over and maybe even tow it to a shop to get the brakes bled (if you don't have a way to bleed the ABS pump).

Far as I understand, only way to get air out of the ABS pump is to make the system cycle it, and you need a scanner of some sort to do that. So, no scanner equals a trip to a shop.

I don't think gravity bleeding them is any different than using some pump or a friend. You still need to do them one at a time with the rest of them closed. If you have other lines open, you could just be pulling air into them rather than getting air out of the system.

Glad to help, wish I could do more.

 

[jack lamberson]

Hey just wanted to let everyone know I got it all done last week and it has been driving good and stops hard. So seems its all finished and no leaks. I ended up being able to bleed the brakes the old fashion way by pumping the brakes after I corrected my upside down rear calipers. Then I used the tablet code reader to cycle the abs a few times and bingo she was all good. I still don't exactly know why the vaccum bleeder didn't work but oh well. Thanks for all the help ! after breaking in the new pads it stops super hard.

 

[georgiapi]

They will get better as the seat in.

 

[td1042k]

I finally got around to swapping out the akebono oem front semi metallic pads and the rear powerstop "top cop" z37 garbage pads(never buying powerstop again) for a set of the Performance Friction carbon metallic pads yesterday morning. All I have to say is WOW. The initial bite is so good(smooth and progressive) and the pads just don't fade unless they are absolutely scorching hot. Break in was a breeze and they seem to get better every time I drive the car. I didn't do any rotor surface prep as they ran straight without any braking vibration, and the new PFC pads seemed to do a great job of scrubbing off the old friction material left over, especially on the rears. I'm sure it will take some more seating of the brakes to work down to a "clean surface" since the pads are slightly contaminated with the old friction material but as it is, a day later the brakes feel awesome. I'm a huge fan of the full contact area on both front and rear without any pad material chopped off. The rear rotors look visibly larger now that the pads contact 95% of the rotor face vs 75% that every other pad offers. Braking feels much more balanced now without as much front end dive under stiff braking. I'll have to pick up a spare set sometime soon to keep in case PFC stops making them(especially the rears). I was able to get both front and rear pads brand new shipped for under $120 on eBay.

 

[georgiapi]

Nice, I find the OE BR9 semi-metallic better then the Top Cop Z37's also. I have the OE BR9 setup all the way around now and not complaining but PFC will be next for sure.
Can you edit your post with the part numbers?

 

[13Daytona1625]

I ditched the top cop pads and went with PFC all corners.

 

[td1042k]

These are the ones:

1766.20 rear
1767.20 front

O'Reilly carries these pads but at I think more than double what I paid.

 

[13Daytona1625]

Performance Friction® - Carbon Metallic™ Brake Pads

Dodge Charger 2015, Carbon Metallic™ Brake Pads by Performance Friction®.

www.carid.com

 

[Mr.Texas6]

Deleted.

 

[Thirtybird]

I had just posted that I probably wasn't going to make changes, but the idea of the BR9 brakes on a car this heavy has me a bit interested - I don't want slotted/drilled high metallic combos - I want something quiet and low dust and isn't going to rust after a day of rain. I read most of the pages here and compared things to the discontinued kit as far as what was included...

Does the attached look reasonable? The price seems pretty low compared to what I was reading at the beginning, but that's probably down to choices in parts. Is this a working list and a sane choice for a 2014 RT AWD? It wasn't 100% clear that I would need hoses, but they're in there because I'd rather have them and not need them than need them and not have them. Worst cast I'm out $45 That was the only part that I couldn't find one manufacturer who offered a left and a right

I appreciate anyone spending time to offer their insight, thank you.

 

[DionR]

I had just posted that I probably wasn't going to make changes, but the idea of the BR9 brakes on a car this heavy has me a bit interested - I don't want slotted/drilled high metallic combos - I want something quiet and low dust and isn't going to rust after a day of rain. I read most of the pages here and compared things to the discontinued kit as far as what was included...

Does the attached look reasonable? The price seems pretty low compared to what I was reading at the beginning, but that's probably down to choices in parts. Is this a working list and a sane choice for a 2014 RT AWD? It wasn't 100% clear that I would need hoses, but they're in there because I'd rather have them and not need them than need them and not have them. Worst cast I'm out $45 That was the only part that I couldn't find one manufacturer who offered a left and a right

I appreciate anyone spending time to offer their insight, thank you.

I was going to say that the calipers were wrong, but after looking them up myself they do say they are cast iron and the picture makes it look like they are Akebono calipers. Based on what I've heard, doesn't guarantee they are right, but seems more reasonable than I first thought.

I would be a little nervous about the Centric brake hose since it doesn't say AWD. You could end up with a RWD hose. Since the RWD calipers mount to the rear of the spindle and the AWD calipers are to the front, the hoses are different length. Might work anyway, since (in theory) you would get one that is too long rather than too short, but I would watch for rubbing and getting caught on something while turning. It does seem to have a similar shape to the other hose that specifies AWD, so maybe you are good.

One other suggestion, might do a search on parts using a 2015 or later. The 2014 MY was split between the smaller 13.8 front brake setup and the 14.5" for the Pursuit cars.

Can't think of anything you are missing. But I'm no expert either.

I had planned to do this to my Challenger and paint the calipers and abutments to match the STP calipers that came on the car. With the smooth rotors, I expected few would even notice that the brakes were upgrades.

 

[13Daytona1625]

EMERGENCY
Need new caliper bracket from front and guide pins but cannot find any part numbers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

Guide pin is seized.

 

[that_guy]

EMERGENCY
Need new caliper bracket from front and guide pins but cannot find any part numbers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

Autozone had the slide pins a couple months ago here. I asked for 2015 pursuit slide pins. I got two packs per side as one of the slide pins has the spot for that stupid rubber isolator that got stuck for me.

Rock auto shows the caliper brackets separate as well with mopar part numbers. Casting marks look the same as mine.

 

[13Daytona1625]

Sweet! Ty! Autozone had the pins.

 

[13Daytona1625]

Autozone had the slide pins a couple months ago here. I asked for 2015 pursuit slide pins. I got two packs per side as one of the slide pins has the spot for that stupid rubber isolator that got stuck for me.

View attachment 298751



Rock auto shows the caliper brackets separate as well with mopar part numbers. Casting marks look the same as mine.

View attachment 298752

How did the isolated get stuck?

 

[that_guy]

How did the isolated get stuck?

The rubber seems to have swelled up and made the whole pin get stuck and made the caliper get hung up. I've never had a car with these isolators before, so not sure if it's common or not. Either way that day I just put in the pin without the isolator, then eventually went and got new pins from autozone.