Charger Forums banner

701 - 720 of 807 Posts

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
The banjo bolts on the Stoptech lines I used on the rears stretched at the fluid pass through hole, if over torqued, and not by much. They are made of a soft SS.
I used a torque wrench to spec and when it clicked I felt something give. The pass through hole went from round to elongated.

In Marietta GA there is an industrial hydraulic supply company that is set up to make lines and does so for the performance community there. He does not do online business. Local walk in only. He made my lines.
I run Russell lines on my truck and they are more robust.
From here on out if Russell's are not available I'm staying with OE.
I am not sure I could tell the difference. Sure, perhaps knowing I'm getting all the response I can, but for the trouble of it, next time I'm not going to bother.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
The banjo bolts on the Stoptech lines I used on the rears stretched at the fluid pass through hole, if over torqued, and not by much. They are made of a soft SS.
I used a torque wrench to spec and when it clicked I felt something give. The pass through hole went from round to elongated.

In Marietta GA there is an industrial hydraulic supply company that is set up to make lines and does so for the performance community there. He does not do online business. Local walk in only. He made my lines.
I run Russell lines on my truck and they are more robust.
From here on out if Russell's are not available I'm staying with OE.
I am not sure I could tell the difference. Sure, perhaps knowing I'm getting all the response I can, but for the trouble of it, next time I'm not going to bother.
Man, I appreciate all that info! Do you think you could get the spec on those lines for me?

I'm def not buying StopTech anything after what I've read in the last 20-30 minutes. I've had (at least) 15 sets of Goodridge SS lines and I've never, ever, ever had an issue with those. Those don't seem to exist for our cars..so that's out.

Seems like I'm going to have to have custom lines made and that I should probably be selling them, to fix this stupid issue that many people have faced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,852 Posts
Discussion Starter #703
pretty sure all Mopars banjos are the same (the ones from the BR3/BR5/BR9 were all the same thread and length)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
The russell lines worked for me. They were on the long side for the AWD front caliper placement, but that's probably about right for the RWD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
The russell lines worked for me. They were on the long side for the AWD front caliper placement, but that's probably about right for the RWD.
I'll go look into those also then, the few places I saw didn't have them until 7/6-7/20 :/

I honestly wouldn't care as much if I wasn't about to be throwing a whole-lotta power through the motor. I'm really concerned about being able to consistently stop this beast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
Installed the PFC pads today and phew it was a hot one. After the 90 min install I was drenched! Lol. Hopefully they’re as good as you say Kraut!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: POWERMAN

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
Nice! I was expecting a HUGE improvement with the BR9 upgrade and wasn’t that happy with em bc it still felt the same. Hopefully these pads help.
 

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
I always include in my BR9 posts that after bedding just drive them normally or a couple hundred miles and you will feel them come to you.
I was like you at 1st, no fade but braking didn't excite me, but they came in.
Everything needs to face off and equalize.
I think the stability control freaks out a little bit at the new forces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,852 Posts
Discussion Starter #710 (Edited)
I like mine, even though they are dirty as hell, but with the new grey wheels it isn't very noticable. (the dust looked terrible on the black wheels). It is going to take a bit until you get the layer from the ceramic pads burned off: mine got really sticky/grabby while that was happening, but then smoothed out after it was all gone and the new pads put down their own layer. These pads don't have that mushy feeling when cold that the Z37s had, and they get better every time you drive, and when fully broken in they stop like crazy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Nice! I was expecting a HUGE improvement with the BR9 upgrade and wasn’t that happy with em bc it still felt the same. Hopefully these pads help.
I hear you on that! It's not day and night, but it's a big difference.

Unfortunately, I was expecting a "huge" difference also when I did the conversion..but I also did a 397 stroker and twins..so, that could've been my bad ;)
 

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
Going to the Black Nasty MOPAR OE pads this weekend if the rear pads arrive for said.

The front rotors are from the Big Brake Kit, the rears are Raybestos Police rotors.
The Power Stop Z37 Top Cop Pads are low and the StopTech Slotted Cryo rotors have been taking some high speed braking torture and finally spotted up pretty good. They did hold out lonbger then any other brake setup I ever ran.

I pretty much wash my ride often so the black dust will be acquired in short sessions.

I'll be doing a show and tell soon.


295750
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I hated the Z37 pads on mine. The front pads had backing plates that were too short and rattled in the calipers over bumps. They were too mushy when cold and when they were heated up the grip was jittery. Could have been a break in issue but I have never had this kind of problem with other pads.

I swapped in the OE akebono pads from the Mopar BBK and everything is MUCH better. I still need to change out the rear but for now it's all good.
 

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
Interesting. They were good on mine. Not as grippy cold but great under the gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,852 Posts
Discussion Starter #715
I hated the Z37 pads on mine. The front pads had backing plates that were too short and rattled in the calipers over bumps. They were too mushy when cold and when they were heated up the grip was jittery. Could have been a break in issue but I have never had this kind of problem with other pads.

I swapped in the OE akebono pads from the Mopar BBK and everything is MUCH better. I still need to change out the rear but for now it's all good.
I didn't care for the cold performance of the Z37, fine when warm but I like them firm all the time. My Performance Friction pads are working very nicely.
 

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
1-1/2 years on the Z37 pads and Stop Tech Cryo slotted rotors they finally spotted and I swapped to Smoothies with the MOPAR Big Brake Kit Rotors, Pads, and Raybestos Police Rears and Police Pads. AKA Black Nasty Semi-Metallic's all around.

Pretty much any kind of firm braking sounded off almost like shoulder sleep ripples, this combined with the slotted rotor hum had me addressing it.
You can see marks on the pads that align where the hot spots are on the rotors. Yeh, I take her up there and have had to avoid speed detection a few times in a sudden fashion.


295796

The pads are not even 1/2 worn. The rotors show no wear to speak of. If not for the spotting and hum they would still be in service.

295797

So today I did the Raybestos Severe Duty, Police Service, or Track Burnishing procedure.
I followed it to the letter and hope its worth it. It covers lots of miles and is a bit timely.
  • 8 Moderate stops from 40-10mph with 1/4 mile between each one.
  • 8 somewhat harder from 60-10mph with 1/2 mile between each one.
  • Drive 1.5 miles.
  • 5 hard but less than ABS activation from 80-20mph with 3/4 mile between each one.
  • Allow to cool 15 minutes parked or driving, I drove 15 minutes without applying the brakes.
The rotors look good to me, we shall see. I never had black dusters behind chrome wheels.

I made these woody ramps from planks I had cluttering the shop. I have rubber pads on the bottom and use them fo pre-jacking elevation to make getting the jack and spotting the points easier. Getting the jack under the rear is a pain.
They are high enough to change the oil.

295798
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,852 Posts
Discussion Starter #717 (Edited)
I like those ramps ! I have a set of the heavy duty black plastic ones but don't ever seem to use them (they slide too much).

My Z37 pads had a couple of hot/burnt spots on one set... I'm not a fan of pure ceramic pads any longer.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
Thanks, I'll be using them for bleeding to as the manual wants the car angled.

I loosened the parking brakes to get the new rotors on, couldn't set up the drag because of hearing the new pads so when they get settled I'll be back under there and bleed while I'm at it.
I like to bleed after swapping hardware out if not only to just get the fluid changed at the calipers.
I once bled a vehicle with brass wheel cylinders and it came out green from the patina. This sent me a message the fluid at the binders in the line doesn't refresh, so I refresh it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,852 Posts
Discussion Starter #719
Service manual says to have the back end 5" higher than the front when you bleed them, so I always take the wheels off so I can get the front end down low with the back end up high.
 

·
Registered
2013 R/T
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
Got em all bled, no air but 4oz of brown before running clear.

I'm enjoying the silent braking again, no hot spot hum and no slotted hum either.
Also no more cold soft pedal, like krautmaster describes, big toe braking for everyday braking.
I'm taking it easy the first few hundred miles but can already tell they get better and better as they continue to face off to each other.

The rear coated rotors highlight the available rotor MOPAR didn't go after. I'll go with performance frictions next time.

295907


295908


Comes In Handy With This

295909
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nuwanda
701 - 720 of 807 Posts
Top