Have a 2013 im trying to locate all the parts to do the rear upgrade. Is it just the pursuit package im looking at to get the parts off of? Found the caliper mounting bracket with caliper for $67.99 plus core at oreilleys and R1 has the pursuit rotors and pads on sale for $119 rigjt now. Is this the right setup? Thanks
The Caliper you found for $68 is most likely the older BR8 package used from 2010 ish to mid 2014. In late 2014 and up they switched to the BR 9. They both use the same large, thick 13.8" rotor on the rear but completely different calipers, carriers and pads.
The BR 8 uses the same rear caliper as the R/T, but with a much larger bracket and thinner pads to fit over the thicker 13.8" rotor.
The BR9 is a whole different animal and VERY hard to find: larger Iron calipers and big pads (#1766)
When you are searching for parts use 2013 Pursuit for the BR8 parts, and a 2016 Pursuit for the BR9 .
Ok because I was asked if I wanted the aluminum or cast calipers. Luckily I havent purchased the calipers yet. So I need the 16+ pursuit caliper and brackets. Are the rotors the same or do I need the ones off a 16+ as well?
A slightly different question.....
Krautmaster, I have read several of your brake posts before. You really know your stuff.
I was feeling a front end vibration at 24,000 miles. Stock brakes, rotors and pads...2018 Charger SXT......Service mgr said I had "hot spots" on the front rotors. He said the warranty did not cover that and I paid the dealer $150 plus, to get the rotors slightly turned. It got rid of the vibration.
To replace the rotors will cost $475. NOW that I know the front rotors are not under warranty, I thought about buying some cross drilled rotors to keep them cooler and avoid hot spots.....should be a lot less than $475.
Would changing non-dealer rotors void some OTHER part of the warranty?
----------------------------
Stock brakes seem to work reliably, maybe I don't make sudden stops and have never locked up the tires.
Can you make a recommendation of cross drilled rotors, or should I just hit Ebay? Any thing to be avoided?
----------------------------
If I change rotors, I thought about getting better pads. There seem to be 3 grades of pads. Dodge Stock pads don't
get brake dust all over the wheels and I would like to keep them clean if possible. Any recommendations, or anything to avoid as to better pads?
Ok because I was asked if I wanted the aluminum or cast calipers. Luckily I havent purchased the calipers yet. So I need the 16+ pursuit caliper and brackets. Are the rotors the same or do I need the ones off a 16+ as well?
A slightly different question.....
Krautmaster, I have read several of your brake posts before. You really know your stuff.
I was feeling a front end vibration at 24,000 miles. Stock brakes, rotors and pads...2018 Charger SXT......Service mgr said I had "hot spots" on the front rotors. He said the warranty did not cover that and I paid the dealer $150 plus, to get the rotors slightly turned. It got rid of the vibration.
To replace the rotors will cost $475. NOW that I know the front rotors are not under warranty, I thought about buying some cross drilled rotors to keep them cooler and avoid hot spots.....should be a lot less than $475.
Would changing non-dealer rotors void some OTHER part of the warranty?
----------------------------
Stock brakes seem to work reliably, maybe I don't make sudden stops and have never locked up the tires.
Can you make a recommendation of cross drilled rotors, or should I just hit Ebay? Any thing to be avoided?
----------------------------
If I change rotors, I thought about getting better pads. There seem to be 3 grades of pads. Dodge Stock pads don't
get brake dust all over the wheels and I would like to keep them clean if possible. Any recommendations, or anything to avoid as to better pads?
The hot spots are called "cementite" and can't really be turned out of a rotor. They are caused by the rotor getting too hot because they are not large enough to dissipate the heat (see pic of my BR3 rotors with cementite sitting next to the massive BR9 police rotors).
I use Power Stop rotors on all four of my cars, they make a kit for yours (but I would not use their Z23 pads, they don't work well when cold, find some Raybestos Element 3 Enhanced Hybrid Technology pads: Assuming you have the 12.6" front rotors with single piston calipers they are part # EHT1056AH (front) & EHT 1057H (rear). I use these on 3 of the 4 cars and love them..they bite hard and don't make a mess.
Amazing.
When I looked at how much the rotors were "turned", it looked like they had been cleaned with sandpaper.
There was almost no evidence of any machining.
Is it possible that cementite can be sanded away?
I don't make hard enough stops to spend money for that super police conversion that you mention.
I may take your suggestion about which pads to swap.
Thanks, man.
To further avoid hot spots make sure you clean the mating surfaces of the rotors and hubs to help support a true spin. Factory spec maximum is less than 0.002" being 0.0015, 0.0013 for Brembos.
If you drive spirited or prone to bringing her down hard say when a radar detector goes off at an inopportune moment you will want to consider indicating them to make sure. Do you remember when you generated your hot spots? Were you giving them the call of duty?
FWIW I have indicated my Charger BR9 four corners and the fronts on my Silverado and they all came in fine with no changes. Which would be removing and rotating on the hub and checking again or returning them. Or finding a hub bearing starting to go bad. Sigh..... I know. So for the most part, with good hubs and quality rotors.............
When rotor run-out is spec to a degree under a given load it passes the pad harder on one part and according to how much and the quality of the pad and rotor materials how prone it is to making the hot spots. And to how much heat the particular braking event generated.
Don't forget the quality of the braking system in the mix. I have put my BR9 system to the question several times and so far so good.
I crossed referenced a 2016 and up charger and came back with the same part # as the 13 charger. If anyone is looking for the caliper with the bracket, this seems like a really economical way to get the BR9 rear brake setup for less than just the brackets alone. If I'm wrong then please someone let me know because I'm about to place an order for these. Thanks
I crossed referenced a 2016 and up charger and came back with the same part # as the 13 charger. If anyone is looking for the caliper with the bracket, this seems like a really economical way to get the BR9 rear brake setup for less than just the brackets alone. If I'm wrong then please someone let me know because I'm about to place an order for these. Thanks
Not a direct answer/reply to your post....Most braking comes from the front.......putting bigger brakes on the back
gets points at a car show, but is not related very much to stopping the car. But thanks for looking up the info
to save people money.
To further avoid hot spots make sure you clean the mating surfaces of the rotors and hubs to help support a true spin. Factory spec maximum is less than 0.002" being 0.0015, 0.0013 for Brembos.
If you drive spirited or prone to bringing her down hard say when a radar detector goes off at an inopportune moment you will want to consider indicating them to make sure. Do you remember when you generated your hot spots? Were you giving them the call of duty?
FWIW I have indicated my Charger BR9 four corners and the fronts on my Silverado and they all came in fine with no changes. Which would be removing and rotating on the hub and checking again or returning them. Or finding a hub bearing starting to go bad. Sigh..... I know. So for the most part, with good hubs and quality rotors.............
When rotor run-out is spec to a degree under a given load it passes the pad harder on one part and according to how much and the quality of the pad and rotor materials how prone it is to making the hot spots. And to how much heat the particular braking event generated.
Don't forget the quality of the braking system in the mix. I have put my BR9 system to the question several times and so far so good.
My front is already upgraded with drilled and slotted. It now nose dives when I hit the brakes really hard. Trying to even it out a little more os all I'm doing.
I crossed referenced a 2016 and up charger and came back with the same part # as the 13 charger. If anyone is looking for the caliper with the bracket, this seems like a really economical way to get the BR9 rear brake setup for less than just the brackets alone. If I'm wrong then please someone let me know because I'm about to place an order for these. Thanks
That part looks to be the real deal BR9 cast iron caliper-- grab them if they really are available (before I got mine I ordered them 3 or four times only to find they were out of stock, so Good luck!)!
That part looks to be the real deal BR9 cast iron caliper-- grab them if they really are available (before I got mine I ordered them 3 or four times only to find they were out of stock, so Good luck!)!
I found someone selling a 6.1 intake manifold with 6.4 injectors and throttle body. Just wondering if this would work on my car and what else I would need. He is selling for 500$.
Haven't seen any recent (as in past 6 or 7 years) threads regarding installing the police (I also believe it can be found on 6.4 cars and Durangos/Grand Cherokees) oil cooler on an R/T. Finding the part numbers for the correct hoses was a pain and fortunately I got all of the right ones on the...
What's the difference between the Charger and Challenger rear axle/differential? The Challengers have so many other optional ratios available, if they were swappable it would open a lot of possibilities. If they are different, does anyone know what else needs swapped to make one work? Such as...
www.powerstop.com
Stygian_RT · updated 
Marlonbell96 · updated 
that_guy · updated 
dodgebob68 · updated 
Kolten · updated 
