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The RWD ones def need upgrading but I believe I read the AWD stock ones work fine.
 

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Tried the stock ones, when you turn the wheel they hit the strut and in a major way. View attachment 290075

The stainless lines I got were Russell brand. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-694060 The fronts on these definitely weren't meant for an AWD. They were about 4" longer than the old line. After lots of trial and error I ended up having to make a bracket to hold the excess line up closer to the caliper so that nothing was rubbing or being bent too far at full lock. I measured those front lines at 23-24" in length.


Here's the bracket I made that goes under the slide pin bolt and holds the line out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #524 (Edited)
Using a little computer trickery, I have made a couple pics that show what the brake lines for RWD BR9 will look like when used on AWD...looks like the should work, just reverse them like you do with the calipers (drivers side part gets put on the passenger side). You will have to remove the metal bracket that bolts to the knuckle on the RWD models, then route the rubber hose part so that it doesn't hit anything. Looks like it will work better than the stock AWD hoses (I hope)

LEFT 62832484AA (put on passenger side)
RIGHT 68257661AA (put on drivers side)
 

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I have a set of these BR9 front hoses with the brackets already removed (to put on my custom braided lines). The ABS cable clips have also been removed.

I used them for maybe a month. They came in the MOPAR big brake kit. I'll ship them to someone for $40.00. PayPal
 

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I got to do a max test of my setup last night. After midnight on I75 sparse traffic I had a mustang closing in on my rear. Normally I don't waste my gas getting beat by these much lighter vehicles, but we had plenty of room so I went into sport mode.

Already doing 90, me having 2.65:1 gears he's about 3 lengths back and puts his signal on which I used as the green light downshifting and flooring it I didn't leave him but he didn't start to overtake me as easy as I expected, no idea of his build. I'm Dyno-Tuned.

I think over 130 he may have been running out of stones when Waze reported a trap and a split second later the R3 Radar detector started gently alerting.
This being the notorious Cherokee County I75 speed trap located in a left hand bend before the HWY 92 exit I brought her down from 135+ to 70 FAST.
WoW, my 1st non test real world stomp and she was impressive. No pull to either side or notable nose dive, the slots were humming, I think I heard the tires threatening to protest and I had plenty of pedal left.

What I am most happy about other than the distance and over the lack of fade was no uneven material transfer hot spots generated.

This car loves the 2.65 gears on the super slab, I love them. I dont do city street duels. The cars build makes the car feel very good at speed.
 

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Finally got the BR9 upgrade done, this forum thread contained all the critical information. For my 2014 RT AWD the Mopar parts used ended up being (Fronts):
68245095AA Caliper (R)
68245094AA Caliper (L)
68245117AA Caliper Brakets (2)
68248466AA Brake Line R ($36.90)
68248467AA Brake Line L ($118.00) interesting part is it looks almost identical to the R hose at way more money.
5191267AA left rear caliper
5191268AA right rear caliper
5191291AA rear caliber brackets (2)
Old rear brake hoses work fine.
Did the Power Stop Rotors. Took a chance and coated the face with high temp clear engine enamel to see if i could keep the salt in Ohio from wiping out the finish in the first winter (we'll see if it helps at all).
Top cop pads.
Ended up polishing the faces of the caliber and brackets to make the finish a little nicer. IMG_0805.jpg IMG_0913.jpg IMG_0807.jpg IMG_0909.jpg Brake hose 2.jpg brake hose 1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #528
Finally got the BR9 upgrade done, this forum thread contained all the critical information. For my 2014 RT AWD the Mopar parts used ended up being:
68245095AA Caliper (R)
68245094AA Caliper (L)
68245117AA Caliper Brakets (2)
68248466AA Brake Line R ($36.90)
68248467AA Brake Line L ($118.00) interesting part is it looks identical to the R hose at way more money.
Did the Power Stop Rotors
Top cop pads.
Ended up polishing the faces of the caliber and brackets to make the finish a little nicer.
How does it stop? The grip generally gets better with time as the pads wear in.
 

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How does it stop? The grip generally gets better with time as the pads wear in.
I did the pad setting procedure in the Top Cop box and it feels like it still hasn't set in yet. I took the retaining tabs off the caliber slide clips as you suggested. I am hoping the peddle firms up with time. Having said that it definitely stops better than the old brakes for sure.
 

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How is your pedal feel? I found that mine was crap initially (used my power and vacuum bleeders) because there was still some air that I needed to use a scan tool (cycles the abs) to get out.
 

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The pedal is bit better than stock but i may have to bleed them again. I did the manual method with cycling the ABS between each pump of the pedal. I didn't get much air after letting them gravity fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #532
The hoses in your picture are not the "correct" ones, but if they work all is good...take a pic of the hoses attached to the caliper and the main line so we can see how they are routed--it is always good to have other part options than the standard ones.
 

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The hoses in your picture are not the "correct" ones, but if they work all is good...take a pic of the hoses attached to the caliper and the main line so we can see how they are routed--it is always good to have other part options than the standard ones.
I added photos of the hoses with the wheel from stop to stop in both directions. The part number was a Mopar AWD Pursuit part. I made them work, they don't rub.
 

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Discussion Starter #534
I added photos of the hoses with the wheel from stop to stop in both directions. The part number was a Mopar AWD Pursuit part. I made them work, they don't rub.
They obviously work, but I wonder if they would work better if you swapped them from side to side and put the hook at the top, or am I crazy???
 

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They obviously work, but I wonder if they would work better if you swapped them from side to side and put the hook at the top, or am I crazy???
I originally tried to put them on the "right way" but there is no recess for the hook so they won't lay flat. Had to reverse the sides to get it to work.
 

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I think there might be some air in the system. Will a power bleeder work without cycling the ABS? I also noticed i can hear a bit of pad drag, probably from the spring clips being removed, has anyone else noticed this.
 

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Power bleeding still left air in the system for me. Cycling the abs got it out.
 

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This is what I use to bleed brakes.
I'm more of a one man band when I come to car repair so tools that help me do it myself are what I look for.

 

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This is what I use to bleed brakes.
I'm more of a one man band when I come to car repair so tools that help me do it myself are what I look for.

I have a vacuum bleeder like that too that I used. I was sucking with the vacuum bleeder while the system was pressurized with the power bleeder, and still had to cycle the abs to get the air out.
 

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I use a Motive pressure bleeder. I hope it's not in the master cylinder. They are fun to bench bleed. Air has a way of being hard to get totally out. I just finished doing battle with my truck master cylinder.
 
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