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These are pretty cool products. Mine arrived today. I strongly hope to get them in the car by LX&B. Pictures will of course be posted.
One of the nice things about the latching switches is that they're usable both open and closed. What I mean is that they can be wired so that with the button "out", the circuit is open (off) and then button "in" the circuit closes and is on. Alternately you can reverse that, so button out is on and button in is off. Also, the LEDs are set up so they can be always-on or they activate with the switch as a status indicator. Little touches that might not be used 90% of the time, but are just the thing when someone needs it.
These are a bit more expensive than a lot of other alternatives, but they look classy. Two thumbs up at this stage.
My project involved three buttons for my halos. I've got AAC halos in my headlights, tail lights, and gauge cluster. I had Hoffman Group etch my buttons to match the colours of the various rings, with DASH being blue (I have UV gauge halos), TAIL being red, and FRONT being white.
The buttons themselves seem decently made. Unfortunately this pic is a bit blurry, but it conveys the idea. I got "domed" latching buttons. Once nice thing is that the throw for the latching is fairly deep, so you won't accidentally turn on (or off) whatever you have running on these. It takes some deliberate effort to toggle them.
There are comprehensive instructions and sample wiring diagrams on Hoffman's web site, so I won't rehash in depth. There are five contacts. A group of three and then one offset at each end. In this picture, the left one is LED (-) and the right one is LED (+). Of the three in the middle, the left in my install is input (+), the middle is output (+) and the right is unused. I brought a ground wire to the LED (-) and looped it back out to daisy-chain to the other switches. I brought 12V+ in to the input contact. Then I soldered an output AND a loop onto the output contact. The other end of the loop went to the LED (+) contact. Thus, when the button is on, the LED lights up. When the button is off, the LED is off.
I cleaned up and made sure everything was nicely isolated. You can see two (+) and two (-) wires here. The loop is hidden under the tape. Again, the two (-) wires were purely so I could daisy chain to the next switch. I want to be able to pull out any one switch if I ever need to.
Drill some holes, slot in the buttons, do some wiring, snap it all shut. I should comment that I got 16mm switches and used a 5/8" drill bit. The fit was perfect. I bought a bastard file to bore out the hole a bit as 5/8" corresponds to about 15.8mm but I absolutely didn't need to.
Front and Tail.
All in all, at $30 each these switches are pricey but they were exactly what I wanted and I'm very glad I bought them. I'd do it again. They seem to be well-constructed and as I noted in a prior post in this thread, they're designed to be flexible in installation. These aren't crappy switches.
I do have to admit that the brightness of the white switch is such that during daylight it's not immediately obvious it's lit. This happens to match the halos, amusingly. Indoor and at night there's no problem. The blue and red are much more obvious even in bright sunlight.
I realize that of all of Hoffman's product line I bought probably the lowest-end offerings, but if these are typical of their standards, I'd trust them with other things like their door kits.
Two thumbs up.
And with this install complete, my modding to-do list is finally empty (for now), 14 hours before I hit the road for LX&B. My thanks to Kris, and Hoffman Group for their part in making my ride hopefully show-worthy.